dikman

Glue? It should be the consistency of milk, like doc said, and runny. Are you sure the thinner is the right type for the paint? A quick search shows others having the same problem. It's a urethane finish so will likely need thinning quite a bit but the wrong thinner will certainly turn it "gluggy". Maybe try lacquer thinners? Funnily enough some have said they can spray it straight from the bottle. Perhaps the needle in the airbrush is too fine?

Unfortunately (for you) as kgg said you will need a 441-class machine to do those gunbelts and holsters. It's not just the ability to handle thicker thread - #277 minimum - but the sheer power to punch a heavy needle through the leather and the increased clearance under the feet that is needed. The only other option is a "one-armed- bandit" as has also been discussed.

In the end it sounds like it was a pretty easy and simple process (after all the talk about buffing and electrolysis ).

As mentioned, photos will help, particularly the foot pedal linkages and where they connect to each end.

While using up the last of my black shoe polish after re-heeling my wife's shoes I got to wondering about making some. I've made lots of assorted wax concoctions but it's always been the natural colour. So, would adding leather dye to the wax mix work? I figure someone on here surely must have tried it.

Your swivel knife cut lines are very smooth. Thanks for taking the time to post each step.

I have a couple of different handle sizes and an assortment of blades but I don't use them much. They are, however, very handy for fine work, as others have mentioned.

How about modifying the foot lift rod by replacing it (or most of it with a chain? It's pretty easy to make it adjustable by using a hook (I simply opened up a link on mine to make a hook).

What Bert said, clean, neat and functional.

It would certainly be easier if you had a machine designed to handle #207 thread. Most upholstery-class machines are, in general, designed to handle #69 although some can use #138. Anything above that is problematic. And it sounds like you WILL need a heavier-duty machine for your next stage - or hand-stitch it! You mention that thread is slipping between the tang and the needle plate locating slot? If we're talking about the same thing then something's definitely wrong as the thread shouldn't go anywhere near that slot.

If it's a gift, as Northmount said what is the person on the receiving end going to be making with it? And what is your budget?

Very nice job, looks great!

With a bit of modification I don't see why it shouldn't work. Reinforce the table top, possibly with an angle iron bar underneath, and the cross bar at the bottom may need to be lowered to place the pedals closer to the ground for comfort. I'd keep the machine as close to the right as possible to keep the weight over the table winding mechanism (I'm assuming that the total weight of your setup is within the load capability of the winder?).

I've noticed that the sewing machine collecting bug tends to bite people on here! Should keep you out of mischief for a while.

You're fitting a belt cover? The first thing most of us do is remove it (if it's fitted).

If that's a used machine it appears to be in very good condition.

As long as the cat likes the mods..........

Yep, you did a very nice job on those.

Nice. From the outside it looks to be in very good condition.

Looks great to me, yes, the handle is pretty "hefty" but given that it carries petanque balls it needs a bit of strength. It's not meant to be a ladies handbag.

Blood?

Read Wiz's sticky, it's THE starting point to understanding leather sewing machines. Note that if you want to make holsters with a sewing machine then that straight away puts you into the heavy machine class, usually a 441 clone.

I bought an open frame too because of the flexibility of sliding things under it, unfortunately I soon realised I needed to enclose it and use an exhaust system because of the fumes!!!!! Mine didn't come with software, normally I tend to find free software that generally works but in this case I ended up actually paying for Lightburn and consider it money well spent, it's an excellent piece of software for laser engravers with lots of user guides on youtube. These things have lots of creative potential for leatherworkers.

That's what I did, so I could move the lifter pedal to the left of the go pedal - but it took a bit of fabrication!!

If it uses brushes then there should hopefully be some sort of screw fitting where the brushes are mounted, there will be two on opposite sides of the motor housing.