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battlemunky

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Everything posted by battlemunky

  1. Looks great. I love that leather, is that Pueblo?
  2. Looks pretty good to me. I think you blended the black and yellow airbrushing with the beach/sky and sun/sea combination pretty good!.
  3. I've got the Sinabroks which are very similar to the KS Blade Punch. I love mine. I had them about a week when I drove them into my granite...juuuust barely. Luckily I was able to fix them but my soul cried a tiny bit, not gonna lie. They are great tools and I imagine the KS won't make your hands stink of brass like the Sinabroks do. Enjoy them
  4. Yep, I've mixed them too. It gives it a nice contrast depending on the item but they will corrode a bit worse faster but they do look really good.
  5. I still haven't learned. I'm happy with all my top notch gear but I still can't resist buying cheap Chinese crap and then upgrading it to the good stuff later. Its a tax on the higher end tools really.
  6. Letter should work as well as A4. Set printer to 100% or actual size and it should print the same on letter as it would on A4.
  7. Stohlman's got the design in his "how to handsew leather" book. I don't know if it is still free on Tandy or not but a hint is that those designs are out there on the interwebs if you don't find the book. Vergez Blanchard wind dividers are about as solid of a tool as I've ever used. I have Barry King's sewing awl and it is really well made as well, so there is hope for the future.
  8. Also, instead of leaning heavily/copying someone else's design, there are many free wallet patterns out on the interwebs to choose from. There are even more for small fees ($5 here and there) that you will own the rights to sell the items that you make from it. After all, we are looking out for each other here too, right? Some are even no-sew versions. Try pinterest too, there are some up there too. I recommend Nigel Armitage's wallet pack and anything from Dieselpunk.ro. Dieselpunk.ro has a free wallet on his site right now.
  9. Mine would have to be my round awl. I got it in a lot several years ago. It's sharp as hell and I use it probably more than any other tool in my shop. I poke holes with it, trace with it, score with it, prick with it, stir paint with it, apply paint with it...I just like it and use it way more than I ever expected. Just a lowly round awl.
  10. Really nice, especially since you have some reluctance, you surely can't tell.
  11. 6-7 would be fine but belly stretches a bit so keep that in mind. It should harden up pretty good after wet molding but keep it in mind. You'll definitely want a retaining strap to keep from losing your shears. Yeah, kydex is cool stuff but it has it's downside too. Being in FL, it easily gets hot enough in direct sun, especially in a car or truck box, to heat it up to where it'll lose it's retention and shape...I didn't even think of that until just now.
  12. With a hardier blade it really isn't as huge of a concern @Hardrada so don't sweat pasting the grain side. Besides, it'll wear off. You got a link for that round knife by any chance? Me likey.
  13. For weight, you could probably get some kydex and make a snap in piece and mate that with a dangler type set up made from leather. Especially if the leather gets soaked with sweat or the sporadic rain shower you'd only be dealing with the leather dangler rig and not the whole sheath. Just spit balling. Whatever you end up doing, please post pics.
  14. Is weight an option? If not, you could build up several layers of leather (it wouldn't be too heavy, probably under a pound total for the whole sheath) behind the handles to make it all sit flat. Then wet form the blade portion as chuck123wapati outlined. Then you could add a strap like the image he posted. It's a optional approach to what has already been discussed.
  15. @Hardrada, if you are using it for leather tools and hardier blades the flesh side with rouge is perfect. If you are going to use it for straight razor stropping you'll need an untreated/unpasted grain side for everyday shaving but the pasted side for when you hone a fresh bevel and you want a stage prior to shaving. The saying in straight shaving goes that honing is for the razor and stropping is for the face.
  16. @Hardrada, newspaper will work so there really is no "wrong", just different levels of fancy. I use a pasted strop for my straight razors and my leather tools, and have yet to damage either, so its just the flesh side of some veg-tan with green paste on it. I've glued the hair side to a piece of oak even, making a paddle strop. I prefer a paddle strop to a strap strop just because it is easier to maintain form on a paddle and that helps keep from rolling the edge, especially for straight razor stropping. For leather tools/knives/other hardier blades I don't think it matters too much unless the blade gets ridiculously thin like a straight razor's does.
  17. I have brass rivets. I think they are similar to copper. A bit harder to cut but seem the same when the beat down begins.
  18. Agree with all of the above, good looking pieces. I love those scales, is it walnut? Is there a belt loop on the sheath or is it just a slip?
  19. That's a really cool configurator tool you got there @Rreyes3d.
  20. Beautiful work. The only real question I have is about a drain hole for the knife side. I also have zero idea about sailing and imagine huge waves crashing over the deck and narrowly escaping boat capsizing waves every other minute or so, filling that sheath with seawater rather often. I'm likely wrong and it ain't an issue. :D
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