alpha2

One more thing, although the water based over oil...that should be enough. I usually let coats dry overnight or 24 hours between applications. Even with heating, sometimes not letting the drying occur over long enough time will cause any number of issues. I'm basically in WAY to big of a rush to get to the next step, and have had to really change my attitude regarding drying times. Heck, I just did it two days ago with Tan-Kote too early over some dye. You'd think I'd learn, but then you don't know how bad I've the rushing thing.

Right! Somewhere near Cicely, Alaska.

This one is 6-7, but I've gone to 7-8 since then.

I don't have anything like that, but if you do find one, remember to add some to the dimensions for the lace vs. stitching. That looks pretty simple, you could probably work something up with some posterboard or something and make your own. You'd need the speedloaders, of course.

Nice job!

Lucky gun! Fine looking holster. Was that light brown?

Quick loader? Like for a revolver?

I use a Craftool #07, 7/32".

There are a lot of plans by Googling, or on Pinterest. I got my plans off of Pinterest, then adapted them to my height and size requirements. A good solid top is essential. I used MDF, well supported by 2x4's underneath. The desk is where I do my stamping, and it's not ideal, as it's not supported in the middle where I stamp. Ideally it would be supported right under the area where the stamping is done. It's going to have to do for now, I can't spend that much time standing and bending over the actual worktable to stamp.

What Matt said. Also, you might be able to trim the larger piece to the size/shape of the smaller piece, if it's a back and front type of sheath. If it's a folded sheath, that still might work. It's actually common to make one piece slight larger than the other, so you can trim the edges even after they're glued/stitched. I put painters tape on the back of my stamped pieces. When I pull the tape off, it raises some leather, so I slightly wet it and use a glass burnisher to smooth it back down. Inside of a sheath might not matter, but you don't want a surface that will hold a lot of moisture. Oh, and pics are not required. They are highly recommended, though! You'll find that the forum creatures here a a visual bunch. Jeff

And, the flat bottom keeps it upright in the pocket. That feature REALLY makes it easier to draw! My laser doesn't work, it just died one day, and it's not the battery, but no matter, you couldn't see it except at night. Smith soon changed to a different vendor.

Well, the blade is what is doing the cutting, and needing the stropping. If you make sure to get the right diameter shank, a really fine blade will make the difference. I might try that myself. I think there are two major shank diameters. Just to have to make sure I pick the right one!

I have a Bodyguard holster for my LCP. Only because it was mis-marked at the store...in wrong bag, anyway. The LCP fit fine, not exactly like in my wifes actual LCP one, but I never noticed until she got hers and I tried it, found it had a different model number and researched it. The LCP fits just a bit lower in the right one than the Bodyguard one, as I recall. Or maybe it's the other way around. The LCP is smaller then the BG, this I know.

The Tandy store in Cheyenne told me Tan Kote wasn't available anymore...Wanna bet? I thin dyes just because it saves me a lot of money. I thin resolene to spray, but I also thin it for other ways of applying it. I mostly spray because I don't get the little bubbles on the surface when I do. Your stuff looks great! Don't change anything.

My wife and I have a couple of this type of holster, and they weren't glued before stitching. The sewn corners have started to loosen up allowing the holster portion to move relative to the back panel. So, rivets. Too bad, too, 'cause that would have been the shortest stitch line I've ever had to do! The flare is for the front sight on the second iteration of the LCP. Not to be confused with the LCP II. The first iteration barely had any sights at all, and would not require any flare for sure. The draw is actually not bad, as the only attachment of the holster to the back piece is at the lower corner, allowing you to easily get you fingers between the two parts and draw the gun. Like any "draw from concealment", a bit of practice will help. Pretty simple, though. If you've ever carried a sub-compact in a pocket, when you're standing, they're mostly okay. If you sit, with it in a front or side cargo pocket, or bend over with one in a back pocket, they print pretty good. This even with one of those soft pocket holsters, or one that doesn't cover the outside of the grip. I just retired from a job where I was not "allowed" to carry at work. Did for years, no issues. Printing was not an option.

You pull that in Zihuatanejo today and the Cartels will have you hanging from an overpass, just sayin'. Six fingers is a total gang sign.

The voice of "GOD"...heady stuff.

The holster itself is glued, formed and finished separately. It's riveted on at the last step. I glue the holster together, then wet-form, then finish. When all the parts/sub-assemblies are done, I rivet the parts together. I have tested the mag release to death, as that is one of my biggest issues. A carry gun is NO HELP if the already low round count mag is ejected on the pull. Or, worse, sometime during the day without your knowledge. I couldn't get it to release. I did do some additional boning to relieve any pressure on it during the wet-forming state, though. Now, it's more like an additional protection bit. Jeff

Non-printing pocket holster for Ruger LCP. Lightweight molded holster with slightly heavier back panel, designed to prevent printing and keep holster upright in pocket.

Sir? I'm SIR now? We had this discussion... Sheesh, I'm retired for a week, and I'm "Sir". I am depressed. BTW, you inspired me to get the rest of the Douglas Adams books, finished another one today! Thanks! You're on FIRE! Ha!

Looks yummy!

I believe you meant "emojinal handicap". So, what're you going to do now, that you've caught up with the rest of existence? Take up leatherwork?

Thanks, guys! Every one gets a little bit better. Most of the time.

I actually tried tubular rivets first. Had a bear of a time getting them to set properly without leaning over something awful. I only had one length, so had to grind them down and de-burr them. They were Tandy rivets and a Tandy setter, I don't know if that had anything to do with it. I'll practice on some scrap today and see if I can get better results. I had layers of leather built up just like the holster when I tried the last time, and tried it a couple of times before going to the screws. The only black screws I had on hand were nut-plates and screws, and the wrong length. Time to go shopping...again!

Rockoboy beat me to it. I'm slowin' down! Actually, they seem to get a lot of it from Brazil and other South American countries. Usually they will say in their literature where they source it, usually. It will often be on the leather itself, but that doesn't help you if you're not in one their stores. I know for me that I have a hard time sorting through their stuff and finding a decent hide without a lot of waste. At a premium price.