LatigoAmigo

I'm not sure if you will find my comments helpful, but here is my two cents... These questions cannot be definitively answered because the answers depend heavily upon what you are making. Most leathers could certainly hold up against some sweaty gym clothes. Do you intend to allow your leatherwork to get drenched in the rain? Canvas is available in different weights and colors, and could be punched and stitched without too many problems, especially waxed canvas. A large bag would typically need more support than a small bag, but it also depends on the design and the leather used. I have found that the California Latigo from The Hide House can pretty much stand up by itself (it is considered belt leather). As to stiffeners, I have limited experience, but know that not all stiffeners adhere equally to all leathers, plus stiffeners vary in rigidity. You will have to experiment to see what works best for your project. The iron-on stiffeners are made of fabric and should not break, but could come loose if they got wet. The only way I know to keep leather straps from stretching is to sew an additional layer to the strap, and for further strength, include something like nylon webbing between the layers. I hope you find my feedback helpful.

It's sure worth a try. The paint used for screen printing is referred to as "ink" and is water based. Some of it can be heat-set which might help it adhere to the leather. Since a leather hide is not completely flat, you might be challenged to keep your image from distorting. Here is a link to the topic of screen printing on leather: https://jacquardproducts.com/forums/discussion/39874/printing-on-leather/p1

I don't have much experience with veg-tan, but do have experience with latigo and chrome-tan leathers. Because of the oils and dyes that are a part of the tanning process, the leather is sealed to some degree. This keeps these leathers from accepting the heat processed glues uses for sealing vinyl.

The first time I walked into the Hide House (in Napa, CA) I said to myself, "If I ever needed to reupholster a 1948 Jaguar, this is where I'd get the leather." I don't know if this helps, because you didn't mention what what you were working on.

The Hide House (hidehouse.com) carries a "Designer Latigo" in a variety of colors, including red, blue, lavender, pink, white, purple, orange and green.

I can't draw a straight line, so I rely on Adobe Illustrator to do my drawing for me. It is not easier or faster, but the results are BETTER. Worth the extra time (says the hobbyist). Plus the output can be duplicated, and the patterns can be easily scaled.

This is an interesting thread. Makes me wonder if hot glue (from a hot gluing gun) might work. It dries slightly pliable, and should adhere well to both layers of leather. It comes in different grades, low and high temperature.

Does Inkscape have "offset paths"? It is a feature of Illustrator that I find invaluable for creating seam allowances.

I'm sure many will find this post very useful, but you might want to clarify that these applications are for veg-tanned leathers, and do not work as well on chrome-tanned leathers.

I've discovered that latigo comes in many forms and finishes, so there is no one answer as to the best leather conditioner to use. But what I do know is that I would rather have the leather finish come off on my bench than have it come off on my customer, so I thuroughly clean the leather before any construction, typically using "magic erasers" and saddle soap (in a spray bottle). It can have an effect on the pre-finish, but in the end this allows for the leather to more evenly absorb any finish that I might apply. One trick that I use when applying oil finishes is rather than have to wait (up to 24 hours) to let the leather absorb the oil, I use a dryer rack and run our clothes dryer on low for 30-60 minutes to warm up the leather and encourage penetration. Works like a charm.

Have you looked at Maverick's lace? http://maverickleathercompany.com/

No reason that it wouldn't work. Probably don't want to use too heavy a leather, and something supple that would wrap nicely, so you might want to consider a chrome-tan leather, 4-6 ounces, although plenty of other leathers would serve your needs as well.

I have never used Fiebing's Antique Finish on any veg-tan leather, but I've used it plenty on latigo in years past. I took a very different approach, and applied very light layers, swirling in just a small amount at a time. This allowed me to feather the layers and work out any uneven color.

The only way to really know the thickness is by using a gauge designed to provide you with that information, typically in ounces and millimeters.

We are sure making progress in the world of lasers. The only serious comment I have is on the importance of ventilation, which this video does not stress (in fact says you can run this in an enclosed space... that could turn out to be fatal). There was a double fatality in Berkeley last year when two people and their pets were found dead in their apartment. The possible culprit? Their unvented laser cutter. For price comparison, here is a link to a laser supplier in Sacramento, CA who deals in CO2 lasers. Prices do not include the very important "chiller" which can run another $500, a ventilation fan and associated duct work, or shipping (which can add up). https://www.lightobject.com/Laser-Machines-C37.aspx

The belly section of the hide will not be as strong as the shoulder/back, yet be the exact same thickness/weight. So I'd say there is not "a rule of thumb for the the strength of leather at a given thickness/weight."

We've probably all been in a similar situation, so my solution is to always construct a prototype first. It adds to the build time, but it helps to rectify any problems before I start cutting leather. I built it with Marsh oil stencil board, available at some art supply stores or online. It comes in big sheets, is thin, strong and relatively cheap.

I have found that it takes multiple cuts to get through some leathers, and not always because of the thickness of the leather. I cut chrome tanned and latigo leathers most often, typically in the 4-7 oz. range, and find that it can take as many as 5 passes with a 100-watt CO2 laser to get through the material. I had some stuffed 6 oz. Chromexcel that took 10 passes to cut through. Cutting leather with a laser is just full of surprises.

Your questions should be for the folks at the Hide House. I wouldn't get too hung up on the tanning process but on the result. You might be able to register with them and qualify for their wholesale pricing. They have been in the leather business for a very long time and know their products very well. And they import leather from all over the world.

I think you are looking a upholstery leather. It is available by mail order through the Hide House in Napa. https://hidehouse.com/

So what did you replace the Chinese laser with? I'm familiar with Trotec lasers and what a wonderful job they can do , but from my experience it appears to be nearly ten times the price of a Chinese equivalent ($36,000 vs. $4,500).

I've signed up. Illustrator is a powerful program, and this looks like a very interesting class...

That could be the one, but I'm not sure because I bought it from their store (when they were in Petaluma, CA) not from their website. You might give them a call, they might be able to provide you with a sample (nice people, family-owned business). I still have the hide as I've never come up with something to make with it, but in my youth yellow latigo was all I ever used for women's handbags.

I bought some yellow latigo from Maverick Leather a few years ago that would work very nicely in this situation. The leather is more supple than other latigos that I've owned, and looks like it would age very well. I almost cried when I saw it because it was so soft and silky smooth, yet heavy (5-6 oz) and durable.