dikman

As I mentioned earlier, the "SV" models appear to be a very big unknown. I have thus far been unable to find any paperwork for these models or to determine why they even made them, such is the complete lack of information concerning them. In my case I have a 111WSV77. As far as I can determine by looking at the parts list and manuals for various 111-class machines it appears to match up with a 111W153 (there are no differences that I can find) BUT none of the part numbers on the machine match the part numbers for the 151, 2, 3 or 5. I suppose I should add that it only cost me $150 Australian . The table was useless and it was powered by what looked like an old washing machine motor (!) but I consider it well worth the money just for the head unit.

Co-incidentally I just this morning fitted my roller foot to the Singer 331K4. The foot assembly appears to be identical to yours (except it's black so probably goes faster ). The hardest part was getting the foot bar out so that I could clean off the buildup of grunge on the bar - all these other bits fell out when I removed it! Took a bit of tweaking to get it adjusted right but looks like it should work ok. The feed dog and needle plate look the same as yours too.

Just got my parts in from Kunpeng, shipping was prompt and not too long, coming from China. Thanks again, Mr. McClain. 1.Edge guide foot set (3/16", but I think I might need the 1/8") for the 111/211. This was the only bit that caused a problem, the inner foot was too tight and would only push halfway up the shaft. I eased out the socket with a grinding bit in a Dremel, that fixed it. Smooth-bottom feet. 2.Standard foot set for 111/211. This came with a split inner foot, which is really what I wanted. I may cut off the right hand toe of the presser foot and convert it to a left-toe type to use with an edge guide. Smooth-bottom feet. 3.Roller wheel assembly for the 331. This came with the needle plate and feed dog (which is just as well as I didn't think of them!). I haven't fitted it yet as I need to raise the presser bar to give more clearance. I don't know if I really need this but it looked nice!!! 4.Standard foot set for the Pfaff 335. As far as I can tell this appears to be identical to the KwokHing set I bought, right down to the cross-hatching on the bottom of the feet. The reason I bought this is that I intend to cut off the right-hand toe so that I can get in closer to the edge guide. Pfaff bits aren't that common so it will be easier to convert this than try to find a left-toe set. The Pfaff set was a bit cheaper than KwokHing, but not much, but not paying extra for shipping is where the savings come in. All up I'm pretty happy with KunPeng and will probably get some more stuff from them later.

"Hello, my name is Red and I am a gamer". I was hoping you'd chime in, Red, and include a bit of "eye candy". Makes me want to make another set (just 'cos I can).

I'm not sure what you mean by "safe". If you spend time looking at various designs that are used for CAS you'll see that many are what I would call "minimalist" holsters, they have enough leather to hold the gun in place and that's about it! There are many excellent photos here from members of different designs, many of which probably meet your criteria. As for modifying the pattern you have, give it a try, there's no reason not to, just make the pattern out of cardboard and play around with shapes first. I started off with copying a Hunter brand holster that came with my revolvers (7 1/2" barrels). It worked, but I thought I could do better. My next pair were patterned after the Andy Andersen design he made for Steve McQueen in The Magnificent Seven - short holsters, made for 5 1/2" barrels, so that the barrels stick out past the ends with extended belt loops so the holsters sit lower (I don't like Buscadero rigs). Suits me much better. Essentially, I played around with cardboard, refining the shape until I had a design that fitted the gun and looked right to me. It's been said that you might end up buying/making three (or more) sets of holsters until you figure out what's right for you!! All part of the fun and learning process.

Kroil is another one of those products (along with Johnson Paste Wax and DuPont spray dry lube) that we can't get in Oz. Funnily enough, those last two products have a regular high "request rate" in various forums here. ATF, on the other hand, is easy to get as autos are quite common in Oz. There are many so-called "rust loosening/unseizing" products around and I tend to look up the MSDS whenever I come across one. Most of them are just various forms of light oils and distillates, nothing special in my opinion. You'd probably understand their makeup a bit (lot?) better than me, Mike.

In the meantime, have you tried hand stitching? Some of the items you mentioned are relatively small, so could be hand stitched, plus you can then say that they are handsewn (which, in my experience, inevitably impresses people no end ). I mainly use my machines for long runs around belt edges or long decorative stitching on belts. For everything else I'm doing (so far) I hand stitch. Mainly because I always seem to want to make "odd" things that don't lend themselves to machine sewing.

WD-40 has long been touted as the "do all" solution, and as Mike pointed out is pretty much universally available - but in reality its uses are limited! It displaces water (what it was designed to do), has limited lubricating properties, does nothing for rust prevention (it actually washes off if left in the rain!) and, in my experience, it's penetrating abilities aren't that good. Mike's warnings notwithstanding, the ATF-acetone mix has been mentioned on all sorts of forums as a very effective penetrating liquid for loosening stuck/rusted fittings.

If you can get a small cut-off wheel in a Dremel in there it may be possible to deepen/square up the screwdriver slot. Sometimes localised heat applied to the screwhead can also help to break the thread free (I use a Dremel butane torch that has a pinpoint flame). Or, as has been mentioned, twist a screwdriver while giving it sharp wacks with a hammer. Screws are often boogered like that by people using carpenters'-type screwdrivers, which aren't shaped correctly for machine screws. Same problem is often found on firearms.

What a fascinating machine, Rocky. I gather that the arm can be rotated (about 160 degrees or so)? Watching that video that Wiz posted reminds me of the old American adage - there's no replacement for cubic inches!! That machine is a brute, going through that thick sole like it was paper (and with thread resembling small rope!!). Even if the OP could modify a suitable machine by fitting the "horn" (mission impossible, I reckon) it would probably lack the brute force required to punch through sole leather and would still be limited in thread/needle size. It's not something I would even consider.

I think that sums it up pretty well. It's designed to enable the fitting of additional features, such as pneumatic operation and computer control. If you've got the money they might be nice to have but hardly necessary for most people's needs. That extra 1500Euros could buy a lot of leather, thread and needles!

Amazing! I love the "calibrated leather wedge" for adjusting the pressure - very technical!!

Looks like you're onto a good thing, pc.. Plus it sounds like that machine may be a better fit for what you're actually doing. I've made a few Western-style rigs/holsters and was a little disappointed at first when I realised than none of my machines were suitable for stitching the holsters (their capabilities are probably similar to the machine you're looking at) but then I figured I was better of hand stitching them anyway as it gives a stronger product and I feel that I have greater control over the process. The machines are great for the belts, however, which I found very time-consuming when hand stitching.

I'm with northmount, I reckon the needle is too small for T20 thread. I've been experimenting with my 335, trying to get it to sew T20 (138) thread and I finally got it working using a 140/22 needle.

Nice birthday present!! Wish someone would give me a pair.....

If it were me the Seiko would be first, if I had the money, however I'd have no qualms about the 206 as long as it's in good working condition. They're based on the Singer 111 series so bits and pieces (feet, bobbins etc) shouldn't be too hard to find. And old Singers just keep going...and going...and going...

Well, he is a saddlemaker.......

I'd like to add to what Wiz said re-needle positioners - if you're sewing slowly I don't reckon you'll need one. I tried one but didn't really like it, because I sew slow stopping where I want has never been an issue.

Brian, the thread arrived today, many thanks (but I wish you'd at least let me pay for the postage!). I loaded up the Pfaff and ran 12" or so of stitches down an old belt - no snagging, but I did get a lot of dropped stitches!! Oh well, I figured that might be easier to deal with than the snagging. I fiddled with the tension, but that had no effect. It was fine if I went very slow, but as soon as I picked up speed it became unreliable. Something I learned a long time ago (when fault-finding telephone exchanges!) was to listen to the rhythm of machinery when it's working. So, I listened to the mechanical "rattling" of the machine as it stitched, and could soon tell when it dropped stitches by the change in sound from the bobbin area. I then noticed that the bobbin drive shaft had a little bit of back and forth play in it and traced this to the top shaft bevel gears. Unlikely to be the problem, I think, but after a bit of stuffing around I managed to take up the slack, but I'm now wondering if the bobbin case has too much play in the race assembly. I'll have to experiment a bit more, but I'm having a rest at the moment (haven't been feeling too well for a while, gastro etc ).

I'm assuming we're talking a single holster if putting in a curve?

Well done, Dwight! I'm a great believer in using what's available (which is why I have all manner of "stuff" squirreled away!!). As for forgetting things, you're not alone there. I don't believe it's actually "forgetting" rather a case of trying to do more than one thing at a time and getting distracted. I wish I had a $ for the number of times I've walked into my shed, or a room, and thought "damn, now what did I come here for?!!!).

clintoo, I've bought three servos from China, two 500w and a 750w. I fitted a 500w to my Pfaff 335 and it has plenty of grunt, although I have also fitted a larger (8") pulley to the machine itself. If you can afford the 750w it probably makes sense to get it, but in all honesty the 500w will probably be more than adequate. I bought mine from Lishui Skyrit (on Aliexpress), mainly because they have a warehouse in Sydney and shipping was included, so instead of waiting weeks to get here from China it only took a few days! As for the price difference, it's no different to anything else that is imported and resold by another company here, there will always be markups!! If you look at their site, make sure that you tick the "ship from Australia" box. Oh, nearly forgot, they come standard with a 75mm pulley. I requested a smaller 45mm pulley when I placed the order but these had to be sent from China so took a bit longer to get here. (I've had no problems dealing with this company).

Clintoo, $400 for a Pfaff walking foot is pretty good (for Australia!). It looks a bit like a flat bed version of the 335 (to me at least). If the machine is working ok, and does what you want, then give serious thought to fitting a servo - it will tame the beast, so to speak.

Dani, if you lay the two hooks on top of each other you should be able to see what needs grinding. I used a Dremel with a thin cutting disc and gradually removed metal from the throat area at the base of the hook. Mine did exactly the same as you describe. This should show you where it needs opening up. It was a matter of trial and error, comparing the old and new, removing a bit of metal, trying the fit, then removing a bit more etc. (This is the original hook).

Thanks for the excellent site link, Mr. McClain. They have some great feet sets available for my machines, including the Pfaff, and even have a roller foot assembly that will fit my 331! looks like I'll be putting a shopping list together.