fredk

When I got some cow-hide impressed with python and croc skin patterns I got a print out from Tandy saying it was cow-hide. Years ago I got some buffalo hide. TSO thought buffalo = bison= protected species. I had trouble getting them to understand it was water buffalo = cattle = cow hide N.I. has its own severe regs; anything from endangered or even thought to be endangered or protected species is likely to give anyone a court appearance, and there is a hefty fine with a custodial sentence - not either, but both. Another; A few years back I had trouble with my TSO and some faux Ivory a friend sent me from USA. It took a lot of doing to make them do a simple test on it to prove it was only plastic

I've not used the Tandy ones. I have a stock of boiler maker's aluminium rivets. I used them to hold a boss and arm straps on a Viking shield. 15 years on that shield is still fighting battles, neither rivets nor straps have given out. Whilst aluminium is not as strong as steel or brass, in the way we use them they are strong enough Problem with aluminium rivets is they corrode very fast, not like steel ones, they get a white powder oxidation on them. Also, that oxidation makes blue coloured stains on skin and cloth and leather Anodized aluminium is better but it still eventually stains If you need more and cheaper look for boiler maker rivets for miniature railway builders ~ not the small toy like rail ways, miniature railwayers build engines 1/3 or 1/4 scale

I use angle-poise type light units, one on each side of my bench. Each has a 24W [approx 150W old fashioned] LED daylight colour bulb. I need to fit a fill light centrally though The lamp units cost me £8 each [appox $11] bulbs were about £2 each [approx $2.50] Each lamp can reach to the centre of my work bench.

Not done a pistol holster but on certain knife sheaths I've used brass sheet. A bit more expensive, as easy to cut and shape as thin steel without the risk of iron staining of the leather

What you say could be right but I think pre-punched and hand sewn. I think the stitch at the hole goes around the edge Also I agree, leather tube sewn and fitted and cross metal tube fitted in thru a pre-cut hole after leather piece fitted

No, they are not. When I started LW I paid good money for a near top of the range s/k. It put me off using it and doing any work where it was needed. The bearing is rough, when turning it is also jerky and sticks. One just cannot do a smooth long cut with any curves. Recently I bought a cheap one out of China for about £3.50 [approx $5]. It is far superior to the expensive one, the bearing rotates with that slight whisper one gets from a well oiled bearing, the barrel and saddle are more comfortable

I got a simple brass one made from here; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Custom-Made-Design-Your-Logo-Leather-Seal-Wood-Stamp-Branding-Iron-Carving-Mold-/382286790022?var=&hash=item0 time from order to in my letter box = 10 days

All the cheap stamps are much of a muchness - Le Prevo sells the same as the Tandy range - L.P = £7.06 each, ( £5.88 +vat), Tandy UK = £9.23 / £7.91 / £6.92 - depends if you are in their discount schemes I've bought the same basic stamps from China (delivered out of a UK address!)** for £4.99 for 20 (!). They have the same code numbers as Tandy/L.P ones. Side by side they are the same. I've not had a handle bend or head break off example; (£6.49) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-Working-Saddle-Making-Tools-Carving-Leather-Craft-Stamps-Set-20Pcs-/232743967340?hash=item36309f1a6c You really need to go up into big money for the better stamps. But I've bought off this chap in Czech Rep. He does basket-weave stamps and fancy ones like that, not regular bevelers and such. https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/007designer007?_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2754 If you want your stamps to give a 'sharper' impression I'd invest in a dremel type drill and grinding wheels {i have such] and just work on the cheap tools to make them a bit better. I bought the 20 pc set at £4.99 for grinding them to other sizes/shapes ** a lot of Chinese ebay sellers now have warehouses in the UK - London and Manchester usually, for swifter delivery of commonly bought items. Instead of a week to six weeks for delivery from China you can have the item within a few days

In the UK it is known as a C spanner

To move on Whenever I needed a strap for a one-off purpose and didn't want to waste good leather on it I used to go to Charity [Thrift in the US] stores and buy cheap belts. I used to get them for about 50p [75c max] The shop was glad for them to go, get money in and also I got some decent buckles on them

Like it

I had a bit like that, I just glued it with PVA glue, after dyeing

One other thing you might try - warning, this may work or it may not ~ soak the ragged edges of the holes with superglue. This will certainly stop them getting any bigger for a while but it may also stiffen the leather

This. In N.I. we still have a very real problem of terrorists attacking and trying to kill LEA, prison guards, civil servants. None of these are allowed to have a facebake account in case their details are gleaned

I had a faceache book thingy for about 2 or 3 years about 4 years ago. I did not use any of my true info for it; false name, false d.o.b., false email addy, false cell phone number. . . . you get the idea. Amazing how many people knew me and had seen me in the coffee shop/computer shop/library/ down at town hall I only had it cos a group I was involved with notified committee members of meetings only by facebook message Thing is; facey spook is a service. Although you do not pay anything you buy into it thus the provider can ask for any info they want as long as its not illegal to do so. Its their play park, you have to play by their rules or don't play. I decided I no longer wanted to play with them.

Hi & welcome to the forum I would get some sort-of flesh coloured - or near enough - linen/cotton mix material and glue patches over the holes on the inside. At least 1/4 inch beyond the edge of the hole should do. Use contact adhesive, just enough to stick the patch

That was a right bit of work to bring it back into use. May it last you a long time of pleasant leather working

That is a Japanese skiving knife. As the OP says, he bought on a recent trip to Japan. I have one and just can't get used to skiving with it; I end up going back to my regular skivers. Thats a nice looking sheath for it too

I got mine thru ebay [as usual] 99p each, or less example listing; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Retro-Alloy-Metal-Flower-Purse-Bag-DIY-Craft-Frame-Kiss-Clasp-Lock-Bronze-ME/142820308015?epid=19006374628&hash=item2140c0f42f:m:m9IuvzJ_RmZSL-owdAhWTjA:rk:5:pf:0

If its blunt-ish on the outside edge, its a carpet layer's knife, if its sharp on that edge as well as inside the hook then its a bird's head knife The kink in the knife tang is so the carpet layer can trim the carpet right at the skirting

Its actually a carpet layer's knife But I use one for cutting leather

PVA will do the job as will regular smelly contact adhesive

A pattern like this can be made up in almost any size. I print out on A4 and take the printed out page to my local library and use their photo-copier to enlarge it

As well as dipping try regular household sponges. The ones you can get 10 for £1 at Home Bargains, Poundland, Tesco etcetera For bigger stuff and more than one in a dye session dipping is the way, but if you have only one, two or three items of modest size, thinned dye put on with a sponge is handier

I do believe you are correct; the hole for the Sam Brown is too close to the top edge. Mount one of these [link below] in that spare hole on your bag. It would be handy for clipping things like key rings to https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-Brass-Rivet-Studs-Screw-Fastener-Screw-Stud-Round-Head-Ring-Leather-Craft-/222859962824?var=&hash=item0