LatigoAmigo

Bruce Grant says to "Use an extra long thong and work carefully." That is advice from the Sage himself.

There is no need to shout... we want to all be on our best behavior.

I use oil/beeswax on chrome tan all the time to provide a protective finish. As to the color changes, you will want to experiment on some scrap first. Some chrome tanned leathers can change color after the oil/wax application and some won't. One thing you might notice is that when applying a finish/conditioner to chrome tanned leathers, some color might rub off, but not always.

Edge lacing can take many forms, sometimes lacing through the same hole more than once. Also, the thickness (weight) of the lace and the suppleness of the leather that you are lacing into can be a factor. There are too many variables involved to have a pat answer to your questions. You will just want to experiment with what you have to see what works best. Are you familiar with Bruce Grant's books on lacing? They cover a lot of ground, and you might find them to be helpful.

This is my take on the topic. I've created a little demo showing where to start, where to finish, and when the "trick" happens. In the PDF I've attached here, when I say "over and under," I mean like Al Stohlman demonstrates in his book "The Art of Hand Sewing." Any feedback will be appreciated. Watchstrap step by step 2.pdf

Wow. That is quite the blade.

My bags tend to all be big and heavy, and I don't usually include a shoulder strap, so they typically go to the male side.

The are piece is based on this bag that I made last year... And I try to make bags that work for men.

Not sure of UK sources, but you might look at what fabric stores sell, called fusing. It is a fabric stiffener that you can simply iron onto flesh-side of the leather, no gluing necessary. It should work great with upholstery grade leather. Heat n Bond is one brand name.

I thought I'd try my hand at making a bag that could be hung up on a wall. I took some deerskin rawhide, cowhide, bison and latigo, ran it all through my laser cutter/etcher, hand-stitched the pieces together, and this is what I came up with. Just entered it into a local art show.

It provides us with this no-cost forum to discuss things that matter... leather working.Now I think about that all the time.

I use magnetic tape in my shop. I got it from Amazon for just $12.99. https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Magnetic-Tape-Adhesive-Projects/dp/B078SZLKRC/ref=pd_cp_328_2/142-9745976-1700368?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B078SZLKRC&pd_rd_r=db1ec382-205f-4058-b1ec-e3f738e17185&pd_rd_w=u2DFR&pd_rd_wg=TqX6N&pf_rd_p=592dc715-8438-4207-b7fa-4c7afdeb6112&pf_rd_r=1W6QQHDZA4WXG08RNJ4B&psc=1&refRID=1W6QQHDZA4WXG08RNJ4B

I have been watching a documentary about art auctions called "The Price of Everything". It is about the (crazy) value of some art, typically after the artist has sold it (or given it away). So in this case, if someone gives me a gift, can I sell it? ... of course I can, because I own it. Apparently I have no liability because I didn't make it. This is an interesting topic, to which there are no simple answers. It boils down to the ethical question of "can you sell something that might be the intellectual property of someone else without their permission?" No clear answer, and certainly a problem for those who feel they are getting ripped off.

Search for Pattern Making Software and/or Pattern Software on this site and you will see that this topic has been discussed many of the members. Since free isn't imperative, I use Adobe Illustrator. It has a high (subscription) price and a fairly steep learning curve, but, if you can get past that, it's a great program.

Wow, that's doin' some talkin'. Very nice.

The fibers of chrome tanned leather do not lay down and smooth out like veg tanned does, thus tokonole.

This is going to be a challenge, as the edges of these two leathers finish very differently, and will probably not meld together very well. That being said, my first choice for finishing the edge of chrome tanned leather is a product called "Seiwa Tokonole Leather Finish Burnishing Gum." Easy to apply, water based, comes in black. It works well with veg tanned leathers too.

They will typically remove some color and leave the leather darker, but it depends on the leather in question. Not all hides respond the same way, even when they are the same type of hide from the same supplier. It really has to do with the specific hide in question. It is better to wipe off the excess color than have the excess color rub off on your customer.

I always do it, because the surface of the leather could have been affected by handling prior to purchasing. Plus, it will remove any excess coloring agent from the finish, allowing Aussie to better penetrate. I prefer either Farnam's New Saddle Soap Foam and Farnam's New Glycerine Saddle Soap (Spray). I find that they are easier to apply and gentler to the surface of the leather.

I use several different types of chrome tanned leathers, and I typically don't use anything, just let the leather age naturally. But when it does need protection, I'll use something like Fiebing's Aussie Leather Conditioner with beeswax. It will help keep the leather from picking up nicks and scrapes.

That is a very interesting site, thanks for sharing. I'm sorry to say, but I'm getting old and have found that very few things are actually "free." When you click through to this book, you don't just get to download it from the site, but have to provide your contact information first. Not quite "free."

Since you have a few projects in mind, you might want to get the best book I know of on the subject, "The Art of Hand Sewing", by Al Stohlman. It is available through Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Art-Hand-Sewing-Leather/dp/1892214911/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=leather+stitching+book&qid=1580585416&sr=8-1

This has not been my experience when cutting leather. My laser cutter has an air assist pump that forces fresh air through the nozzle when in operation, and a ventilation system that removes the smoke from the cutting area. The lens is located 2+ inches away, up inside of the laser head, much removed from the surface of the material being cut. None of the smoke I make from cutting leather reaches the lens, and I have never encountered the issue of etched lenses. I'm only speaking about leather (chrome-tanned and otherwise), as I can't speak to PVC or poly-carbonates related issues.

Sure...

I've read that also, but with proper ventilation, have had no adverse effects, although I only do it a few hours per month at the most.