LatigoAmigo

I use a 100 watt CO2 laser to engrave and cut chrome tanned leather. To limit exposure to the toxicity I've read about, I've installed an inline HEPA filtration system that vents to the outdoors, plus work in a well ventilated space. So far, so good. For what it's worth, a print shop near here has a Purex fume extraction system that vents indoors, and that seems like the ultimate, although expensive solution.

What are you engraving with? Are you referring to laser engraving?

You might consider TAP Plastics. They have stores throughout California, plus they have a great website. I've found them very helpful. https://www.tapplastics.com/

I think that this qualifies as a trick question... There are too many variables to use a "formula." The thickness of the lace, the spacing of the holes, the distance from the edge, the type of braid (round braid, edge braid, etc,), and the thickness of the leathers that you are lacing together will all play into the length of the lace you will need. Since you have a better idea regarding most of these issues, your best bet is to cut a given length of lace and see how much distance it will cover. I've attached two pages from one of Bruce Grant's books regarding length of lace, where he suggests that one uses shorter lengths of lace and splicing them together. It is advice I've used for years. Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather Braiding pp290-291.pdf

I know this is a reach... but you might consider perforating it with a laser cutter, that is, if one is available.

Maverick Leather sells white kangaroo lace in three widths. Not cheap, but awful pretty. https://maverickleathercompany.com/product/white-roo-lace-6mm/

I'm currently working on a project that incorporates rawhide. You can't do much of anything with it until you wet it, otherwise it cracks and breaks. Then when it dries, it goes back to being stiff. Not the friendliest material for lacing.

Correct me if I'm wrong, that this will be the case, unless that the seller gives authorization to do whatever the buyer wishes to do with the pattern.

I am using quite a bit of chrome tanned bison these days. It has the lack of color in the middle (not blue/gray but light tan) which indicates that the color has not fully penetrated the hide, and I've had no problems with the leather breaking or cracking. I use chrome tanned leather almost exclusively, and find that most of what I have is not dyed all the way through.

The type of leather will make little or no difference, it has more to do with the thickness. What I do is add 1/8 - 1/4 inch (depending on the look I want) to the outside (or subtract from the inside) layer. With the inside being smaller there will be a slight pucker when you open the wallet, so once you've done this you will get a better feel for how much of an adjustment to make.

The next question is what dies does this press use, and how do the prices of those compare to the Tandy/Buckle Guy dies? Typically you will want to have different sizes of rivet setters, snap setters and grommet setters, so you will want to factor those purchases into the total cost of the press.

You might search for decorative scissors on Amazon.com. They offer quite an assortment of patterns.

This is good information... hope it's OK to post some info from that link, just in case it gets "disconnected." “A set of 16 punches for closing round bezels around stones or evening prongs. The tempered punches have concave faces that are ideal for stone setting. You simply insert the stone into the setting. Use the appropriate size punch to press the stone into the prongs or to press the bezel around the stone. The set includes punches from 2mm to 9mm, a wood storage box, and a hard wood handle.”

Wow. Pretty nice. What an amazing technique. I've attached a photo from that link here for all to see (links sometimes get disconnected).

The Hide House carries some water buffalo. https://hidehouse.com/products/

You might try what I've done... pick up a pair at the Salvation Army/Goodwill/thrift store and take them apart.

Can you post a photo so we can have a better understanding of the problem? Otherwise it is hard to imagine the root of the problem, i.e., rivet too long, etc.

Your request seems a little vague, so It might help if you shared your design along with the examples mentioned. Pictures can truly be worth 1,000 words.

If what you mean is "firm", then you might try the Hide House in Napa. They carry what they call California Latigo, and it is very firm, pretty much water proof, and oil tanned. Comes in a variety of colors (although mostly deep, rich colors) and weights. https://hidehouse.com/

There is a product called Tokonole, which you paint on then burnish, which comes in clear. From this picture it looks like it might work for you. One source is Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/products/seiwa-tokonole-gum-trag-replacement-burnishing-agent?variant=1194080319

To get a response members of this site need to see the pictures. The usual reason for uploading difficulties is that they are too large. You might try sending them to yourself, as that sometimes allows you to send reduced sized images, then post those smaller images.

Links sometimes become lost to time because they lose their connection, so I've posted the photos from link for all to see. I sure hope that is OK with you, plus it might help get a response.

You are likely to find what you're looking for if you use the search feature of this site for the words "glue" or "adhesive"', as this topic has been addressed in the past.

You might get more responses if you were more specific in your request... Is the flag to be folded in such a way that it results in a triangular shape? Because there are different sized flags, what will the dimensions of the folded flag be? Do you want to display the stars, i.e., have a window to show the flag through? Maybe you could draw something out that would assist people who might be willing and able to help you. Then you might want to make sure that you don't choose a leather type that could degrade the flag itself over time, which is to say that you will probably be safest with a veg-tanned leather. Just my thoughts.

I think it is very important that we are kind towards and understanding of each other. If we're not, this site and our leather-working community will suffer. Some of these threads are free-flowing and overlap quite a bit, but that just has to be OK as we learn and share our knowledge and experiences.