dikman

At least the trip was worthwhile! Those machines should keep you busy while you get used to them. The 206's are nice machines.

It's a direct-drive unit, so I would assume that all the electronics are mounted in that housing attached to the head and shouldn't need to be removed? Gottaknow (Eric) is probably the only one who could clarify this.

LeatheryPalm, unfortunately you're up against the same brick wall that many have discovered - the search for the mythical one-machine-that-can-do- it-all. Once you start talking about holsters, particularly Old West holsters, you're entering the realms of heavy duty machines and big thread. You may get away with doing belts on a medium duty machine, but you're going to be restricted to lighter thread (a max. of #207 if you're lucky, most likely #138). If you're really stuck for space, then perhaps the new Cowboy Outlaw hand operated machine might be a better candidate? Doesn't need a motor or a special table or take up too much space.

Most any car grease should work fine, or white Lithium grease is often used on gears on lathes etc. As Matt said, it's not as if the gears are going to be under heavy/high pressure stress. I have an old model 201K (hand cranked, although I've fitted a spare motor that I had) and it's surprising what it can punch through, within reason. I only use the standard feet, but I don't see how you could turn one into an effective walking foot machine. I reckon if the foot you have fitted is working then I'd leave it at that (and save some money).

Looks like the new blends with the old quite well - but it looks a lot like bronze to me.

It's more to do with accessibility, any online programme that requires continuous access via the internet while using it (particularly to create things) is not something I'm attracted to as my internet connection can, and does, drop out erratically. For a while I was getting drop outs at 15 min intervals, which as you might imagine was extremely frustrating. It's better now, but still not 100% reliable (plus the speed occasionally slows, for no discernible reason). Consequently, if I'm going to be spending who knows how long to try and design something I prefer to be independent of the internet. As to Office, I have an old version (computer-based) which has served me well for years and continues to do so.

So it's an online programme, not standalone? Pity, I prefer standalone.

David, I like your solution. How about some construction details for the handwheel? In case anyone wants to try the same idea. I have a "mini metal lathe" which stopped working, the control board died. In the process I've learned a lot about the motors and controllers used in these lathes (usually an 80-90 volt DC motor and variable speed controller), and I reckon they could be used for a similar solution . The only problem with these motors is if they're run at slow speed for too long they can overheat, they need a suitable fan attached to the motor. The controllers, however, are very compact. Could have possibilities.

I think I'll stick to holsters (I can barely do them!). That croc looks amazing on the finished product, Brian.

Wiz, we used to refer to it as a "dark brown smell" when something electrical got cooked! As you say, it's quite a unique smell, and if we ever smelled it the immediate response was to cut the power (if possible).

Does the Seiko come with a servo?

Uwe, of course, is quite right, when selling something you can put any price you like on it BUT in the end it's only worth what someone's prepared to pay. I have the earlier model Seiko and it's a great machine, in fact it's the main machine I now use. If the one you mentioned has a servo then the price probably isn't too bad (as long as it's not worn out). If it's got a clutch motor maybe not quite such a good price, unless you're desperate for it. Are there any photos of it?

As Floyd said, you're referring to a needle positioning system. Servo motors often have it as an option, a sensing device that can be attached to the side of the handwheel. The motor can be set so that the needle stops down or up when you take your foot off the pedal. When I fitted a speed reducer my NPS wouldn't work due to the electronics not coping with the changed ratios caused by the extra pulleys in the drive train. Didn't bother me though as I found it a nuisance and unnecessary for slow speed sewing in leather.

Well, according to my maths (and I was never any good at maths!) you've got a 2:1 reduction, i.e. running at half the speed it was before. Once you can use that big pulley you should notice a big improvement.

Depends on the model. My 211G166 has reverse. The Seiko 8DBxxx machines fall into the same category you are looking at and have reverse, as do many of the Pfaffs. You may be creating a problem for yourself. If you definitely don't want to have to spend time fiddling with a machine then you have no option but to buy new. If you aren't in a hurry then something will likely turn up used eventually, that will suit your needs, but the odds that you will have to do some sort of work on it are probably pretty high. On the other hand, if you intend re-selling once you've finished your losses, if any, will be minimal re-selling a used machine.

It depends how you define "thick". I found this by searching here -

Gary, I reckon making them for trap, skeet etc would be much easier! It's finicky trying to get just the right amount of tension to stop them falling out and yet still make them easy to remove. The pocket method looks neater but is more work than just sewing a strip underneath. Riem, you could also use slightly elasticated webbing instead of leather, then you wouldn't need the strip underneath?

Low end torque on a clutch motor is only useful if you can learn to control the motor - I couldn't. The usual answer in this case is a servo, small motor pulley and speed reducer (works for me). I do agree, though, that if it's a very old motor you have to be careful as there could also be damage to the coil windings due to age. Only worth spending the time on if you're determined to try and keep everything original.

Yep, dowel or a couple of dummy shotgun rounds (I have dummy rounds made up for all my calibres). I made a paper pattern first (lot of trial-and-error) then use that to cut the pocket leather. The pocket is then stitched to the belt or slide. I then dye it, which makes it fairly supple, insert the dowels/shells and form it over them. To form the "valley" between the shells I lay a piece of dowel on the leather between the shells and lightly clamp it in place. When it's all dried the pockets keep their shape.

For cowboy action shooting you want them a bit loose in the loops, otherwise they don't like being pulled out in a hurry. The bottom strip is useful in that case. My last one I made using 2-shell pockets, that way you don't need the strip - but they're a bit more work to make.

I got my 335 to work with #138 - just. It's much happier with #69. I reckon it would be a struggle to use #207 myself.

4 mm is thick enough by itself for the belt unless you want it stiffer, in which case a thinner lining would do that. As for the aesthetics, some like a smooth lined finish, some like the rough finish, it all depends what the buyer wants. Are you going to dye it, as that will stiffen it a bit? It's going to be a fair bit of work keeping the stitch lines nice and straight if you're doing a lot of loops.

Can you post photos of the motor and where the wires are hanging out?

Are you talking about making a full belt or a slide?

It's not just the parts, if the screws are missing, well, I think we all know how difficult it is to find screws for sewing machines!!