chuckgaudette

This is interesting. I've been curious about their manufacturing myself. I assumed that outside lap seam was done on a post machine. Please post more photos if you find any. I also wondered what company in Italy fuses the lining to the outside leather. That black bag is a somewhat stiff Saffiano leather but the fused lining is smooth. I have a post machine and its difficult to get through the machine.

Thanks SaltyDOgg. I did finally find one.

I've made some bags with Saffiano and it is hard to work with. I can be a real pain to get through the sewing machine.

I know Brian. You'd think someone would have one to sell by now Chuck

I am in need of a strap cutter. Ideally a powered machine but a good manual machine would be considered. If any one has one to sell please let me know. thanks chuck

I have a set of 12pt san serif. Some generic font I don't know what the name of it is. But what I use most is 48pt Lydian caps for monograming handbags. It a nice sans serif with just enough style. I also had my brother make a makers mark for me out of brass on his CNC machine that fits the Kingsley holder Chuck

Thanks again Brian. Always interesting. I have a couple of Kingsley machines myself. They use to be made just down the street from me. Chuck

These are very beautiful Brian. I've enjoyed reading every step. I marvel at how you are able to create whatever tools you need to accomplish a task. Thanks for sharing. Chuck

I rarely use the binding attachment on my 335 because it take a lot time to set it up, and after I remove it, it takes so long to get the machine perfectly set up again for regular sewing. Just not worth it for binding one bag.

Thanks Bob. I'm trying a #18 right now. Seems to work. I've always used #69 thread with softer leather and had everything dialed in. Switching to #96 and English Bridle sort of throws everything off.

Well increasing the presser foot pressure worked. Don't know why I didn't think of it. Thanks Sonydaze.

I’m trying to sew two pieces of 5oz English Bridle together. This is the first time I’ve used leather this firm. Typically I use 2-3oz somewhat soft leather. I’m using a PFAFF 335, #92 bonded nylon thread and a size 22 needle. Sewing one 5 oz piece is no problem. But sewing two together and the needle seems to stick coming up causing the leather to pull up with it along with the presser foot. In a few stitches the thread will fray and break. The #22 needle seems to be making a big enough hole. I’ve tried changing the tension on the bobbin. Can some tell me what I can do to solve this problem? Thanks

Another great video Brian. Thanks. Chuck

Brian, being able to design and fabricate your own machinery is a real advantage. Thanks for sharing Chuck

the rubber band idea would work for sure. I'll give that a try. even light gage wire to hold the lever in place would work. Lifting the press foot by hand isn't really a problem

Brian, To answer your question, I don't really know. this is a good solution for me because I don't have any balance issues. But maybe not for others. There are so many different conditions people can have. But there are some drawbacks. On the 335 you have to hold the reverse lever up (it doesn't stay in place) so I don't have a free hand to do that. And I always have to raise and lower the presser foot by hand. But you work with what you have. Chuck

I really appreciate companies working on solutions for people who can't use all their limbs of which I am one of them, being wheelchair bound since 1996. I did learn to fly an airplane after I got this chair. I found a guy who made a hand control which he had an FAA certification for. The way it works is you slide your arm through a ring on a rod which is connected to the pedal. It allows you to use both hands and still operate the rudder pedal with your forearm. So when I took up leather work I used a similar approach. I have a rod connected to the pedal of my PFAFF 335 which I can operate with my forearm. The original rod connecting the pedal to the motor is still connected. I apply pressure to the plate at the top of this rod which works the pedal below. This allows me to use both hands to guide the leather through the machine and vary the speed at the same time. Of course I also have a speed reducer which helps with the finer control. It looks a bit clunky with $10 worth of parts from Home Depot but it works.

I recently switched from Barge to EcoWeld that Tandy sells. Its water based contact cement. The bond gets stronger over time. So far I've been happy with it.

I've done this seam with a post machine

Beautiful work as always Brian

I have a PFAFF 335. I use a table like this and a detachable flat bed accessory made by Uwe. Works well. I have the open space under the arm for making bags. When I need a flat bed the Uwe one attaches in seconds. Chuck

I have Uwe's flat bed attachment for my PFAFF 335. I love it. Works beautifully and he did a great job making it. Chuck

Brian, these videos are very cool. Thanks for doing this. I need to look into getting a roller foot for my machine. Chuck

Uwe, is there any downside to removing the brake?

I've been wanting something like this for a long time