fredk

My suggestion is my method for removing mild marks on leather which I have mistakenly or inadvertently made. Sometimes a bit of a ghost mark can still be seen, by me, but not others, and that is usually worked over anyways

I use my local version of 'Mop & Glo'. My version is water-thin but I think the US version is thicker and needs thinning with water. About 3 thinned coats will do. Any more than that and its starts to be too thick

You will need to either a. take the item apart or b. get a piece of medium thickness aluminium or steel plate just big enough to slip inside the item and to where you want to stamp or decorate

How big? How deep? a few photos and more details would help If its not deep you could try soaking the leather and while it dries out burnish the top surface with something flat and hard. For this I use glass paperweights Like the one top right and the large one at the bottom of the photo

Scrap leather used with plastic cable ties are great for holding leather to round things

Over here we have painters tape called 'Frog tape'. There are three or four 'grades'. I use a standard one with my plastic modelling and I use the 'Green', the low tack grade on my leather. I use it to mask off the squares on my game boards and other similar jobs. This tape has never left any residue or reacted with dyes, paints or top finish. Actually, sometimes the low tack can be the problem!

I like to use these sewing hole pliers. The teeth are about 2mm wide with about 2.5mm between them. They can punch through thin leathers, up to about 4.5 mm thick. They are available with 4 teeth or 2 teeth I use 0.8 or 1mm thread with, afair a 17g needle

btw, the method I described was basically the way I used to re-cover sword and dagger grips in my medieval presentation group. The underlaying wood was often shaped

What about Sergey? He has an advert at the top of the LW pages Makes most excellent stamping tools

Just a thought; I would drop to 1.2 - 1.6 mm (3 to 4 oz). lightly glue one edge of a piece to the stick. Bring it around and trim the other edge to meet to first. Lightly glue that edge down. Mark matching stitching holes. Remove the leather and use leather lace to stitch it. Put it back on the stick then wet mould it

It will stamp worse,. Even on a small project its best to case only once and keep it damp, even in just a sealable plastic bag Are you speaking of top surface burnishing or edge? The edges will burnish up real nice and easily, it will take a lot of effort, and I mean a lot, to burnish the top surface

Yes it does alter After your first casing when the leather dries you'll find it stiffens up and also shrinks a bit After each subsequent casing the leather will get ever so slightly more stiff but won't shrink by very much, if at all To counteract this stiffening you should feed it with nfo as it dries after casing Upon the initial casing it will tool nicely and easily. Upon subsequent casing it will need more effort to tool well. But we are talking of it'll just need a greater whack on the tool with the mallet, not having to use a 15lb sledgehammer. The difference is there but not too noticeable If you are going to tool over a period you can do a first casing, keep the leather damp with a sponge as you work. At the end of a session wrap it in ceran food wrap and put it in the fridge until the next session. It will keep for days like this. When I do this I put just a little bit of bleach in the casing water to prevent mould from growing

Chromexcel is a trade name for a leather that has been both chrome and veg tanned. Veg tanned to give the leather bulk and stiffness and chrome tan to make it supple

I would just use 1.5mm (approx) veg tan. I'd dye it a contrasting colour, such as a light tan or black, or even a colour such as blue, red or green

yeah. me too.

My family used to have a set that looked exactly like those The forks were 'pickle forks' , the straight un was for pickled onions and the nut crackers. On of my older sisters used to torture me by using the nut crackers on one of my fingers ; ~ 'do as I say or want or. . . . ' as she squeezed Back on topic; it does look like the pickle forks have been re-purposed to edge bevellers and/or for pulling out small tacks, like shoe sole tacks

Very nice wee purse. Excellent use of 'scrap'. But as we know, there is no 'scrap' in leather crafting. Every sq mm can be used in some way

In the normal course of things it doesn't matter, if you are saddle stitching On straight run stitching it can make a difference On some thin leathers I have holes at 2 -3mm rip out and I have to go up to 5 - 6mm What happens comes with experience

What size do you need? https://www.nautimarket-europe.com/en/Trem-Stainless-Steel-Friction-rotating-base-for-seats-175x175mm-TRD1712563

Just use ordinary paper patterns. Even the seam allowances are alright for leather seams My first choice for leather would be from Le Prevo : http://www.leprevo.co.uk/hides.htm Scroll down for the clothing leather. And the staff at Le Prevo will help with advice too

I get advertising emails from 'Ivan' I just got one about a range of hole punches; https://www.ivan.tw/products/craftplus-professional-drive-punches Interesting shape. And I wonder if that wider chute on the smaller sizes will make it easier to clear the punches of the plugs?

Sometimes the subject comes up ' does chrome tan leather affect steel' ? Today I got out of my EDC pouch a small pair of snippers. I'd made them a small sheath out of some chrome tan leather to cover the blades. The snippers have been in the pouch for months, unused until today. The bare metal blades had some mild corrosion on them

Just over a month ago Gezzer posted up a thread on a hatband he'd made In that thread I suggested getting some false fingers to put on the hatband I got the fingers. They are polythene plastic, not real ones (aww!) They were painted, very terribly, so I repainted them. They are about 50% bigger than real ones Now to find a use for them

There should be a letter before the number. The letter indicates which group the tool belongs, eg A = Backgrounders (mostly), B = Bevellers, P = Pear shaders, S = Seeders, et cetera

Verily most very excellent ! Mucho congrats to you Craftsmanship will always win through