Dwight

Take em one at a time . . . yes . . . everyone will have dye rub off. It is the dried physical pieces of the dye that did not penetrate. Rubbing with an old wash cloth or tee shirt or flannel shirt is how I get rid of it. USMC black is one I will not use . . . it is no more "black" than the pro dye . . . but it will rub off till the cows come home from the back pasture. I use resolene on the backside . . . sometimes I will use a glass slicker with a tad of water . . . then resolene . . . but I try not to buy leather that forces me to do that. I generally line a western gun belt . . . all of my CCW belts . . . all of my western holsters . . . and by lining . . .I make the product out of two pieces of the same hide . . . I don't use other leathers and I don't use two different thicknesses . . . but it is just MY habit . No . . . I do not special mix. Have never found a "need" to do it. The shades I offer . . . folks find one they like . . . all are Feibings Pro Oil dyes . . . mixed 50/50 with Feibings thinner. Hope this helps . . . holler if I can do more. May God bless, Dwight

Yeah . . . that one is simple Cut . . . tool . . stamp . . . dye ASSEMBLE AND STITCH Finish . . . Doing it in that order . . . you will be able to dampen . . . not slurpy wet . . . just dampen and bend it around a form and allow it to dry there. Stitching two pieces together and then bending . . . will 99 times out of 100 cause wrinkles on the inside and you will usually wind up with a shape you can live with . . . but it may not be "just what you wanted". Forming . . . mating to gether after formed . . . then glued and stitched will give you THE SHAPE you wanted. May God bless, Dwight

Chiefjason as a good process . . . and it'll work fine . . . On something like you are doing . . . because I have a sewing machine that will do it . . . because of the heavy duty curves . . . I would wet the quiver body . . . wrap it around a form that will give it pretty darn near the final shape you need . . . As it is drying I would wet the outside pieces . . . and form them to the outside shape of the quiver . . . and set the whole magillicutty off somewhere to dry I would then contact cement the outside pieces to the quiver . . . then head for my Cowboy sewing machine . . . take off my flat table . . . and sew the patches on. Then just finish it all up. But either way will work . . . my way is just a tad harder. . . but when you get the patches on . . . there will be no tendency for the quiver to want to go back to laying flat. Makes the final sewing a whole bunch easier. May God bless, Dwight

The Tippmann machine is very easy to use . . . https://www.tippmannindustrial.com/content/Manual-Boss-5-9-14.pdf will allow you to download the instruction manual. Just click it . . . check your "download" file . . . double click the manual there . . . and you're good to go. May God bless, Dwight

I've had a Boss since basically 2000 . . . could not guess how much I've sewn on it . . . belts, holsters, purses, knife sheaths . . . etc. The others may have a good warranty . . . it will not be better than Tippmann . . . from my experience. I live close enough to be there in a couple hours . . . for less money than I could ship it . . . so for the few times I've had trouble . . . I've loaded it up and taken it there. Ben or one of the others cleans off a work bench . . . and go to work on it . . . I bring it home . . . and go back to work . . . and have never been charged. Hard to beat . . . especially since they did have to replace a part here or there. May God bless, Dwight

I've never really found any other than you need to touch it up now and then. May God bless, Dwight

Good job . . . I had a 365 for a while . . . sold it to my son . . . never ever could get used to it . . . been a 1911 guy since 1966 . . . just cannot get the hands to say "Alright . . . this one is OK" They always put up a fuss and ask where the gun is. Ahhhh . . . such is life. May God bless, Dwight

That's basically 7/8 oz . . . my usual holster making material . . . I double it . . . contact cement the two together . . . and mold the holster from that. I also make a lot of other stuff out of it . . . probably my favorite thickness . . . makes great CCW or cartridge belts . . . Vacuum forming rig helps out. May God bless, Dwight

ST leather in St Louis . . . or Tandy Leather . . . both sell on line . . . https://stleather.com/ https://tandyleather.com/?utm_source=GMB&utm_medium=Yext&y_source=1_MjM3NjIzNTItNzE1LWxvY2F0aW9uLndlYnNpdGU%3D I buy from Tandy . . . have no complaints on the stuff I've gotten from them. May God bless, Dwight

Lots of us on here make those things . . . This is my most popular one . . . hangs off your belt . . . strap goes up and over the top of the phone . . . then down between the phone and the outside of the case . . . very secure. May God bless, Dwight

Unless requested by the buyer . . . I only make 2 1/2 belts. Adding 4 inches is the "standard" . . . and it don't make any difference where or how you measure it . . . so long as the regular belt the buyer wears and the gun belt are measured the same way. Measure the buyer's belt to the "most used" hole . . . it'll be the one that is wallered out. But as a practice . . . I always measure from the edge of the buckle . . . That does not appear to be a money belt . . . but most of the reason it curves is his pizza belly and the weight of the cartridges. They are some kind of heavy when you put a bunch on a belt like he has. The holster can be stopped from pulling up with a thigh strap . . . or sometimes folks will sew in an extra piece of leather that goes up and pushes against the belt so the holster can't pull up. May God bless, Dwight

Some time back . . . I filled a quart jar with steel wool . . . poured in the suggested apple cider vinegar . . . and waited a while for it to work up. Brought the jar into the shop . . . liquid is some kind of super dark black . . . BUT . . . put a piece of veg tanned leather in it to check it out . . . it turns the leather a very pretty dark grey . . . but it ain't black. Did I miss something in my journey??? AND . . . what is the preferred final step to get the vinegar acid out of the leather???? Thanks, may God bless, Dwight

Absolutely beautiful . . . thanks for the look May God bless, Dwight

Beautiful leather and metal work . . . but I'd love to see the knife May God bless, Dwight

When I do zippers . . . I use Weldwood and contact cement them into place . . . Works great. You just have to be sure to use two coats most of the time . . . May God bless, Dwight

Kydex is the word there. With a heat gun . . . you can virtually form it into almost any shape you want. Give it a good sanding before forming it (whole lot easier while it is still flat) . . . and then you can contact cement your liner and your outer cover to it . . . holds good. May God bless, Dwight

My gun belts are all of 7/8 oz leather . . . exactly 8 oz is 1/8 of an inch . . . so a double layer is 1/4 inch if both pieces were a full 8 oz. Usually the leather I get tends to be a bit shy . . . so my total thickness usually runs in the .200 inches or thereabouts. I generally cut both pieces from the same hide . . . if there are any small blemishes . . . they go to the inside. And yes . . . if the money belt were curved . . . it would fit better. The last couple I made were of 5/6 oz and I did them rough out . . . so they would cling a bit better to the wearer. Again I did not get any complaints . . . but I'm sure I know what happened . . . they cinched them up good and tight to start with . . . and the body heat and perspiration tended to re-mold them . . . similar to that which occurs with regular work belts. I've played a bit with using two different thicknesses . . . and never really liked the feel or the look . . . just one of those things on me. The big aggravation is that using a thinner lining . . . it will tend to bubble and buckle . . . looking wrinkled . . . I try to stay away from that look. May God bless, Dwight

It is probably the same product as Deanr mentioned . . . Tandy sells a "bag stiffener" . . . I've used it on numerous projects . . . strong, lightweight, not extremely expensive, cuts with a razor knife . . . It can go inside your liner . . . and / or can be fabric covered for a "different" look inside the bag . . . as well as making little pockets to attach to it for ink pen, scissors, compass, envelopes, credit cards, or whatever. May God bless, Dwight

I learned to make gunbelts and holsters from John Bianchi . . . a premier leather worker. I watched his lessons on making western drop down gun rigs . . . and while he told you how to do it . . . he did not supply any pattern ideas. I guess he figured if you were hoss enough to jump into it . . .you'ld figure it out. I had to do a bunch of "print screen" shots . . . then print them . . . and measure them and scale them . . . to figure out how to do a bunch of things . . . the belt curve was one. I made a pattern as you can see in the pictures . . . that will open up for bigger or smaller patrons. Look at the edge of the big picture . . . and you'll see the numbers that correspond to the size belt I'm making at the time. For your example . . . I picked a 42 inch belt . . . which is the gun belt size for a person whose normal belt size is 38. In the close up . . . you can see that there is a 4 1/2 inch difference on the curve. I have used this pattern for 20 some odd years now . . . never had anyone complain about it . . . And yes . . . you can save yourself some stitching by making money belts . . . and I've made a few . . . and the sorry things would never stay up like I really wanted them to . . . unless I put them on like a girdle trying to hide 50 lbs of pig fat. They are not one of my favorite items to make. You also have to glue the moneybelt layers together just like a regular gun belt . . . or otherwise it will roll and flop up and down if you are in a truck or car seat. Making a full open money belt might be "authentic" of a few folks from back then . . . but certainly not many. AND . . . I don't make gun belts that are anything but lined. I started that way . . . plan on continuing. May God bless, Dwight

You can do wallets and some purses with this . . . forget belts and holsters. It only takes a 17 needle . . . and 92 thread . . . holsters need a minimum of 207 thread . . . and that is the BARE minimum . . . I do 346 on both belts and holsters . . . as do others. You need a Tippmann Boss or whatever the Tandy Leather equivalent is for that . . . and you are basically looking at 1000 bucks new . . . and whatever used. They are both hand machines . . . one pull on the handle and the push back . . . gets you one stitch. A 40 inch belt at 6 stitches per inch will cost you 500 pulls and 500 pushes . . . and about 1/2 hour. 10 minutes per side with a 10 minute break at the tip of the belt. I did a bunch of em. The single most important question you need to ask whoever is selling you a machine is the maximum thread size . . . if your thread ain't big enough to do the job . . . you will just waste leather and time . . . get frustrated . . . and quit. Oh . . . both of these machines can come with a littl horse looking mount . . . takes up about the space of an end table . . . and none of your apartment neighbors would probably even know you have a machine in the place. May God bless, Dwight

Good job May God bless, Dwight

Never had that problem . . . I use a cheap 1 inch bristle brush . . . slop it on . . . brush it up into a bit of a foam . . . brush it left / right / up / down / crossways . . . until I've brushed out the bubbles . . . never have had any streaking on anything I've ever done. AND . . . I always use it reduced 50/50 with water. May God bless, Dwight

My heavens and OUCH . . . have to wait until I sell some more stuff before I can order it . . . May God bless, Dwight

You quit too early on the Resolene . . . I have armor for my Centurion of Capernaum and the Ceaserean Centurion both of which I built . . . and multiple coats of Resolene have protected both. I haven't had any real problems with either one. May God bless, Dwight