LatigoAmigo

The link conntects to these images:

It is not a "project book" with directions on how to make belts, but demonstrates many, many types of braiding, some of which lend themselves to making a belt. It does show how to make lace and has photos of many woven belts. Much of the focus of this 500-page book is cowboy horse gear from around the world, however, and spends quite a bit of time on rawhide braiding. It features some beautiful knots and handles, and includes whips and hatbands. It aided me very well when I started leather work 50 years ago, and continues to provide a source of inspiration. You might be able to find it used or in paperback, which would reduce the price, or even find it available for free in a public or college library.

Then you will love this book: https://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Rawhide-Leather-Braiding-Bruce/dp/0870331612/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2T0N7YOKXVUU3&keywords=bruce+grant+encyclopedia+of+rawhide+and+leather+braiding&qid=1570059673&s=gateway&sprefix=bruce+grant+%2Caps%2C215&sr=8-1

I have some that I purchased from Maverick years ago, but I don't see it on their website. Your best bet is to give them a call. My piece came from their scrap bin.

Ya think if I busted up my leg I could make something as beautiful? Very nice work!

I sure hope you don't mind, but sometimes links get "unlinked", and then no one can see what you're sharing, so here is the image for all to see...

Most people probably don't carry, but the real concern is... are those (good guys) carrying guns ready to shoot someone (bad guys) when the time comes? Shooting and/or killing someone is a pretty heavy burden to bear. Certainly a "blink of the eye" moment one won't soon forget, no matter what the circumstances (this is from someone who has had guns drawn on him more than once. Luckily, the "bad guys" chose not to pull the trigger).

You are correct about "universal size" as there isn't one. I purchased my dies from Ohio Travel Bag, and use Buckleguy snaps and rivets.

I can only speak for myself, but I found this press at Campbell Randall, and it changed my world. I use it for setting snaps and rivets, but not for punching any holes. http://www.campbell-randall.com/product/italian-twist-press-no-3

How about just doing the dishes every day? Maybe throw in some shopping? Help make the bed, and keep the house picked up? We guys learn over time that there are many things that will help keep a relationship together. Boy, have we gone off topic here...

We are talking about actual size, but when working with scanned images, things might get confusing. Images can be scanned in various resolutions, and when viewed the image can be hard to measure. Knowledge of the operating software can help manage that issue, with the end product being the exact size of the original scanned object.

Like I mentioned earlier, throw a black cloth over the object being scanned. Hold it in place through the cloth so the body of the gun is level with the scanner glass. Then scan it. If the image is a little off, scan it again. This is not rocket science, but a little trial and error is required. People do this all the time, and I think that is why people are surprised at your question, because you seem like such a very capable person, albeit "old school." Programs like Adobe Photoshop and Illustrator allow the user to convert that scanned image into a line drawing in minutes. The big headache for many will be the cost and learning curve of the software, which is steep. I hope I 'splained it good enough.

You might try layin' the gun on the scanner glass, then place a black cloth over the glass to block out light. Press scan, and you should have what you're lookin' for.

FYI: The link goes to "Instructables.com" which requires a login and password, so it is not accessible to most of us. I'd like to add that it would be nice to see what the finished bag looks like, that might help generate interest in the pattern.

Then it looks like you answered your own question. It will certainly give your product a more finished look.

I always clean the lace with saddle soap before I use it. Then let it thoroughly dry. I usually follow up with some beeswax/oil conditioner. It should help, but no guarantee, as it depends on the leather used to make the lace.

Actual image posts are better than links, which can sometimes go away, so here is that image...

What are you using for a core? I've used different materials and have had similar issues. I've resorted to dying the edges of the core, if it would take any dye, "just in case."

Leather New is what I use, and it is available from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H5SQ4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It helps when you put your location in your profile.

Not clear as to what will work best for you, but to help others understand, here is some information about PVA (from Wikipedia): "Poly(vinyl acetate) (PVA, PVAc, poly(ethenyl ethanoate): best known as wood glue, white glue, carpenter's glue, school glue, Elmer's glue in the US, or PVA glue)." There are some environmentally friendly contact cements out there, including Weldwood Non-Flammable Contact Cement available at Home Depot, which might be worth trying.

Possibly cleaning the leather with saddle soap. My preferred is liquid in a spray bottle I get from a local farm supply store. That and a soft rag should help you clean up all of the residue.

The only thought that comes to mind is to rivet the plastic plaque through the leather to a metal plate. Maybe use Chicago screws, which are rivets that don't need pressing.

I sure hope this answer helps you more that it might confuse you. There are various types of oil-tanned leathers, and while some will take a finish, some won't. You may have to try the finish you are curious about on some sample leather and see what happens. For example, I have some "yellow latigo" from different tanneries. One of them takes Fiebings antique finish very well, and another won't accept any antique finish at all. And yet another takes the antique finish, but it rubs off. There are other types of finishes, including Resoline, Atom Wax, various oil/beeswax concoctions, and the list goes on. You will need to take it on a case-by-case basis and see what happens. My ultimate solution is to choose leathers that do not need any further finishing, so that is mostly what I do these days.