dikman

I bought a set of punches similar to those. I took one look at the extreme bevel on the cutting edges and spent some time on a belt grinder putting a much longer taper on them. They work much better but it does make the cutting edge pretty thin.

Nothing wrong with hand stitching, it's something to be proud of. I've done four gunbelts, three with what's known as gunfighter stitching, and one dress belt with the same stitching. Yes, it does take a long time (!) and I doubt if you could justify it if you were doing it for a living - it only works if your time isn't taken into account. I also did them using one piece of thread, but it does take a fair bit of managing until you reach the half-way mark!! I also recently made a gunbelt from a single piece because I wanted one that was flexible, but in general I think two pieces glued back-to-back makes for a stronger belt. Whilst I now use a machine for gunbelts, holsters and cartridge slide/holders are still handstitched but I can't really charge for the time taken as it's my choice to do it that way. And yep, music helps when doing a belt.

Well done! Now that you've proven the concept works you can make a better pedal.(Maybe ).

Thanks Evo, looks like a bit of reading ahead of me. Basically a pretty simple process, but like all simple things the devil is in the detail.

Fair enough, Gigi, in your case it makes sense to use a VFD/3 phase motor setup. Should give you some flexibility.

Gigi, I'd try it without the speed control first, you may find that it's not necessary. As I mentioned I've been running my "original" one at full speed with no problems, and it looks like Sam is doing the same in his video.

I'm also interested in the process you used (just out of curiosity 'cos I don't know much about it).

Thanks Rej, I knew I'd seen one somewhere, that was it! I'm definitely going to make one now.

Sounds like you're having fun! . One thing I slowly learned, as you have, is that once you get into "old" sewing machines you can't treat them like modern machinery etc as the information can be difficult to find - if not impossible (as in the Singer SV machines, lots of models but virtually NO handbooks/manuals anywhere!). I also learned to treat the adjustments/settings in the manuals as merely a starting point. It takes some time to understand how the machine works and how the various bits interact, and I have tweaked all of my machines in various ways. Just because the manual specifies a particular setting (hook above needle eye, for example) doesn't mean that your machine must be set that way. A particular thread/needle combination may require a different setting to work. I consider it very important to have an understanding of the machines I have, not only from a maintenance viewpoint but so that I know I should be able to fix the inevitable problems that will arise (after all, these ARE old machines - bit like me, I guess ).

Yeah, I read the same thing about using aluminium, but I'm a bit curious (besides, I like turning ally on the lathe, it's real nice stuff to work with). My grinder-mounted burnisher is running at twice the speed (2850 rpm) but it actually does a good job at burnishing. It will be interesting to see which one does the better job.

You inspired me, bikermutt, so here ya go! The motor came with one of the sewing machines I bought - the WSV77, the head unit was fine but it had a home-made table, which I junked, and had this motor (1/4 HP, 1425 rpm, made in Canada and it's old!). I stripped the motor and found it had bushings, not bearings, but there was no slop in it so I oiled it up and away it went. A simple wooden mount so that it's portable and can be clamped to a bench/table along with a switch on the end. The burnisher is a made from a Blackwood tree that I cut down a few years ago, I had turned a few cylindrical pieces and put them aside to dry. This one had the least amount of splitting!! The motor shaft is 1/2" (so I can't use the burnishers that I made for my grinder) with a hole through it so I drilled the burnisher to fit the shaft and then drilled a crosshole and screwed a metalthread screw through the shaft hole and tapped into the wood. I'm also tempted to make a burnisher from aluminium, just to see how it would work. Maybe later, once I've cast a suitable cylinder.

Sticks, I doubt very much if a high-end fashion house is going to be very interested in a beautiful row of saddle stitches. It's doubtful if their customers would know the difference between a saddle stitch and a machine stitch anyway (or even care), so I don't think it's a valid comparison. Besides, I think we all know that much of the high end stuff is churned out of the same factories as the budget stuff, so little difference in the type of stitching (=machine). As for learning to stitch, like JLS I got the books, watched some youtube vids and away I went. It's not that hard once you understand the mechanics of it but like most things does require some practice. The main reason for using machines is one of economics - if it's your livelihood then it's all about getting a return for your time and hand stitching can make that almost impossible. I just made a couple of small knife sheaths and a couple of cartridge-loop strips (for Cowboy Action stuff). Because they are smallish items I chose to hand stitch but this was my choice and there's no way I can charge the guy for the extra time, but because it's just a hobby for me that doesn't matter. In my opinion the hand stitching looks much better anyway (and he'll no doubt show them to others so I want them looking good).

They're generally considered a pretty good machine for leather, no reverse stitching but that's no big deal. If it doesn't have a servo motor my suggestion is to fit one, it will tame the beast and make it much more enjoyable to use. If you don't have a manual/parts list they're available for download if you google them.

Now that sounds like a better deal!

I agree with your reasoning. Given the relatively high asking price for the used machines (and if they are too high then they won't sell) and the new cost (which, in the US, is quite reasonable) then I reckon a new Cowboy or equivalent is the way to go.

Looks like the equivalent to a Pfaff 335. Very useful machine, but not for holsters. I'm not up with US pricing on used machines, but I agree it seems pretty high. I'm guessing that it's been re-painted as there are no obvious Singer markings on it. Another thought, if they don't know the model number how can they do a proper service on it? Bit hard when you don't have a service manual for it.

I think Uwe modded a servo control setup to use a remote pedal, basically a mechanical mod. As TT said it would be a major job to try and get one of those domestic foot controls working with a servo. Like most things, anything is possible IF you throw enough money at it, but personally I wouldn't even consider it. Plus you'd certainly void any warranty by trying it. If you're good at DIY then it shouldn't be hard to make a suitable mechanical pedal control, however if DIY is not your thing then I'm afraid you're stuck with the normal pedal setup.

Zapee, thanks for asking this question. While I haven't had any problems with this happening (yet?) I hadn't realised how crucial the two thread guides are. I learned a lot from the answers in this post!

Yeah, most sewing machine pulleys tend to be 15mm. I had to sleeve one for a reducer I made so it shouldn't be too much of a problem. I drilled and tapped the pulley to take a couple of set screws 'cos I couldn't use the keyway to lock it in place.

I stand corrected then, Hockeymender. Mine goes into meltdown if I use a speed reducer . I have read of others having the same problem, but if yours works then it must depend on the servo brand?

My first servo came with a needle positioner, mainly 'cos it seemed like a good idea at the time! I set it up, tried it and didn't really like it. In fact, I found with a servo set up to sew slowly I don't need the positioner. Also, be aware that a needle positioner won't work if a speed reducer is fitted.

The smallest pulleys I've seen are 45 mm (that's what I use). I'd fit the smallest pulley I could to the motor, regardless of whether or not a reducer is fitted.

You made the same mistake I did at first reading - it's 200 spm, not rpm, which equals about 3 rpm. Quoting spm, however, is meaningless as it all depends on the size of the pulley fitted to the motor and the size of the handwheel pulley. If it's a misprint, and is supposed to be rpm, then it's not a very good motor as a digitally controlled servo should be able to get much lower than 200 rpm. Really need the manual to work out what they really mean.

Exactly which model servo are you looking at? My servos can be set to much slower than 200 rpm.

Tut tut, I saw a couple of paint runs! Seriously, a great job there, I reckon you can feel proud to have resurrected it.