Sonydaze
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Everything posted by Sonydaze
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Located in Canada but have quality clicker boards: http://simards.com/simona.html
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Your profile doesn't tell where you are, making it more difficult for suggestions to what might be near you. I sharpen my 6" and 8" splitter blades with a Tormek sharpening system. I use the planer blade jig with the splitter blade mounted on an aluminum plate to be able to fit it into the jig. This works well for me.
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Some detailed pictures would help a lot in people being able to give you better suggestions.
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The bobbin appears to be in correctly. I would try not going through all three holes in the two thread guides, thread them only using two holes. It is difficult to judge the scale, but the thread looks heavy for 92 poly, I have had a mislabeled cone of thread before. Perhaps try a larger needle?
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When you fully raise the presser foot, does the top thread pull through fairly easily?
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....having the lid come off a gallon of contact cement while you are vigorously shaking it makes for an 'interesting' clean up. One of those working too late at night moments.
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Thanks, you just gave me an idea.. I think I still have a trigger gauge for gunsmithing. It measures pull from an ounce to several pounds. It should be easy to measure thread tension with it.
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Seeing how well they sell before investing in equipment/dies is a good idea. I don'y buy dies until a new design proves itself. Look at the widths of your cardboard templates and cut strips of leather to match, cut the strips to length of the other dimension of the template, then finish any cutouts or trimming of the pieces. That's what I try to do with any shape that is conducive.
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Sewing machines: 3 - Sunstar 590BL, 2 - Directron MSB1000, Artisan Toro 3200, Juki LK-1900HS, Juki DDL-8500-7, Juki DDL-5550N, Pfaff 138-6/21, Pfaff 546-H3, Pfaff 335-H3, Adler 221-76, Singer 144WVS33, Singer 29K-51, Siruba 747B
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Bump! I still have some. All of folks that have bought them have been impressed with the quality.
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Or update with a servo motor.
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Are all the sewing machines 220 volt?
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Tandy carries some exotic leathers (like stingray & snake). You also might try Lonsdale Leather in Vancouver. Although I doubt that their pricing will be favourable. If you add your location to your profile, it is easier for members to make good suggestions.
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Saying no to some jobs is profitable... now you can use that time to make some money.
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I sew for strength and rivet for looks. I don't trust any of the double capped rivets.
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If you are viewing what you do as a business, you need to get a realistic return. Materials, consumables and cost of space to work should be included at a profit in what you charge. Your time also needs to be profitable. In my opinion, starting out undercharging your clients, ends up with a client base that expects you to supply them at a loss.
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Hi Ferg, Just take the head off, Put cardboard over the table top and strap the whole unit (upright) to a pallet. Box the head and strap the box to the pallet under the table. I had one come that way from Los Angeles to Vancouver Island, no problem. I would call Fedex Ground for a shipping quote.
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Strap work - your dream setup with machinery ?
Sonydaze replied to Christine's topic in How Do I Do That?
With the kind of volume you have, both a power strap cutter and an edger would pay for themselves in time savings. I have both and could not imagine going back doing it by hand. If you are painting the edges, getting equipment to speed that up is also a good idea. Time to take the drudgery out of it and have more time for other things. -
Bump. Still some available.
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Sewing machine for up to 14oz of leather
Sonydaze replied to ClassicBlock's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
The advise to buy from a dealer is good advise. Especially if it is your first industrial sewing machine. Most people new to them will have a few problems that a good dealer is very valuable on getting you through them with minimum frustration and cost. -
UWE's 441 Table - Installation on an Artisan
Sonydaze replied to Sonydaze's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I hear you, with some arthritis creeping up on me, hunching over and dealing with the bobbin in the shadows was not fun. Now it is easy to see what I'm doing and without any non-consensual yoga. -
I was never happy with the table supplied with my Artisan Toro 3200 for several reasons. When I saw some of Uwe's table pictures last January, I talked to him about one. He looked into it and realized that the Artisan does not have the third hole midway up the cylinder arm for fastening his table to the machine (many other machines have this tapped hole). We talked more and I agreed to try mounting one.of his tables on my Artisan. He promptly shipped it and it was amazingly well packaged when it arrived. Right after that my spare time took a right turn until today and I was finally able to get it mounted: I mounted the table by the two screws by the presser feet (they went in easily), then I took a centering punch that fit the hole in the table where the third screw needed to be and tapped a centering mark into my cylinder arm. I took the table back off then drilled and tapped the cylinder arm for a 1/4 NC bolt. The casting was about 1/4" thick, it both drilled and tapped fairly easily. Next I put the table back on the machine now with the third screw (1/4" x 1" pan head) which nicely filled the counter sunk hole. It is nice and solid. Once I had gathered tools and bits, it probably took me less than 30 minutes to get it mounted. Pros: - Arrived very well packaged, not much chance having to return a table damaged in shipping. - Well made and very well thought out design. I think it has eliminated all of the the things I didn't like about the original table. - The magnetically held bobbin access plate is an ingenious improvement (vs. having to get your head under the table to change a bobbin). The plate comes out easily yet stays in place. - Oiling holes are still accessible. - It is a nice size and very solid. Con: The top edge of the table was a bit sharp and catchy. (A few minutes with a piece 180 grit sand paper readily fixed that.) Overall I am happy with the table and would do it again even having to drill and tap my cylinder arm. Notes: - You need a right angle drill or a right angle attachment on your drill to drill the hole. - An extra set of eyes to help keep the drill bit vertical is helpful. - Go slow as you drill through, there is a shaft about a 1/4" under the casting.
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I think using a fabric needle (pointed) will be necessary to keep the canvas from fraying. Pointed needles work okay on leather if it isn't too hard.
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7-8 oz. or 8-9 oz. strap or bridle leather should work fine unless you want other than black or brown. If you want other colours then you are looking at similar weight vegitan leather and dying/finishing it yourself. To pursue conversations on these items, it might be a good idea to ask for access to the adult section of the forum and post there.