King's X

Welcome to the forum!!

Hell, George Hurst uses a cuticle cutter for his edges sometimes, so anything is bound to work? Give it a try and let us know.

Nope, I was talking about Rancid, but I believe it was a Tandy manager in California that told me the Olive Oil would turn that way, but in reading the threads here, it appears that this would be wrong. So, correction for myself and other reading, the NFO has a possibility of turning Rancid and not OLO. Good to know. That is why I am still a member, much to learn! Thanks.

Very nice work!!

Welcome to the forum. Best of luck on your new endeavor!!

Welcome to the forum and thank you for your service.

I was wondering if ANYONE had a nice old floral pattern for a basic rifle scabbard. I am looking at constructing one and I cannot draw worth stuff, so I place myself on the mercy of the masters out there. I do not mind paying for copying and mailing. If you have more than one even better so I can compare pick the best one. This is for a recently turned 12 year old. Appreciate you!

Super shene or neat lac sprayed on. It worked for me the second time around. I did it with sheep wool the first time and the came right off. The also have acrylic sealer at hobby lobby, joanns, etc. Good luck

Thanks for the comments. The purse adorned a really nice pattern from Ron Ross. I am finishing the straps now. The portfolio as corner flowers from Chan Geer's collection. The basketweave and corner designs are my idea. I developed a cattle brand kinda of design using the customer's initials. The floral pattern on the money clip is just the Tandy design that comes with the kit. I hope to put a little "hidepounder" inside the portfolio pocket, but I doubt it will turn out as nice. I just have to try it. Anyways......

I like the look, good job.

Yea, but I like my pace right now. How's the holster cell holder? I hope it worked out. Thanks for the kind words.

I just finished tooling this portfolio last night at 1am. It has been in the design phase for the last month. It is a commission from a co-worker. I figure I would show it off before I put the finish on. Second, is a money spring wallet that I made for myself. I have finished it or sewn it, but the tooling is done. The third one is my first attempt at my favorite "Bruce J" bag. Yea, I know I have to work on it. I have some changes that I will make on the next one, but this one is done. And finally, a floral wallet back I completed a while back. The finish was two coats of brushed on satin sheet and tan antique gel. Tell me what you think? Thanks. Sorry, too large of photographs. Here is the floral wallet.

I must have gotten the other side of that hide. I took the piece and placed it in my bathtub with cold water and left it there until all of the bubble stopped coming up. I think most toolers will tell you about 5 minutes, but this piece actually took almost 16 minutes before all the bubbles stop. I then set it aside and allow it to return to a natural color. It was still hard to cut, so I stopped and recased it using a forumla I got from the members(here) using Listerine (Thanks Marlon), a teaspoon of neatsfoot oil, several drops of dish detergent (thanks Joanna) and cold water. I cased it good until it stopped sucking the water. I placed it it a plastic trash bag, but I didn't tie it off, I just folded over the end and placed it on my granite piece over night. The next day, I took the leather piece out of the bag and let the leather sit until it turned back to the natural color. I also turned the trash bag inside out to allow it to dry for fear that mold would begin to grow. I could tell that the leather cut better and tooled nice with good burnish. Unfortunately, if you search here, I ended up having some major problems with the finishing. I just threw it away and chucked it as an experience. I ended up taking the leather hide back since I paid more that I thought it was worth and the Tandy Manager was nice enough to give me a credit and allow for an upgrade piece. I think you are right, it is just the process of the tanning. No offense to Tandy because I buy other things there, but I am moving on Herman Oak at $99 a side fo 6-7 oz.

I have used both. What I found is that Olive Oil (IMO) makes every leather piece I have done it on is softer and more pilable. You have to let it sit for a day or so to let it even out. With neatsfoot oil, I have not been too happy with lately, but I really think it is the crappy leather I get at Tandy personally. I can definately see a different in the feel for me. I have heard that Ricin (sp) is definately a problem with olive oil, but I am still here even though it will kill? I recently read something where Bill Gromer talked about using olive oil and he applies it on both side of the tooled leather. Extra Virgin, of course. Good luck.

That's pretty, JBird. really nice.

King's X Cuz, when I tool something and make a mistake, I can invoke King's X and do it over with no penalty or ridicule from the spousal unit and/or children. Nice thread.....

It never hurts to just try it. Good luck

check the resource area. if not, you will get enough information here. Zack & White Siegal of California Hide Crafter Springfield Leather Thoroughbred Leather Wichett & Craig Herman Oak Best of luck and welcome to the forum.

Man (no pund intended), I hope you are okay. I got a few questions for you. My brother scissormedic has been kind enough to offer to make me a larger handle maul. What are you using for the top plate? Is there any weight inside the poly portion? Thanks. Get well fast!

I got my awl from Hide Crafters, which was very affordable. I have the cuts on my fingers still healing from its use this weekend. Bruce you came through again! I will flatten one side of my shaft, I like that. As for the thread, I was going to suggest you contact Rawhide for the number to his supplier of the thread, but it looks like you have been given it already. Good luck.

Quick question....are you allowing the appropriate time for drying? I allow my super shene to dry at least 24-48 hours before I re-apply. I don't get that raised color issue. As for the satin shene, I didn't like it as a block out. The super works best for me. But I know what you are saying about the lifting because the Tan Kote does this to me everytime I use it?? I must admit that I have used the hi-liter though I thought about it recently. good luck.

Holly: I had this come up recently with five roper wallets that a friend wanted. I did a tool version and also ordered a laser version and presented both to my friend. I must admit that the tooled version came out nice, but the laser version had much more detail. Give Ms. Brenda a shout (she is member here, recently joined) she does nothing but laser work and has gotten into leather stamps. But with me, I have taken her out of her comfort zone and she is willing to venture into other areas of leather. check out her website and at least get a quote from her if you decide to check with other vendors. FYI: I am not associated with this company other than as a satisfied customer. Good luck www.lasergiftcreations.com info@lasergiftcreations.com

Just wanted to let you know that Hide Crafters will be holding a two day Leather Embossing class at their store in Fort Worth the first weekend of May. The project will be the American Bald Eagle. The cost of the class is $50. Several of us are going, thought I would put it out there for others that maybe interested. Later.

I love your lining. Very nice stamping. Good job. As a customer I would guessimate anywhere from $65-$85 with a closer look maybe higher. I would have Kevin King who is member here or some other like Bruce Johnson look at this for a better quote. I am sure there are way more wallet makers here that could chime in. Good Luck!