alpha2

Jeff, I'd be surprised if you didn't like the general design! I don't mold in for the ejection port much on Glocks. That sharp edge can be problematic. Thanks for the kind words, and tips, guys! Jeff

Just completed another holster. This one for a Glock 19. I use 7/8oz leather. If I could find the slide/frame junction, I'd press a line in there, but I can't find it through that thickness leather. Tips, anyone? The holster looks kinda plain without some additional boning. Jeff

Excellent first attempt! Very smooth, good stitching, even dye. Nothing wrong here! ( wish my first looked that good!) Jeff Oh! And good edges, too!

I generally use water, at least at first. I also will use the slicker after I've dyed a piece. I sometimes use beeswax or a mixture including beeswax. Saddle soap will work too. Remember though, don't use something to burnish, that will prevent something else being absorbed into the leather. Like dye, stain or edge paint. Also, keep in mind that some stuff is water based, and some is "spirit" or alcohol based. Don't mix these. For instance, a alcohol based substance, then a water based finish over that. If you use a water based stain, use a water based finish, or at least one that is compatible. This can be a challenge sometimes. Jeff

If you're fairly certain you will be doing this for a while, my advice would be to buy the best tools you can afford. "Buy once, cry once". I'ts cheaper in the long run, than buying cheap, then realizing you will get much better results with a better quality tool. When that happens, you've already bought the cheap one, now you'll buy the better one anyway, when you could have just bought the good one in the first place. I've personally done that WAY too many times. Jeff

The clicker die is like a cookie cutter. The steel rulers I have are cork backed, which is nice, 'cause they don't slip, but the steel edge is just far enough above the thinner leather that it can move and stretch. The acrylic patterns are excellent. They're right on the leather. But you have to hold them firmly AT THE CUT! Also, BOTH of my Olfa rotary cutters can be changed to the other "handed-ness". Also, also...What Bikermutt said is true, for some reason the leather loves to moves just a smidgen at the end of the cut. Leather can be evil, sometimes.

Yeah, but what does it smell like? (I do like the no waste aspect, though, THAT would be nice!)

I didn't think of that!

The best pic I've found on threading this machine, is from the Juki 441 manual. It shows it this way, so as the 4500 is a 441 clone, I figured this is the way to do it. I can't tell the difference in this way or the other way. The other "manual" pics are pretty indistinct. This way will slightly increase the thread tension, so you might want to back off a half turn on the adjustment.

Thanks, Bob! Done! Oh, and Bob...it's Sunday! Take a day off, already!

Gotta love pictures! Glad we could help. Jeff

Appreciate the offer, but I've got a few thousand boxes here to measure and make a template! Unfortunately, most of the boxes are empty. I'm working on a holster for a G19 right now, I'll get started on the shell holder while the glue is drying. Or dye is drying. Or finish is drying. Seems like I spend most of my time waiting for stuff to dry!

The first two pics are the foot pedal mechanism at rest, and fully deployed. How does it match your?

That's not right, but it just occurred to me that when I was reading the manual for mine, it mentioned that the lever, and the foot pedal don't raise the feet the same distance. I don't recall which raises it higher, but I think it was the foot pedal. It hasn't up for me yet, so I don't remember!

The 4500 will do up to 7/8", is your project below that?

It took me a second to figure that one out! Now I want one too! I might have to copy that design for the shell holder. I'd put it off because I didn't want to deal with the corners. Problem solved!

Say what you will. You don't have Dee rings. We don't have islands. You win. Tell you what, I've got a bunch of Dee rings. I'll trade you for some island. And, we've got two pairs of neighbors, both recently returned from trips. Next door, and across the street. Off to New Orleans and Florida. They are all horribly sick. Airline travel these days will cause you distress! Jeff

I started out just like you, cheap stuff to practice, see if it was a "thing" for me. Then more practice, because I didn't want to spend serious money on crap work. Now, I've arrived a place where I want the additional quality that good leather provides. I've also replaced a lot of tools with better stuff. It makes a differences, but you really need to practice the basics with what you can afford. Oh, and what Fredk just said. Tandy has some seriously nasty, overpriced "stuff". Search on this forum for leather sellers, you'll be amazed at the quality you can get for a better price than brand T.

When all is said and done, it's on the buckle side. Not the watch side. But, I understand your concern. Jeff

Have you considered this? It might not be what you're looking for. I think you are doing short slits, not the long ones this probably does. I've never used one, so not sure. Jeff

As you can see, I took a Dremel to the needle foot too. BIG help.

We know you meant "marking". What I found when I got a new machine from Bob...if I didn't have anything to sew, I was despondent until I had something to sew again! You may find when you get other various feet and such, you have to some grinding/filing/sanding/bending to get them to fit. There's a reason these are known as "Juki knock-offs". The fit and finish leaves something to be desired. Part of the savings, that's all. For instance, this is what I got as a presser foot. Slightly askew, eh what? Nothing I couldn't fix. Jeff

A "pancake" style holster will pull the weight of the firearm pretty well into your side, a belt-loop type will let the weight of the firearm pivot a bit more, possible causing the rig to push in at the lower end. You can also adjust the "ride-height" some to affect this. A stiffer carry belt will also affect this. BTW, I went to DeAnza junior high school, and Ventura High School in the 60's. I lived at the entrance to Lake Casitas, as my dad was the Park Superintendent there at the time. (This was LONG before there was even an island in Lake Casitas.) I know for a fact that my grade school isn't there anymore. Santa Ana School. 4 rooms, and the lunch room was benches under the Live Oaks. Wow, talk about the "wayback machine"!!! Jeff

With leather, you have to be careful how you pull at the strap to get it to the proper hole. The more acute the angle of pull, the more you stretch the leather on the top of the strap. Belts have the same issue, and is why I try to always use roller buckles if possible, it spreads the strain over more area, and doesn't stress the leather as much. This will be more pronounced with a padded strap, as it appears you have there. Jeff

I did one from watching gmace99's video. I can recommend it. Jeff