dikman

I'm running a 550w on my 335, mind you I have a 45mm pulley on the motor and a 200mm on the head unit! No problems with power, it will go through whatever I can fit under the feet. Personally, I doubt if there's much difference between those two motors, judging by the brochure.

In my opinion metal linings might be of benefit for "fast draw" competitions, but other than that I can't see much need. All of the holsters I have made (I'm talking Western style here) have been made with two layers of leather and once they've been wet-formed they dry almost as hard as wood (as JLS implied) and tend to keep their shape. Making them with a metal liner is just another complication I can do without.

I agree with Constabulary re-#1. A reducer means the needle will move slower for the same effort on the pedal. I have a reducer and/or a larger pulley replacing the handwheel on all my machines.

Depends a bit on the servo as some appear to have better control than others. Regardless, a servo will be an instant improvement, fit a smaller (2") pulley on the motor and give it a try. If it's still not what you want then either fit a larger pulley in place of the handwheel or fit a reducer.

Got a photo?

Strange. I've always used a single pass and never had a problem with it "unravelling", even on long runs around a belt.

Could be something not tightened up.

Try this. I've also got a parts list but it's just over the posting limit. 111w152.pdf

Not just America, our manufacturing industry here in Australia is a mere shadow of what it once was, with no sign that it will ever come back. Once it's gone, it's gone.

Looks really useful - if you sew mattresses!

I think that says it all!

edwelld, what kgg said. I often get that same thing with what appears to be multiple threads coming up from the bobbin area, all I do is handwheel the pulley back and forth a little which releases the thread and it then just pulls out normally.

The Yamata appears to be a clone of the newer Pfaff 335 which means it has higher lift and should handle thicker thread. As it's the head only you will be up for a bit more money for a table, motor etc. Only problem with the Consew is it has a clutch motor (fortunately servo's aren't too expensive).

Don't sweat it, I tried to do the same thing - once.

That linked article is very misleading! It starts off showing a "proper" leather sewing machine and then promptly talks about what are simply domestic machines. The author appears to think that if it has the words "heavy duty" on it then it will work with leather. I wonder how many have been sucked in by this article?

I soon found that none of my spanners would fit in the gap (!!) so I had a thin flat spanner from who-knows-where and I filed out the "jaws" to fit the flats on the pulley. I have used it many times since.

Yep, my first thought too.

For what it's designed for it's not a bad little machine, but as Joe said, be prepared to spend a bit of time getting it to run nicely. They aren't intended to do long stitch runs as the bobbin is very small. If you don't have a patcher then it could be a useful, and cheap, addition but it is not intended to replace a "normal" machine, e.g. a flat bed or cylinder arm machine. It will get into places that they can't.

What type of needle are you using? It's generally recommended that for nylon etc a "standard" round point garment needle is best.

True, but the same thing can happen with a reducer, it's simply a different way to achieve the same result, i.e. slow down the machine.

There's nothing particularly revolutionary in that video, he makes it sound like some sort of industry conspiracy. Basically, sellers sell reducers, usually one of two types, which do the job so I doubt if they want to bother trying to explain to customers about fitting a large replacement pulley. This way they can leave the machine intact, so it is one less area that a customer can have problems with. Matt makes a couple of good points, but only two are really of any concern, imo. If the machine is under warranty you should probably take that into account, but there's no way that I can see that swapping to a larger pulley is going to damage the machine or the motor as long as the machine is used within its limitations. The most important one, though, is the question of safety, if you fit a large pulley and intend to do handwheeling make sure your foot is off the pedal before touching the wheel!!!! At the slow speeds most of us are looking for any "flywheel effect" is going to be irrelevant, besides which the weight of your pulley isn't likely to be that much more than the one you took off. I have fitted a quite heavy pulley on one of my machines and it works fine, I also have had no problems getting a 4:1 reduction using this method, and while it is fine with one servo with a different brand it wasn't good enough, so I fitted a reducer too and am getting 11:1 reduction. As for the timing, as Tom said as long as nothing is changed inside the machine doing this cannot affect the timing! Industrial machines are built to take lot of abuse and to keep working day in, day out under conditions that we are unlikely to subject them to. Slowing them down, whether with a reducer or a large pulley, is going to significantly reduce the wear on a machine. In short, you are worrying unnecessarily.

Umm, the printer needs a Gcode file to print. You need a slicer programme to convert the .STL to Gcode, it also sets the print parameters. I use Slic3r but many use Cura.

Don probably has the right idea, adding and removing bits to make it fit properly, but that still requires some woodworking tools and basic skills. Another way might be to make a thin top piece that is cut correctly and glue it on top. I think you'll be struggling to make it usable.

Have a look at Thingiverse, there are all sorts of things to print that people post the .STL files for. There are even a few things for sewing (just search for sewing). Pretty good way to get started.

Well, it was a slightly strange looking machine and the label, as Wiz said, definitely isn't a Consew one. The ad said "for parts", although what they might fit is anybody's guess. I certainly wouldn't want to pay much for something like that, could be a good thing that you missed out.