LatigoAmigo

After that great description, I just had to see what it looks like...

I once found myself inside of a factory that made leather gloves. None of those machines looked "regular." I think you would want to do some research to see what would work best based on the type and weight of leather that you plan to use before you spend any money.

You might do some research in handbags. There are many books available that you might take a look at. Amazon has books on making handbags as do many fabric stores. Your local library or community college could also be good resources. The best advice I might offer is to make a prototype out of something in cardboard or fabric before you sacrifice some leather for the project.

I've had that happen a few times. A bit of a mystery, but not fatal, so I haven't given it much thought.

... and he looks great in them. Nice fit.

This is often caused by the images being too large. If you email the photos to yourself you might have the opportunity to shrink them. Now I see that there may be a problem with the file type. You might be able to convert the file using Photoshop.

Why don't you call Campbell-Randall and ask? Friendly folks.

That's why most of us are hobbyists not businesses. Stiff competition out there.

You might consider using a brayer, a hard rubber roller that print makers use to spread ink. I use one to smooth out leather that I have applied adhesive to... works great. You can find a wide selection of them on Amazon.

At Amazon, the Edge Coat is about $10 for a 4 oz. bottle, while a comparable jar of Tokonole (4+ oz,) is about $14. Not too much more money, so I'd say it is well worth a $4 investment to get the many good looking edges that jar will provide.

Lucky you. Where did you get it? What brand?

When I want to just color the edge and not worry about the finish, I use these Montana Markers, which I fill with Fiebings Pro dye. Very easy applicator, but the problem is that the dye has the tendency to bleed from the edge onto the surface, and doesn't look as finished as the Tokonole.

It was a brand new C.S. Osborne 86. It could be that I got the adjustments wrong, not sure, but I've seen other posts on this site regarding splitting chrome-tanned leather, and it appears others have the same problem. It cut through veg-tanned very easily.

I have purchased a red, high density clicker pad from Campbell-Randall. May not compete with the sale at Tandy, but very durable. http://www.campbell-randall.com/product/clicker-pads-18-x-36-x-2-in

I use a product called Tokonole, and have found it to very effectively cover the edges of chrome-tanned leather. It comes in black, brown and clear. You can find it on Amazon. It can be applied with a small brush, but I usually use a q-tip applicator. Easy to apply and cleans up with water.

I have split veg-tanned and it worked nicely, but had no luck splitting any of the chrome-tanned that I've tried. Probably operator error, but the blade simply would not cut into the material. I tried several adjustments, but could not get the blade to cut into the material. I have many different types of chrome-tanned leather, and did not try it on all of them, but only where I had a certain need, and that leather was heavily oiled with lots of pull-up, a very dense material.

Do you must mean the weight (thickness) of the leather? Probably 4-5 oz. will do. If you are asking dimensions, or the amount of leather to purchase, hard to answer with what was provided. Links are easy to post, but sometimes "disconnect" for a variety of reasons. If you are serious about getting a response, you will be better served if you post the actual image.

Since you location is not shown on your profile, I don't know where you are, so it is that much harder to suggest a source of cheap leather. Most leather is not cheap, and assuming that there is no leather supplier near you (some have great bargain bins), you might practice by making smaller items. Cutting, stitching, dying, burnishing, etc. can be practiced without spending too much time on each piece. I would scrap the idea of purchasing the foam sheets, as they have nothing to do with leather. At the worst, practice with canvas that you can purchase at a fabric store. In fact, many products are made using canvas and leather, and they can look pretty good together. That my 2¢.

... as long as you're not splitting chrome-tanned leather ... then it is quite a different story, one I learned the hard ($$$) way.

I can help with that. Did I pick the correct image from the link you provided?

It is inspiring to see someone so young brimming with such talent. Kudos to you...

Bruce Grant says to "Use an extra long thong and work carefully." That is advice from the Sage himself.

There is no need to shout... we want to all be on our best behavior.

I use oil/beeswax on chrome tan all the time to provide a protective finish. As to the color changes, you will want to experiment on some scrap first. Some chrome tanned leathers can change color after the oil/wax application and some won't. One thing you might notice is that when applying a finish/conditioner to chrome tanned leathers, some color might rub off, but not always.

Edge lacing can take many forms, sometimes lacing through the same hole more than once. Also, the thickness (weight) of the lace and the suppleness of the leather that you are lacing into can be a factor. There are too many variables involved to have a pat answer to your questions. You will just want to experiment with what you have to see what works best. Are you familiar with Bruce Grant's books on lacing? They cover a lot of ground, and you might find them to be helpful.