alpha2

I just did my first belt on the new Cowboy. I had practiced on 4 different practice ends first, and unfortunately, every one of them worked perfectly at the tip. I was concerned that the stitch length would put the hole in other than the right spot. Well, every one worked out, so I went for it. Unfortunately, THIS time, of course, it didn't work out. I tried to make the most of it, and it's not totally horrible, but not what I wanted. So, what is the procedure for making the turn at the point, if the stitches don't cooperate? I tried to intentionally mess one of the practice pieces up, just so I could make it work out right, and ended up skipping a stitch. I suspect that it involved raising the presser foot, and the needle, and aligning it by hand. That is what I did on the practice piece that caused a skipped stitch. Obviously did something wrong! Any video on the process that any of you are aware of? I couldn't find one. thanks, Jeff

"Kinda" related...I will set a tool aside after use and tell myself, "I'll strop this now, and it'll be ready to go next time I need it". I've got four in that pile right now.

Good to know! Thanks.

Thanks! Looks like I'll be making a holster for my brother's LC9s.

Yes, mine has the ridge, and it does put a groove in the pencil lead. I think they explained the reason for it on their web page, I did have a conversation with them about the sharp edges, they said the primary use of the template is for marking and cutting thin fabric for their kites, and they help hold the fabric in place while cutting. I guess we're kind of re-purposing them for our use. I passed on the larger template too, way pricey. Jeff

Nice job on the software! Looks like LC9 has been a good gun for you. Question, is the holster the same for the LC9s? Jeff

I imagine if you were to do a "surprise inspection", a lot of the shops wouldn't be so tidy! Mine, for instance. That's the only upside to a tiny shop, you can only make so much mess before you're forced to do something about it! Jeff

Professional looking job there!

I got that one too, from Windfire...I filed off the sharp edges because I use it on veg tanned leather, that has been cased, and don't need the sharp edges making imprints on my work. Just a heads up.

Sno Seal worked just fine decades ago in Michigan. We used it on everything. Because everything in Michigan got wet. A lot. It says "ORIGINAL Bees Wax Waterproofing...Hmm, my solution has beeswax. Looks like they just did the work for me. But, my in-laws with the bees really love giving me the beeswax. They like to see it put to good use. Lip balm is great...but so limited.

I use a mixture of beeswax, neetsfoot oil, paraffin and glycerin. It restores some of the softness lost to alcohol dyes, and gives it some water resistance. It does make whatever color you have, a bit darker, though. I plan for that. There's also Fiebings spray finish. I've used that a lot in the past. Numerous light coats, buffed between.

Wait, what?? You ALWAYS need to buy a new tool.

There should be a tension adjustment for the presser foot force. I'm guessing, it's the spring tensioned thingie at the top of the machine. (At least that's where it is on the leather machines). If it's just "sharp edges" on the presser feet, smoothing it may help. Otherwise, it will need the force reduced. You have your own "green machine" now! There are a lot of experts on various machines here on the forum. I'm sure some will check on this! Jeff

I used the glue tape on mine, seems to be fine so far. There isn't really any force against the bottom of the sleeve, unless you jam them in everytime. None of the force would have the effect of pulling away from the tape, just in shear. Jeff

Binford WISHES they had one of these brutes!

Very nice. I recognize that buckle now, too. I well be ordering some of those!

Thanks, GP85. Next up, I guess, is one for my Smith 685+. It's hard to to do that 'cause I already have a nice Galco leather holster for it. It's somewhat "boring", though.

Thanks, guys! But, mutt, "there can be only one":

Latest holster. I'm also finishing up a pancake style for a Glock 26, but I have to hand stitch it, as I can't figure out how to get the machine stitch line close enough to the wet-molded top piece. It's a flat-backed holster, so the top piece is quite raised from the flaps. I have both right and left presser feet, but can't make the turns without the feet hitting the raised part. I could start and stop stitch lines, changing feet between lines, but that would take way too much time, and it would look stupid, also. I thought about getting the in-line feet, but the rear inline foot would be too far behind the needle for some areas, and if I just used the front foot, I couldn't see the stitch line. Still, there's not a lot of stitching on a pancake holster, so not a big deal!

Looks great!

I could have used that yesterday. Nice point.

I made my wife a nice holster for a Ruger Single Six for Valentine's day. She says she doesn't have a Ruger Single Six. Lucky me, I actually do. Kidding, I'm kidding! I actually made her a pancake holster for her Glock 26. Apparently she doesn't have one of those, either. Guess who does? Kidding, I'm kidding! I am still in trouble for spending what I did on a REALLY nice pen for her Birthday. She hates it when I tell her I got her something...months before the occasion. So she got it for Valentine's Day.

My only experience with them was excellent as far as customer service goes. The hide I received was clearly marked 7-8oz, but was actually mostly 5-6 with a small section of 7oz. I can't fault them for not measuring every hide that goes out. I kept it for other purposes, but still needed a 7-8.

I wouldn't know, it's been SOME TIME since was "a little younger". But, on the other hand...retirement ROCKS!!! I've been puttering around in the leather shop since the first of the year. I'm okay with that!

I don't have a problem with the round holes, but the ovals are a challenge. I've made a template from leather to help, but it's still slightly "ambiguous".