chuckgaudette

Great job!

I've wondered the same thing. My best guess is a post machine

Hi Charlie, What feed wheel do you have? Metal with milled lines or a porous stone?

I hate it when that happens. Just can't get good help anymore. Thanks for trying.

Thanks Rocky, I appreciate your advice. BTW, I admire your work

thanks Rocky for saving me the cost of a rubber ball. Bruce, I'll look into a steel wheel and see if one is available of my machine.

Thanks Rocky, That's interesting. I've seen machines with a waste bin but I didn't know that they had a suction system. I just thought scraps fell in by gravity. Mine of course just has a hole in the table so the scraps can collect in a pile on my knees. I seem to recall somewhere that there are alternatives to the stone ball feeder. Something like a rubber ball. Don't know if this Consew has such an option.

I have a Consew bell skiver. Its fairly new (6 months) and I think I have it set up correctly. The problem I have is with the ball that feeds the material. Often, especially with relatively thin goat, the waste material sticks to the ball. So then that waste material comes around and under the material thats about to go through and causes irregular skived thickness. Sometimes even tearing the material. Is there anything I can do about this? Chuck

thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with aacrack so I'll check them out

Uwe, what binding attachment would you recommend for the PFAFF 335? I don't do binding often so I don't want to spend a lot money on one. Most of my bags use 1.5 -3 mm calf or cow leather.

MudBugWill, I know your post is old but I wondered if you still have any of the Saffiano sides? If so, what colors. If not, can you tell me where you got them? Thanks Chuck

Bruce, I take your blog post as permission to buy a second machine and continue this love hate relationship

I'm totally sold on UWE's flat bed attachment. On or off in seconds. Rock solid.

really nice work

have you tried Ohio Travel Bag?

So I just got around to doing the Siegel test on a lot of leather I was either given or bought. Turns out 90% of it is chrome tan. I know that there is more chrome tan around than veg tan, but the shocking thing is most of what I bought from local merchants was marked veg tan. One more question. I've noticed that some leather is referred to as chrome free but not actually veg tan. What would that be?

Art, that is a neat trick too. I just tried it and it worked as you said.Thanks. One more piece of knowledge!

Thanks guys. I've only been doing leather work for about 6 months and have learned a lot. But there's so much more I need to know.

this interesting. I will give it a try. So should I assume then that there's no way by just looking at a piece of leather or working with it I can determine with some accuracy if its chrome or veg?

I've got several bags of scrap leather people have given me. My question is, how do I know what is chrome tan and what is veg tan? Is there some technique you use to identify the one from the other? thanks chuck

Thats a skill that is beyond me at this point. But I think I will play around with the technique

Thanks Madmax22. So you do it like I thought. You lift the presser foot and reposition the material. It's only way I could think of. Does it make a difference where the needle is when you do this? I would assume to position the needle better it would be close to the material.

Hello All, I have a PFAFF 335 but I'm very inexperienced with sewing machines (like a month). I work on mostly small leather accessories like watch straps. My question is, when you are coming to an edge and you see that your last stitch will either be too long or too short, what is the best way to adjust for that? I've watched Al Bane's video using a Cobra 4 and it appears that he is able to adjust the amount of back stitch to compensate. The 335 doesn't seem to have such adjustment. It just does a full stitch back. Unless I'm missing something on this machine. So do I lift the presser foot and manually try to reposition the leather to try and make it work out? Or is there a better way? Thanks Chuck

Thanks Sonydaze. That seems to work.

Hello All, I have a PFAFF 335. It's new and I only purchased it a week ago. I'm pretty inexperienced with sewing machines. I believe I have it threaded correctly and it sews nicely. But 6 or 7 times out of 10 when I lift the presser foot and removed the material I find two threads coming from the bobbin. If I hand turn the wheel one thread will release and its usually about 3 or 4 inches long. So obviously its getting caught up somewhere. Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? I usually have about 10" of both bobbin thread and top thread pulled towards the back of the machine when I start to sew. Thanks for your help Chuck