alpha2

I went with MDF, but I've also been cutting long lines in it for straps from double-backs. It can be sanded out, or reversed, but now I wish I hadn't done it, because of the raised edges of the cuts, and what it can do to veg-tanned leather.

Eric, unrelated, but your link to wordpress comes up blank.

Extra credit for quoting Douglas Adams.

google usmc leather stamp. Lots of results. Some make a better impression than others, from what I can see.

Thanks for the tip. I usually use 50/50 sprayed resolene too. Found this Tan Kote yesterday so I figured I'd give it a try. It's definitely different stuff. It says it can be sprayed on...I can only imagine how much it needs to be thinned for that! I did get the streaking to buff out pretty well.

Smaller pieces only in the basement...then the garage for the wings and fuselage. I did have a little issue with the fuselage, however. It's built upside down in a jig, and I put the access hole for the elevator bellcrank in the wrong place...so now there's a hole on one side at the right height, and one on the other side that is at "not the right height". I imagine the present owner is scratching his head over that one.

I finally found some, used it also for the first time. It is THICK! It says to let it set...it was so thick and streaked I tried to smooth it with a cloth. Big mistake, it streaked. How do you people apply this stuff?

I WAS going to ask who's body was hidden behind the sheet! I love this thread, some shops make me happier about my space, others, not so much. I don't know if they still ship them this way, but when I was building my airplane, I went to the local motorcycle/snow machine dealer, and found they get their stock in steel frames. Perfect for a table support. It's worth a try. Easier than building one out of lumber. They don't break down, so you need a pickup or better to haul one home. I had a couple of them for bases in my Kitty Hawk/Wright Brothers shop. Also, while I'm thinking back that far............(Yes, a LONG time ago)...I got some countertops, solid as heck, from a local cabinet/countertop outfit. Mistakes, over-runs, client changed their mind, etc. They were happy to get rid of them. These make an excellent work surface, they are heavy, solid, and cheap. What's not to love? Jeff

I was going to say! You weren't fooling anyone with that clean shop! I wish I had that room available.

Great idea with the curtain rod and craft paper. I might have to incorporate that into my space, somewhere...

I wish I could get my stamping that straight! I know...practice. I'm liking that beader, too.

Did you happen to stitch it when it was wet? That puckering is more than I would have expected. For a first wet-forming, that's not bad!

I went right to the maul handle, too! Nice.

I was thinking I was at the point that I needed to start moving into the basement as well, until I saw these shops! Turns out I have room for A LOT more stuff in my shop! I need to find room for a Cowboy machine, likely will move the file cabinets to the basement. Ideally, the closet would be emptied and the Cowboy would go in there..."she who must be obeyed" says it ain't gonna happen.

As shown, I use an oval #07, 7/32. I also use rounds, but I find that the oval lies smoother, so stick with that unless someone requests something different. Remember, there is no "right or wrong".

Ha! Jumped out at me, too! I didn't know I had a vintage leather tool! Does anyone actually flare copper pipe anymore? I haven't used mine for decades! That strap cutter is nice, though.

True dat, oldnslow! There's leatherwork...then there's sharpening. More effort expended for the latter, leads to less effort expended for the former. By the way, the keyhole punch is NOT the same size as the stud! As I recall, the 7.0 punch is for the 12mm stud. Don't quote me on that, it's the only one I've actually done, and don't remember exactly what the relationship was, but there's a good list of those on the Tandy website.

This is what I'm talking about. The ball stud stamp needs to be correct for the size stud you are using, as is the oval, however, I only use this oval punch for all my belts and it works fine.

The oval is the most common, but just last week, I saw a belt with the hole for the Sam Browne stud. That's a first for me, but apparently it's a thing! The one for the stud is a hole with a cut line adjacent to it. It allows the round stud to push through, then the reduced diameter below the round stud holds the belt. (O-) kind of like that, but with the line intersecting the hole. This would allow a ball stud, instead of the typical small rod on the back of a trophy type of buckle. Superpacker, is that what you're looking for? Pics?

Those are sometimes called a "beader", due to the raised bead between the lines. Your picture looks like a square depression, though.

Anything dyed needs a day or two to dry thoroughly, then buffed relentlessly until no more dye comes off on the cloth. Then, buff some more, and only when the cloth is clean after buffing, apply a sealer like tan kote. Before use, check again with a clean cloth to be sure it doesn't bleed. It's a lot of buffing.

Wow! That looks labor intensive!

The guy in Scotland that does videos has one on flat braids. The one I saw was actually a round braid that transitions into a flat braid. Interesting, I did a small one, just to prove to myself that I could. I'd go to youtube and search for flat braid. It's UK Saddlery. It's called a fishtail braid.

That's true, Mark842. Pieces do generally need to be skived to crease and fold them.

Those holes were intended for lacing, not stitching. By the time you found a thread that was appropriate for those holes, the thread would be so thick it would look very strange. With a kit, you are locked into what was originally intended. Do you have any other leather in that thickness? Cut out your own rectangle and do it your way.