fredk

The legs on that 'stamping table' look fine for front-room parlor furniture but rather spindly for an actual working stamping table. I use to use a table which was stronger built than that but I got too much table bounce. I built my self a special block table. LumpenDoodle2; put a trailer on that thar time machine - I'll take a couple of the tool chest and wood tool racks. Don't want no stinkin easily broken plasticky stuff

Normal woodworking PVA* is good for this. It makes a good strong bond. Prime seal the wood surface first with a coat of diluted PVA first. After it has dried, apply a second coat to the wood suface and apply the leather, in stages, eg top, then two opposite sides, other two sides etcetera. Let each area dry before moving onto the next. A good alternative is contact adhesive. When I use that I prefer the time-bond version. You can reposition the leather a bit, the glue doesn't fully stick until 12 hours or more later * I was asked to repair a sword grip, on site, one day. The owner had tried various other glues but the leather kept coming loose as he fought. I peeled it off, cleaned the grip up a bit and stuck it back on with PVA. It is still holding 5 years on.

I have had straps pull out from around the rivets when under strain or constant use. I changed to putting the straps on the 'Al Stohlman' way - through a slot in the bag's leather so the strap is riveted on the inside - thu the slot - then riveted on the outside as well. No failures since changing to this way. I prefer brass based double head rivest now. I have found that the steel based rivets will show corrosion over time no matter what their top coating is whereas brass still looks good when it ages. As for strength of either, not done any actual test but they seem to be just as strong

Not necessarily; one can buy the individual letters and do them that way For about $50 one can buy a full alphabet set of letters 1cm [3/8''] high letters in italic script made in brass for use with a pyrogravure/soldering iron

1. yes, most good leather suppliers will have some available but grey is not common and may need to be ordered in - at extra cost. 2. Black dye will still give you black 3. Leave it as it comes, or put a couple of coats of 'Resolene' 4. yes, it will be 'toxic' to the photos. The chemicals used in tanning leather will attack the photo inks or silver based image in a matter of days. The alternative is to use an archival rated storage pouch within the leather pouch

You don't want a fan blowing air across the work space. That stirs up the dust and makes any over-spray lift into the air. What you want is something to suck air from your chosen workspace Get to a DIY store; get a bathroom or kitchen air fan which effectively sucks the air. Attach it to some flexible hosing, sold specially for fitting the fans so it'll match it ok. Build a box out of MDF. [I use an old cardboard box] Put a hole in the top for the tubing, put the other end out thru a doorway as you've no windows. Put that end into a box with shredded paper or similar in it, but not tightly. When spraying just turn on the fan and it'll pull the overspray away from you

Most excellent artwork on those holsters If you are doing a number of items then getting a custom stamp done can work out cheap pro-rata I can get large stamps made for about $3 per square inch, minimum charge is about $120 for 40sq inches. That would do two stamps this size; so $60 per, on 10 items its then $6 per item But that artwork is sommat else

oh man, you have me in stitches

No, I'm somewhere else, with very draconian laws on just about everything

I don't know about your area but where I am there are very tight regulations on 'mixes' which I used to sell. I used to be a beekeeper and used to make beeswax polish and leather food/conditioner which I sold. Then tight regulations came in. I can only sell it now if it meets the regs - which it does - and I have $X million in product liability insurance and its been government tested. So now I don't sell my mixes. What I do now, for any polish, is buy a few bottles of good stuff at the cheapest supermarket price I can get and sell it on with a small mark-up in the price. Its more of a service to customers than a profit generator. Wholesellers don't want to sell one case of 24 bottles to me once every year, or less.

Did ya's hear the one about the sewing machine wot wanted to be on X-Factor / America's Got Talent ? Cos it was a Singer ok, I'll get my coat

Believe me, you will know the difference between cared for leather and not-so-well cared for. Cared for leather will always be supple, easy to hold, feel good in the hands, look almost like it was made last week Not-so careful looked after will show signs of drying out, cracks along the edges and in bends & folds. It will look old and feel old even tho it was made recently A chap I know has saddles made 200 years ago. They are looked after; they look like they were made just recently. Not too long ago I was passed a saddle to see if I could 'restore' it. Not carefully looked after but not neglected either. It looked terrible. Turns out it was made less than 25 years ago. When I have to advise someone how to look after anything I've made I just tell them to give it a good going over with any of the top commercial leather care products. How often depends on usage; items used by sports persons to be done before and after everytime they've used it. Re-enactment people; before the season starts, a couple of times during and at the end before packing it away.

Very nice

I've not had this problem of bleed afterwards. On black I use thinned black Resolene mostly. Resolene is available in 'clear' and black. By using the black version I'm not only sealing the dye previously applied but also adding to it An alternative for you would be to buy factory dyed leather and cut the strapping from it. Sounds like your present suppliers aren't very good at the dying

1mm waxed cotton thread is ok I wouldn't go to any finer than 8 stitches per inch with it though. I think 6 spi is about the best

Last first; reply to number 7; for the last 10 years or more I can reckon on supplies coming from Hong Kong/China taking no longer than an average of 10 days. Eastern Europe takes about 3 to 4 days, but from the US, even by special delivery courier; at least 12 to 14 days [mainly due to customs] some have taken 3 months [due to the courier co sitting on it] or more on average. There is now a direct train from China to the UK. On rare occasions stuff from HK/C has not turned up, but there again its been the same for orders from US, Europe, Africa.... To me its more of a lottery of a/ when or if my order from the US will arrive b/ what amount of duty will I have to pay to get into my hands c/ how long will C&E hold it or even return it to the US #5. Bank tells me 'wire' is old fashioned and un-safe. BACS is the modern way but US banks mostly don't accept that, only European and Far East banks do. [are we using different names for the same process, where the bank differentiates?] #1. tongue in cheek, ok, but my country is not a 'colony' of any country; used to have lots of colonies tho, like 13 of them in that thar New World place Lastly, bread cheap enough but not the organic food; about 100 to 300% dearer than regular grub As I said earlier; If I lived in the US I'd buy local, but I don't so I don't

Thats nice. Pity it'll be mostly under somebody's bottom end

I store some leather in the cardboard tubes which carpet is wound round. They are usually about 12 to 15 feet long. I got some free from a carpet shop and cut them down to 4 foot lengths

Does it really weaken the leather so much that it matters? Perhaps in some items it does matter, but in a shoulder bag or belt pouch? When I was involved in medieval re-enactment I had a regular flow of items to repair. Mostly it was where the thread had worn away and broken and the two parts had separated as the stitching had become un-done. In all these cases the original maker did not use a groove. In the repair I grooved before re-sewing. I never had one of my repairs come back to me.

yup; we shure are

Happy to help and further learning

A few points 1. No 'congress' in my country; HMRC set the import tax rate. 2. A recent order for $25 from the US cost me $24 in taxes = $49 3. The $23 stamps from Hong Kong cost just that - no delivery or taxes added 4. As a private user I cannot set up either a Fedex [who do not deliver in my country anyways] or UPS contract in my country - their rules 5. My bank does not do 'wire' transfers 6. I have to jump thru hoops to use my CC in direct sales in the US, but not in Europe or via paypal - hoops include posting to the seller a signed written order before the CC will recognise and accept it - that takes 5 to 7 days. 7. The order mentioned in #2 came into my country 2 days after ordering it, it then sat for 14 days whilst it cleared customs; meanwhile the order from Hong Kong dropped thru my door's letter box.

I scanned thru that article; published on May 9th 2017, but copied from another article from when it was actually found, or slightly afterwards - June 2010; 7 years ago. As would be normal with such items the Archies will have written up the find; ie, the context of the find, the materials of it, measurements and its construction with line drawings of it, major points of interest and cross-sections The University College of Cork [in Ireland] was primarily involved so if anyone is really interested they could ask the Uni for a copy of the Archies report on it. The report might be free or there maybe a small monetary charge for it The shoe looks to me like a turn-shoe; only sewn along the seam where the two folded up sides meet on the top of the foot. No seperate sole sewn on, thus no welt. Basically, wet moulding would fit it to the foot then

Hand stitching is possible; pre-punch stitching holes on the edge of the piece which is on the outside - contact glue this overlapped part to the other [to hold in place] - use an awl to pierce the inner part, going thru the pre-punched stitching holes, sew it up. If the base is really hard to get into use a curved needle, from the outside. I've sewn up repair patches on the sides of repro-medieval shoes doing it that way IMHO the latch looks too big and heavy for the smaller bag. The Sam Browne fitting is a good idea, or a very light weight strap & buckle Seach out chinese and malaysian sellers of leather goods on Ebay; you can find them selling ready-rivets in all sorts of sizes, styles and colours and they are usually very cheap