LatigoAmigo

I could not agree more... but my solution is to buy in volume (usually X 10, but sometimes more), then I don't feel so bad about the shipping costs. Of course, I have a shop filled with buckles, snaps, rivets, rings and fasteners that I will probably never use, but I figure if I used it once, I might want to try it again. That rationale eases the pain.

A single postage stamp costs nearly as much as your buckle, so how would it be possible to ship for less than that? Throw in the packaging, labeling, insurance, overheads, etc., and you will know that we should all thank our lucky stars that Buckle Guy is in business to provide us with all of the wonderful products that they carry.

Those are FANTASTIC! Please tell me that you trained under a leather working master. I can't wait to see what else you have to offer.

You might ask your friends at Maverick's about their goat... thin and firm.

Not sure if this will be the right fit, but you might consider buying "The Art of Making Leather Cases, Vol. 1," a classic leather crafters' book, by Al Stohlman. It is available from Amazon for around $20.

All of my belts vary, so it seems there is no standard. By the looks of what you've done, I'd say these look just fine.

My hobby is printing, so then we get into the topic of color mode, which also has a impact on the file size. Changing from RGB, which is what cameras use, to CMYK, which is what printers use, has caused that 641 kB file to mushroom to 1.68 MB.

JPEGs are funny animals. I created a black 800 x 600 pixel image in Photoshop that had a file size of 17.2 kB, a white image the same size that was 11.7 kB, and then resized a high resolution image down to 800 x 600 and it was 641 kB. Go figure...

Would be, but sometimes you really want the detail to show up, so without doing a close-up, that calls for a higher resolution image. Maybe if it acted like an IPhone and offered various sizes... now that would make life easier for many of our fellow leather workers, and possibly allow us to see more of their work.

The size of an image in bytes is not directly related to that image's resolution, i.e., pixel dimension (width x height), and I read once that this site has pixel dimension limits (not sure what exactly those dimensions are off the top of my head), although from a thread I just read, the size limits are in bytes, but are different for members than for moderators. Plus, not everyone uses an IPhone to take their photos. Some of us, sometimes, use real cameras, although phone cameras are quickly catching up, if not surpassing, to the quality of stand-alone camera images.

Probably just cut a "V" into the webbing, then glued the cut edges together to create the taper. At least, that's what I would do.

That's one way to do it, but you don't really have control over the size, only that it can be made "smaller."

The actual size is much larger than a standard sheet of paper. In order to print it in actual size, you will need to "tile" it, which will print the image onto many sheets of standard (8 1/2 x 11) paper that you can tape or staple together, or better yet, you can have it printed on large format paper at a place like Kinko's. When you open the file, drag your cursor to the lower left of the image, and Acrobat will display the image size so you can see what to expect.

It may have worked once, but is now more than six years old. Using links to display photos/images is not the best idea, but sometimes people have problems getting images downloaded to this site due to their large size. Oh well.

Here are PDFs for the two pieces we've discussed, to your dimensions, so you can see what they might look like. I always have to make a prototype and sew it together before I cut any leather, as there always seems to be some necessary adjustments. This may or may not be exactly what you are looking for, but it has been fun for me to go through the exercise with you. I do, a Tuff Shed in the backyard, but I don't this to sell things, I just like designing. Small Backpack BackBottomFlap.pdf Small Backpack Front.pdf

...and here it is. I hadn't compensated for any volume inside the bag (sorry that my poor pea brain works this way, only one step at a time), so here is a revised front.

And this is what the back (to that front) might look like... This image doesn't look like it will match up to the front piece (because these are slightly different resolution JPEGs, but if you'd like I can post PDFs of these parts so you can print them out and see how close they match up. This design is still in the rough stage, and may need to tweaking, so please keep that in mind.

There are darts, and the piece might look something like this...

Apparently you are not the only person who loves this bag. I found the source of the photos you've posted, and they include a very telling photo of the inside of the bag. If you haven't seen this series of images, you should find them very revealing. https://the-gadgeteer.com/2017/07/26/saddleback-leather-thin-front-pocket-backpack-review/

This is foundational for leathercrafting, so with a little effort you should be able to figure it out. You might start out by going to a thrift store and purchasing a cheap handbag, then taking it apart to see how all the pieces fit. Take measurements before and after, to get a senst of proportions and seam allowances. That might help you to get a sense of what makes up the shape of that handbag. What is challenging (as least for me) is how "big" something really is. The sling bag pattern is pretty easy for an experienced leather worker to visualize, but is the work really begins when creating the exact pattern, with the proportions that you want. The various parts have to fit together (length, width, height), so, for example, the back/flap piece has to wrap around the body of the bag, and end up creating a the look you are after. The body has to fit just right so that the volume of the bag makes sense to the user. I have picked up various books on handbag construction, some at the local Joanne's Fabrics and Crafts, and others from Amazon. There must be many U-Tube videos on the subject, and I'm sure some Google pattern-making searches will bring you fruitful results.

I think the real problem is pressing the rivet. The setting would get crushed. Would something like a Chicago-screw meet your needs?

The adhesive will only stay where there is leather for it to stick to. No need to cut both.

You might change systems. Spell checkers come with Microsoft Word and Adobe InDesign, and they do not always agree, plus InDesign lets me add my own words. So we can legitimize "sprayless" if we want to. I love words and dictionaries, and especially how words change their meanings over time.

No, you would cut out your filigree, lay the adhesive sheet over the backside of that leather, then iron/press it on. Next you take the colored leather and place the colored side up against the adhesive, and press those two pieces of leather together... no fuss, no muss. All of this depends, of course, on the type of leather that you are using. I have not had success with some "oil-stuffed" leathers. You have a big advantage over me, as I am using a simple iron, and that makes it hard to apply an even temperature.

I used to live in a remote area, and encountered similar experiences to yours... for gas, clothes, etc. Isn't that the price you pay for the peace of mind that you might get from living near the beach in France? Just sayin'... If you were to ask me, and I know you're not, I'd say "bite the bullet" and order the product from Amazon, you will be happy. Well, maybe, but what life is worth living without rolling the dice once in a while?