dikman

Man, the planets really aligned for you!! That is a good buy, as JLS said should handle up to #138 thread/23 needle. For what you paid for the Rex I'd keep it (if you've got the room). Now just try and stop looking for bargains!

My latest servo (overdue delivery but hopefully any day now) has a 4-button control unit. It's a long shot, but I'll try and see if there's any correlation to yours.

I found, much to my annoyance, that many of the options/settings on my two-button servo were disabled. No idea why.

I suggest you start a separate thread asking for info on the feet it uses. If you're lucky they might be the same as one of the Singer models.

Not really big enough, in my opinion, particularly if you're going to try and get a clutch motor to crawl. I tried various combinations of speed reduction, using a clutch motor, when I got my first machine but I could not get it to go slow enough (or control it!). So I bought a servo and made a speed reducer - much better. I didn't hesitate when I bought a couple more machines and ordered servos straight away. By all means try it with the clutch motor, but don't expect to to be able to sew stitch-by-stitch.

By George, I think he's got it! Looks good.

Those "crucial parts" aren't necessary to run the machine, they're simply there to meet the manufacturer's legal safety obligations. Unless you're really concerned (or paranoid about safety) I wouldn't worry about them. Maybe you could try a rag dampened with WD40 to clean it? Personally, I'd try and clean as much from the bobbin case as possible without dismantling it - unless you're very mechanically minded and know what you're doing! As for the feet, you could grind them flat or try filling the grooves with JBWeld. Kwok Hing is one supplier of feet for some Pfaff machines. Sewing speed, perhaps consider fitting a speed reducer?

My suggestion is to try it first with the stock handwheel/pulley. If you find it's not slow enough then either fit a speed reducer (commercial or make your own) or a 7"-8" pulley on the head. The main thing is to measure the shaft and find one to match that diameter, usually 1/2" but measure it with a set of calipers to be sure.

To go "superslow" you'll still need a reducer or the larger pulley on the head unit. That setup BattleAx made will work with a servo too, of course. Just an idea of what can be done. By the way, it's the middle of the day here on the bottom of the world, how come all you chaps are still awake?

You can replace the clutch motor pulley with a smaller one - but it still won't step slowly like you want. You're right, first thing to do is get a servo. As you say, the machine cost so little that another $100 is nothing. You should be able to find a 2" pulley on ebay, as bikermutt said.

Great deal for $50!!!! That servo should be fine, but if you want to go real slow you'll need to fit a speed reducer of some sort. The servo probably has a 3" pulley so replace that with a 2". Best thing to do is try it first with the servo and see if it works ok for you. Belt size, that will probably be a bit of trial and error to get the right size. I set mine up and then wrapped a piece of rope around the pulleys and tied it off with cable ties, this gave me a pretty good idea of what size I needed. I'm not familiar with the machine but I would say it's designed to use #69 thread with a size 16 or 18 needle. It may handle #138 thread, which will need size 22/23 needle. I'm sure someone will join in who knows more about the machine. Oil. Normally you'd only put a drop or two down those holes every few hours of use, but you'll need to check the machine and see if there's any oil on the moving parts first. Depending what was used before it could be a bit gummed up.

Actually, they will work in leather (although if it's too thick or hard they may stick coming out!) and should work in lighter garment leather, but in general you'll want leather point needles, particularly for veg tan. It's always handy to have an assortment of needle types though, just in case.

Search the site for "speed reducers", basically a pulley system to slow things down (and increases torque). You can build your own if you're mechanically inclined or there are a couple of styles sold by vendors who advertise on this site. There is another option and that is to replace the pulley on the head with a larger one (7" or 8" is probably the optimal).

Did you say it's breaking on the upstroke???

That looks very nice.

Thanks plinker, obviously not a clutch motor then.

Yeah, ok, I sort of asked for that I guess. I was referring to the apparently peculiar way it appears to be connected......where, for example, is the speed control? It has me intrigued.

For anyone interested in Western gun leather that book can be considered as the "go to" for information pertaining to the subject! The story goes that the early Hollywood westerns used original/traditional holsters but the movie makers soon realised that they needed a gimmick, thus the Buscadero was born. As anyone who has carried a revolver will tell you, having a low-slung holster tied down to the leg is not very practical for anything other than standing (and maybe walking). Arguably, the most comfortable carry is a crossdraw with the holster riding high and to the front (as shown in many old photos). Some of the more recent Westerns appear to be striving for a more accurate presentation and are tending to show this style of gun carry, getting away from the Buscadero. Most on here tend towards the more traditional style (i.e. loop over the belt) albeit with some variations to suit specific needs.

Ok, so we sort of have a model number range, that's good, but I'm more interested in why it appears to have a clutch (?) motor apparently attached. Any more photos, plinker?

Maybe it's been repainted, which could account for the lack of labels?

JBWeld should work for that little job, try and roughen up the slot a bit and clean with acetone to make sure there's no oil contamination. Heck, I've got JBWeld holding a fitting inside the crankcase of my bike and it works fine.

Looks like a Consew 206RB. Do a search for the manual, you should be able to find one to download. Basically, it falls into the category of a medium-weight upholstery machine and are very nice machines. Normally would use #69 thread but should handle #138, max thickness under the feet is 3/8". It will sew belts up to that thickness but don't expect to do holsters with it. The motor is a pretty generic clutch motor. If you're new to using an industrial sewing machine and want to sew leather (which is probably why you're here) then you might want to consider changing it for a servo motor, as clutch motors are fast and require a lot of practice to sew slowly with them.

It looks like a slightly weird setup. That looks like a clutch motor mounted behind and you can just see a belt (black) going to the large pulley. The smaller pulley then has a belt (brown, presumably leather) connecting the crank wheel, BUT I can't see any obvious way of controlling the speed of the motor. If it's connected like it appears, then the motor is going to drive the large handwheel and the pedal while operating the machine.

I suggest you do more searching on Eastwood's holster, GuyNC5, there's quite a lot of info about it (it's just a matter of finding it!). He used the same belt/holster combo for many of his films and it was made by Andy Anderson. The holster is rough-side out and was likely natural colour. The belt had a slight notch (recess?) where the holster sat to prevent the holster from sliding around on the belt, the holster also had wings behind the belt for stability and was angled backward slightly. The "Gunfighter" stitching on the belt can be a bit of a pain to get right.

I agree with Bajatacoma, those photos really prove nothing. If you look at many of the photos in Packing Iron, for example, it's obvious that they are staged studio shots, which I would say is the case here. Wearing guns that low is entirely impractical in the real world, particularly where horse riding is concerned!