alpha2

Your curves are getting a lot better, very quickly! Much smoother now. Jeff

That is very similar to the KaBar sheath. KaBar ran the loop just a bit further into the welt area, and added one rivet in the center of the connection. So, they had stitching on both sides, the rivet, and four staples! It doesn't ever come apart, though. Jeff

Just curious, where would you put the key holder? Jeff

A splash suppressor, is that a silencer for a water-gun? Seriously, though, could you just hot-melt glue a piece of felt to the inside where the thread exits, to wipe the excess off the thread before it exits the pot? Any excess would drop back into the pot. Jeff

Nice bag! I would bevel the edges and do some kind of edge finish, doesn't take that much time, and really kicks up the over impression of the work. If I thought I'd put my iPad in a sleeve, I'd make one! But I know me... Jeff

Well, the wider the fold is at the top of the belt loop, the less the sheath will wobble front to back. As you can see with the KaBar sheath, (USMC knife), the fold is fairly narrow, and there is a hole at the tip for a cord to tie around the leg. All the years my brother carried this knife in the Marines, he never used a cord, and doesn't remember anyone else doing it either. He didn't do much slogging in the jungle, though, he was an aviation type. There's a LOT of sheath makers on this forum, so feel free to ask more questions as you move forward with your sheath! Jeff

I don't believe there is any particular rule. It's whatever the wearer, and maker decide it to be. The sheaths I've made, are based on how the original cheap sheath held the knife. Here are a few of mine for example. They are more like your second example than the first one.

This is the best video on beveling I've seen. www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oC5VytYiSg It really opened my eyes on the subject. Jeff

personally, I've had better results with Resolene over Tan Kote. That's just me.

That's a tough one. I've done that too. Also the other version, last hole too far from the tip. I tend to leave extra for a "carry" belt, so if they add a holster, the strap is still long enough to leave enough billet with the added thickness of the holster or any mag holders. Not an issue everywhere, I realize. You don't have control over everything the end user will use the belt for, so you can only go with the averages. Jeff

"The only problem I see is I should move the design up a little toward the buckle to catch the end of the strap better. I don’t know why I didn’t see that before? Thanks again." I wouldn't worry about that. I've thought that too, and when moving it toward the buckle, I thought it was too tight on the heel of the buckle. I'd leave it. Jeff

Well, that's nice! It's definitely yours now!

Mutt beat me to it! OOOH, and AWWWWW! for sure. I'm liking that stitching pattern on the buckle fold. I'm going to try that tomorrow for possible inclusion in my repertoire. I usually stitch the full perimeter of the belts, but for when I don't, well, that would just be the cat's meow. Jeff

Interesting, I know a lot of field workers around here, I'll have ask around! Thanks for the info. Jeff

Well done!

You're young, you'll soon learn to NEVER ask that question. For instance, the wind could catch that buckle, and who knows where you'd end up! Seriously, though, nice work, as always. Can't wait to see what you come up with next. BTW, we were up in Steamboat Springs over the weekend for a conference, and at dinner, Jenny pulled out her new pen...well, everyone had to try it! Jenny says she's never had a pen that wrote so easily and smoothly. Excellent choice on the cartridge/refill! I keep threatening to make her a custom wet-molded case for it, but she won't have it. She loves the pull-up leather one. Jeff

Outstanding! Now I'm thinking about making a model of my airplane out of leather... I spent quite a bit of time in the Ventura area in the '60's. I couldn't go back, though. Jeff

I didn't mean free-handed without a line to follow! Heaven's, no. And, when I saw that pic, my first thought was, "well, yeah, the APC or whatever is heavy, but they'll still have take into account the weight of the buckle!"

I was also going to say that there are precious few spaces that aren't textured. Sometimes, less is more. A little more space between the mulesfoot impressions will tone it down a bit also. I too have a problem with trying to do too much. Then, when I see some work with little tooling/texturing, I'm amazed. Jeff

Actually, how do you bend over with that buckle? I've been planning on doing a decorative stitch like that serpentine one you have going there, I assume you layed it out then free-handed it with your 4500? BTW, here's a pic of when I last saw a belt that strong used...

Nice work, that old one held up extremely well!

Interesting, I never thought of using a template. I'll have to give it a try next time. Jeff

That's a great first bag! I'm thinking with what you've learned on this one, the next one will be fantastic. Jeff

How's the firmness of the leather? Did you line it with something else? I can see where the skirt would help stiffen the back side, but with only the double layer at the muzzle end of the holster, what keeps the top of the rig formed? I've got an old pair of boots looking for a new life, that's why I'm asking! Jeff