LatigoAmigo

No reason that it wouldn't work. Probably don't want to use too heavy a leather, and something supple that would wrap nicely, so you might want to consider a chrome-tan leather, 4-6 ounces, although plenty of other leathers would serve your needs as well.

I have never used Fiebing's Antique Finish on any veg-tan leather, but I've used it plenty on latigo in years past. I took a very different approach, and applied very light layers, swirling in just a small amount at a time. This allowed me to feather the layers and work out any uneven color.

The only way to really know the thickness is by using a gauge designed to provide you with that information, typically in ounces and millimeters.

We are sure making progress in the world of lasers. The only serious comment I have is on the importance of ventilation, which this video does not stress (in fact says you can run this in an enclosed space... that could turn out to be fatal). There was a double fatality in Berkeley last year when two people and their pets were found dead in their apartment. The possible culprit? Their unvented laser cutter. For price comparison, here is a link to a laser supplier in Sacramento, CA who deals in CO2 lasers. Prices do not include the very important "chiller" which can run another $500, a ventilation fan and associated duct work, or shipping (which can add up). https://www.lightobject.com/Laser-Machines-C37.aspx

The belly section of the hide will not be as strong as the shoulder/back, yet be the exact same thickness/weight. So I'd say there is not "a rule of thumb for the the strength of leather at a given thickness/weight."

We've probably all been in a similar situation, so my solution is to always construct a prototype first. It adds to the build time, but it helps to rectify any problems before I start cutting leather. I built it with Marsh oil stencil board, available at some art supply stores or online. It comes in big sheets, is thin, strong and relatively cheap.

I have found that it takes multiple cuts to get through some leathers, and not always because of the thickness of the leather. I cut chrome tanned and latigo leathers most often, typically in the 4-7 oz. range, and find that it can take as many as 5 passes with a 100-watt CO2 laser to get through the material. I had some stuffed 6 oz. Chromexcel that took 10 passes to cut through. Cutting leather with a laser is just full of surprises.

Your questions should be for the folks at the Hide House. I wouldn't get too hung up on the tanning process but on the result. You might be able to register with them and qualify for their wholesale pricing. They have been in the leather business for a very long time and know their products very well. And they import leather from all over the world.

I think you are looking a upholstery leather. It is available by mail order through the Hide House in Napa. https://hidehouse.com/

So what did you replace the Chinese laser with? I'm familiar with Trotec lasers and what a wonderful job they can do , but from my experience it appears to be nearly ten times the price of a Chinese equivalent ($36,000 vs. $4,500).

I've signed up. Illustrator is a powerful program, and this looks like a very interesting class...

That could be the one, but I'm not sure because I bought it from their store (when they were in Petaluma, CA) not from their website. You might give them a call, they might be able to provide you with a sample (nice people, family-owned business). I still have the hide as I've never come up with something to make with it, but in my youth yellow latigo was all I ever used for women's handbags.

I bought some yellow latigo from Maverick Leather a few years ago that would work very nicely in this situation. The leather is more supple than other latigos that I've owned, and looks like it would age very well. I almost cried when I saw it because it was so soft and silky smooth, yet heavy (5-6 oz) and durable.

The most durable leather I work with (and always my favorite) is latigo, which is chrome tanned then veg tanned. Hide House carries a nice selection.

Some people rave about Inscape. Download page here: https://inkscape.org/en/release/0.92.3/

That is the nicest valet tray I have ever seen. Beautiful work.

Interesting looking table. Links don't always work over time, so I'll post the photos for you.

Is this workshop going to be at your place in Rhodes?

Check out Leather Craft Pattern. Here is where you will find their version of the Birkin Bag in PDF format: http://www.leathercraftpattern.com/leather-downloadable-patterns/Leather-bag-patterns/leather-bag-pattern-pdf-download-ACC-20

You might try this link. I came across it doing research but have no experience with this company. http://www.leathercraftpattern.com/Leather-supplies/Pattern-hardware/ACC-20-bag-whole-kit-hardwares

My wife has a ceramics studio that can get cold and we have had great success with radiant heat, which is pointed toward her wheel, her tools and her clay. At one point the radiant heater died, and at the time all I could find to replace it with was a convection heater. That did not work nearly as well. Sure the room warmed up, but her tools and the clay did not pick up any of the heat. Radiant heat warms the object, convection heat warms the room. The choice between propane, natural gas and electricity is going to be based on the available power source. But, for what it is worth, each plug-in, 120 volt heater will draw approximately 15 amps, so your electric service will have to be able to handle the load of several heaters. The advantage of electric is that there is no ventilation required. Gas is a whole other topic, with issues of plumbing, thermostats, ventilation, etc. Best to contact your service provider for a their recommendation.

There is no image to view, so one can't see what you are referring to in this post. But regarding laser engravers, some communities have "maker spaces" where laser cutters/engravers are available for use. It is a great way to learn how they work and see if one might belong in your future.

This table shows the radius of the circle based on the number of stamp imprints that will fit into that circle. Hope it helps. # of Stamp Imprints Radius in mm 8 15.28 9 17.19 10 19.10 11 21.01 12 22.92 13 24.83 14 26.74 15 28.65 16 30.56 17 32.47 18 34.38 19 36.29 20 38.20 21 40.11 22 42.02 23 43.93 24 45.84 25 47.75 26 49.66 27 51.57 28 53.48 29 55.39 30 57.30

Are you talking about Tandy's Leather Tanner's Bond Adhesive Tape for example? It gets some pretty good reviews on Amazon. How does it differ from "ordinary" double-sided tape, like that found at an art supply store?