fredk

They are easy enuf to get here in UK I used to use a lot of them but I never considered using them on leather. I must re-think that

wot he says basically, my differences are; a fine needle file on the inside and a small diamond plate sharpener on the outside

If it can do thin chrome tan veg tan will be a doddle

Dilute the standard PVA wood glue with 'Mop & Glo' [?] floor varnish. Its an acrylic varnish and when added to the glue it makes it water-resistant when dry

Once upon a time these were the 'bling' for working horses. They were often attached to straps which were then attached to draft-horse harness. Sometimes the brasses were left on all the time. Sometimes the brasses were only put on for shows Then from the 1960s thru the 1970s it was a fad to collect them and just hang them on straps around your rustic fireplace

Both have their uses. I have both types in different spacing sizes The black ones are better for thread sewing and the silver ones, which make round holes and take away leather, are better for lace stitching

Its not so much the wax, its the leather hole closing up. If you've made a sewing hole without removing any leather, ie with an awl or stitching chisels et cetera the hole will close up and tighten around the thread or lace

If its possible, I too will sometimes bring the thread out between the layers of leather, but I just cut them off and tuck them back in away out of sight

I sew the bottom of my dice cups with 1 mm thread or lace. Actually, all the thread sewing on my dice cups is 1mm thread, or if I need a certain colour I use 0.8mm thread because that colour isn't available in 1mm from where I buy it

Try searching on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/332571985014

On small items I back stitch two places, on larger items I back stitch 4 places. I never burn off my thread

Mix, [all measure are approx. I do measure but also do 'just a wee bit more' ] 300ml clean filtered hot water with 30ml NFO 35g of pure solid soap [soap that doesn't have scent or additives] 28g pure clean bees wax 1 tablespoon of laundry washing powder 1 teaspoon of caustic soda Bring slowly to a rolling boil and keep it there and stir occasionally until the solid soap has completely melted and mixed in. Then remove heat and allow to cool slowly. Once it is cool enough, but before it has solidified too much, pour into a storage container

You and other US Americans may make that association but the hat was known as the Pilgrim's hat in Europe as far back as 1099. It was the hat of choice initially by Pilgrims and fighters going to the Holy land in the first Christian wars. Illustrations in old manuscripts show the hat worn by Pilgrims mariuspirvu Your hat design looks OK in a Steam Punk way, but it looks a bit over complicated on the making of the crown and brim, imo

Try clearing your cache and cookies

Wow! Years ago I was involved with a company which restored old buses. That seat you have done looks so much better than the work of so-called professional upholsters we had to use

All normal at my end

Wot he says; I can buy 18mm s/o blades £1 per 10 - too cheap to sharpen, just replace 18mm s/o are a standard size

Looks the biz. Just make sure the replacement blades can be obtained. I have a hand-held strap skiver which takes replaceable blades but the blades are near impossible to buy now and if found cost a lot of ££ each

Be careful with what you buy. Some [a lot] of this pre-cut is not in leather as we know it but in plastic leather

Sometimes its stubborn. Use a crepe eraser to eliminate it. A more severe removal is using an old fashioned eraser for ink on paper - but use that just enough to remove the mark, too much and it can ruin the leather surface

That key fob and several others were available with and with out the blades to cut the stitching holes. I opted for the one with Keep lookin PS; the metal of the die is only pressed into a bit of wood. I / You can actually pull out the blades quite easily

See that key fob? It can double up as a strap attachment on a bag. I've not used it as such, but its one reason why I bought that one. Heck, even round key fobs can double up as strap attachments on bags

Yes you can, or the other way up; put the leather on the die and use a bit of scrap wood between the leather and the mallet, to save the mallet face from damage I have the Tandy press. [https://www.tandyleather.world/products/tandypro-r-hand-press?_pos=4&_sid=6f995a4f4&_ss=r] Its 1.25 T. I use it for a 'clicker press'. With some items I need to move the die around pressing it down area by area, with some smaller items just the one go does A couple of dies I have are a simple key fob; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402349765586 I got this to cut key fobs out of scrap pieces and this valet tray die, with this I've used a mallet and my press, its one I have to around and do each side and corner in turn https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154533000463 on the smaller side, I have some circle dies which I use to punch out circular bases for game pieces. I can do them quicker with the die than with a regular hole punch, but more importantly, I can do them quietly at night

One other marker I use to mark holes which will be punched out, or sewn or laced over - a Tippex pen. Tippex is the UK name for 'wite-out' correction fluid. It can be removed with careful use of alcohol

If its in an area to be cut or punched out - an ordinary biro pen. Or a 4B pencil, or a small mark with a pointy awl or tailors chalk. On leather with a finish I use Tandy's marker pen https://www.tandyleather.world/products/leather-marking-pen?_pos=1&_sid=6b9cc59ba&_ss=r Or put down some low tack painters masking tape and mark that with a pen so many ways, each to suit the job in hand