LatigoAmigo

This happens when I stitch a gusset, but is not so apparent as when braiding. You might have to do a little math and reconstruct the gusset so the holes on the curves are closer together.

Those are gorgeous. My best guess is that this look is created with paint and/or resist. The leather does not look to be affected/damaged, but looks like it was antiqued. Maybe not so different than sponge painting on a wall using leather dyes, but finished with a blow-torch.

Luck horse. Very nice.

You are using a chrome-tanned leather, which is naturally softer than veg-tanned leather. There is nothing I know of that you can apply to the leather to make it stiffer, so when I need to firm up chrome-tanned leather, I line it with a fabric interfacing or a thin leather. In your case that would be difficult, so you will want to visualize the finished product and know that by the time the hide is folded and sewn together, it will look and work great. Keep in mind that hides do not have uniform firmness; the shoulders and back are more firm than the belly.

To be honest, this looks like a pretty advanced project for a beginner. Leather working appears to be pretty easy at first glance, but takes a certain amount of experience to gain knowledge of the skills, tools and materials in order to make something as sophisticated as the sleeve you are looking at, and have the result look professional. You will definitely want to make a prototype out of either cardboard or maybe canvas (I use "oilboard" that I get from an art supply) to get a sense of size, and to make sure that the various components line up the way you want. I have to build a prototype almost every time, as there is always some problem that I cannot see until I am holding the thing in my hands. You really don't want to waste your precious leather on a project with problems or errors.

What a beautiful saddle. Nice work, you should be proud.

Is this what you are looking for? I have two but haven't used them in years, and never used them much then, so they are both low mileage. I'd be glad to give one or both of them to you... just let me know.

This is clearly overdoing it. Since this is just your lining, you don't need to do two layers. Try this: go to Home Depot and buy the little bottle of Wedgewood Cement with the red label. Avoid the green label, it doesn't work as well. The little bottle is probably less than $5. Then test your process on a scrap piece of leather, while following the instructions on the bottle. You will find the materials will have set up in hours and be fully cured in one day.

I have used this product before and can say that when laminating felt to leather, it will be completely flexible. I have used various types of adhesive, and had varying results, mostly depending on the leather's ability to absorb the adhesive. One solution you might try is iron-on adhesive. You can find it available on Amazon. It should work like a charm. The felt is so soft and pliable that you shouldn't have any problems with the material buckling in the fold of your bag.

Pretty hard to not char the edges as the heat from the laser is what cuts the leather. Thinner leathers can be cut with less heat, and some leathers seem to pick up less charring than others, but there is always some residual effects from the laser cutting process.

Have you considered making them with a laser cutter? That would allow you to have various size and typeface options.

I like it very much, it is beautiful. But I do have a question about the construction. Why would you choose to stitch the sides then braid over the stitching? That adds a lot of time to the construction and seems redundant. Would you do it the same way if you were to make the bag again? Thanks for your reply.

When I was in the Navy we trained with you guys from the Coast Guard. Quite an elite unit, but what was confusing was that the uniforms looked like ours, except for a little white plop of something on the sleeve.

No questions, just compliments. Beautiful watchband, fantastic photos. Good work.

Very nice. I extracted these from your link (they don't always survive time). Thanks for sharing. .

Maybe this belongs on Facebook, but it has little relevance here. When I'm looking for leather work and leather worker's activity, this is not what I expect to find unless, of course, you are playing gut bucket bass in the band.

Oil-tanned leather is also drum dyed.

Wow, this is fabulous for a first bag, you are off to a great start in leather working. It's obvious that you have other talents as well, because your zipper installation, seams and edges look professional. Job well done.

Ventilation is a must! Some of the toxins put off by the objects cut/engraved by the laser can impair your health, and even take your life. This from the instructions for installing a Zing laser cutter (by EpilogLaser):

Somehow this conversation reminds me of a time at a crafts fair where a leather belt maker offered an assortment of belts with "free" buckles. So I asked him for my free buckle. "Oh," he said, "you have to buy a belt first." So much for free.

But don't you think that might help keep them in business? Don't we all want more and larger sales? Just askin'...

Nice to know how to shop smarter. Thanks for the tip.

That and a little dumb luck, but don't let it slow you down.

Different parts of the hide host different amounts of stretch. The shoulders and back tend not to stretch as much as the belly. Other considerations include the type of hide, the way the hide is tanned (veg-tan vs chrome-tan), and its weight (thickness). Maybe pre-stretching the piece before cutting would help.

I think the reason for the high cost, since you ordered a hide, is due to the shape of the package, which is non-standard.