Sonydaze

In Italy you could try: Magic Sfea

It may be having difficulty with the 207 thread. Try sewing the top with 138 thread and see if it still does it?

I recently bought out what was left of a belt maker for the equipment. I have some belt buckles that I don't need. They are made in Italy and would work great on quality belts, bags or whatever you like. 30 mm wide, solid brass or 35mm wide, brushed nickle US$60.00 per 100 US$37.50 per 50 US$22.50 per 25 Paypal accepted. Shipping not included.

A hot foil press press will emboss with or without the foil. To get a good imprint in chrome tan, heat is your friend. There are companies that can make your logo up in a magnesium die.

No good deed will go unpunished... I think Wis' post could be taken more than one way. Over time I have read many of his posts, they have always been polite, respectful and meant to help.. not hurt. I think he very much deserves the benefit of the doubt on this bit of ambiguity. Wis, your contributions to this forum are valuable, especially for people newer to using industrial machines. I hope you will stay and continue to be part of this great forum.

$1800 sounds like a lot for a phase converter, I would do some shopping. Another alternative to changing the motor is to power it with a inverter, their cost is fairly reasonable. Hitachi inverters

By turning the cutting edge back a bit, you can reduce how much it bevels. However to loosen the blades and adjust them is prolly about the same work as changing them? If you only have one set of blades it is a good trick.

I can't speak about the one that does all four edges at once but have owned the lesser expensive one for a couple of years. It is simple to use and works well. I think the only difference is that I have to pull the belt or strap through twice. Not a big difference unless you are doing a lot of volume. You can pull a hide length belt though in a few seconds.

I use a lot of double sided tape. Two sided tape is readily available at many places. Just Google it. Don't buy the foam type as it is too thick. NAFTA note: USA enjoys a trade surplus in trading with Canada but I don't think Canada makes much double sided tape.

The stone is to take the wire edge off the drum after sharpening it, they usually are on a wood handle. You can try scrubbing it with Comet (pot cleaner) or WD40. I think though it is likely a better idea to get a new one with a handle and keep your fingers further from the sharp edge.

You can't trust glue for the long haul. Glue and stitch. ....or (as suggested above) buy a belt..

You very likely need a walking foot (unison) feed machine. Depending on what you are making either a table top or cylinder arm machine. I watch Craigslist for machines. For a dealer, I have done well with Marc at Mason Sewing in Vancouver, you might check to see if he has anything used.

104 rivets are not exclusive to anybody. Just figure out the length you need for the job you are doing and buy them where ever they are convenient.

You might also talk to Charles Hardtke Leather

Yes they are...and very likely better quality. Tandy snaps can be problematic.

To smooth the backside of my machine sewn stitches, I have a scrap piece of sole bend that I put over the stitches and hammer on. The sole bend is hard enough to flatten the stitches and prevents marking the leather with the hammer.

I think that the difference is often only a different paint and a different label. I would follow the good advise of Wiz. I have had a circuit board and a positioner fail over time (I have several machines changed to servo motors). They were a minimal inconvenience because I deal with a really good dealer. Also look for a plugin on the motor or controller for powering a light... they are convenient. Some motors have them and some don't.

Looks interesting but some more info would be helpful... where is it located, size/weight, manufacturer & model weight of leathers it can handle?

One other thing, putting screws in quickly generates a lot of heat.. which causes the galling. Don't use power tools to screw them in, use a screw driver or ratchet and go slow. Pop rivets are easy if you can put them in from the opposite of the stud. Lol I've done a lot of work on boats and I've learned this the hard way a couple too many times. If you have silicone cauking on the threads it is even more prone to seizing up.

Stainless steel screws are not nearly as strong as steel screws. The stainless screws may be galling and seizing to the steel. Once they 'freeze', you usually can't get them in or out. I would try drilling and tapping as well as using an anti-seize compound. One other thing you may consider is pop riveting the snap studs on.

Thank you, Tom. That was very interesting. It answered several questions.

I use mostly chrome tan leathers and do my edging dry.

I bought one after reading Nigel's recommendation. It dulled quickly and now I consider it a waste of money. Perhaps he was given better steel to test?

New and unused from Artisan. Roller guide and mounting plate. I bought my Artisan 3200 slightly used... they couldn't find the roller guide so I ordered one (US$100 + shipping). Sure enough they found it a couple of days after the new one was shipped. US$80.00 via Paypal. Includes shipping in Canada or continental USA.

I charge them the same unless there is quantity involved. Clients that purchase quantity reduce my expense of gaining that sales volume... I share the saving. Weaver is doing that, I buy more at once and get a better deal from them. If my business too often involved long conversations to make an small sale, I would have take that into consideration in my pricing and or my terms. If I had to raise my prices to maintain a reasonable profit while carrying the costs of less efficient clients, then the more efficient clients in reality would be stuck subsidizing them unless I could come up with a policy that defined them and offered prices accordingly. Because I'm in Canada, I have to phone in my orders to Weaver as their website is not yet set up for export sales. Because my orders are repetitious, I don't have questions and read off a list with correct stock numbers/quantities, so it only takes me a few minutes to spend $3000 - $5000. I buy a lot of my hardware in case lots. This is efficient business for Weaver and I expect to pay less than someone ordering a couple of hundred dollars of small quantity items. If someone is actually in business, not just a hobby for profit, the $1200 per year isn't that large of a hurdle. Worst to worst find someone in your area and buy together to create the volume.