LatigoAmigo

A search on Amazon turned this up... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O09PSM2/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00O09PSM2&pd_rd_w=N2kRx&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=DeY0P&pf_rd_r=Q3WSZ6WW9SN9MVGSJFZ0&pd_rd_r=80a716d9-a80e-4ab0-a204-f7fc85b28353 In this case the supplier is Dangerous Threads. Click on their name and you will be taken to a page that lists their Amazon offerings. Plus Amazon will provide you similar products, for which you can find those suppliers. From there you can use the internet to contact those various suppliers to see if they can provide you with what you are seeking. Because there are many types of boot laces available, including variations in color, leather type and weight, you should have quite a contact list. Good luck.

Let your leather breathe. Give it a thorough inspection, and remove any mold with a soft cloth, like a cotton diaper or micro-fiber cloth. You might need to clean the leather, but how you do that and what you use will depend on the type of leather you have. Replace that plastic either with new plastic, or preferably some manilla paper. It is a brown, heavy paper that many leather suppliers use to wrap hides for shipping. It will allow the leather to breathe while protecting it from abrasions.

I may be saying this because I will never be a full-time leather crafter, nor will I ever apprentice under someone to expand my skill set. I just like "doing" leather work and having fun. But if someone is simply willing to buy your hand-crafted leather product, you might very well be able to consider yourself a "crafts-person."

Wow... Born in the UK, Kate Ballard, a Suffolk native, has wanted to make saddles since 11 years old. At the age of 15 she left school and started her career under the tutelage of Tony Russell and Ken Langford. Kate showed such aptitude for the trade and craft she was quickly offered a place at the prestigious Cordwainers College in London. There for 3 years she studied saddle making, bridle making, harness making, biomechanics of horse and rider, the muscular system and skeletal frame of the horse and finally lorinery, the study of bits. During her time at Cordwainers College Kate entered a competition for The Prince of Wales Award for Rural Crafts, not only did she win her class with her hand made saddle she also won overall champion. Kate graduated Cordwainers College after completing all C&G exams for Rural Saddlery. With the highest honours Kate received the gold medal for best student. Kate was then offered a four year formal apprenticeship with Geoff Dean, Master Saddler and Harness maker in West Sussex, England. Throughout her apprenticeship Kate continued to excel in her trade, winning the Society of Master Saddlers competition in London. Making Saddlery for Tina Gifford (now....) Britain’s 3 Day Eventing Olympic medalist. She was requested to make a bridle for the Kings Troop to be presented by Princess Anne at the Royal Tournament, Earls Court, London. After 7 years of training and working Kate’s love for her home in Suffolk beckoned and she was offered her an opportunity as a Journeyman in a local Saddlery for 2 years. After 9 years of education, exams, training, assessments, dedication, persistence and sheer hard work Kate earned her status as a Master Saddler and Professional Saddle Fitter, the dream she’d had from the age of 11 had come true. Kate’s reputation, high standards and professional ethics have made her a sought after commodity. In Dec 2002 Kate moved to the U.S. Bringing her wealth of knowledge and skill to a Country where sadly no education for this unique trade is provided she has endeavored to teach and educate those in the equestrian industry. Since being in the US Kate has lectured on the SMS overseas Saddle Fitting Courses, taught apprentices and most recently consulted for the U.S Paralympic Dressage team who won medals for the first time ever in an International Competition at The WEG in 2018.

That is very interesting. When I Googled Cauterie it looked amazingly like the Thread Zapper II that I got from Amazon... for around $10.

This is just a guess, but it seems you would be more likely to find potential students if anyone knew what part of the country you're located in.

It depends on how often I use the thread burner. In my case I might go for weeks without using it, but I haven't changed the battery since last summer.

I had a similar experience, then went to longer lasting lithium batteries, and found that the burning elements are replaceable, so my interest was renewed at that point, and I haven't looked back.

I burn the ends with a battery powered thread burning tool that I got at Amazon. Very happy with it.

Think about latex paint on your house. It is water based, but does it bleed in the rain? ... Nope. I think that once Tokonole sets up there should be no bleeding problems. I have a jar and have used it to edge some chrome-tan leather. Works great, and although I can't confirm its durability. When applied, it reminded me of Fenice edge paint only thicker. If you add color to the clear Tokonole you will change its chemical makeup, and that could have a negative affect its durability. My 2¢.

Consider using a tapestry needle... blunt tip, big eye for big thread.

Be sure to vent the fumes to the outside. Might not seem like much, but depending on what you are cutting/engraving, it can be very important for your health/life. Certain materials, when laser cut, put out toxic or semi-toxic fumes. I'm only going on what others have said, as I'm no expert and am not sure of the severity of each, but PVC is one, some vinyls (like contact paper), and chrome tanned leather have been recognized as problematic.

I would recommend giving Maine Thread Company a try. I use them exclusively, and have been very pleased with the quality of their thread. https://www.mainethread.com/index.php/waxed-polycord Their waxed poly thread comes in 31 colors in 6 sizes, 70 yards per spool, and is available in assorted sizes, as described below: .020" ultra light weight polyester cord, 1 ply waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" tube. .030" light weight polyester cord, 2 ply twisted and waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" Tube. .035" light-medium weight polyester cord, 3 ply twisted and waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" Tube. .040" medium weight polyester cord, 4 ply twisted and waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" Tube. .045" medium-heavy weight polyester cord, 5 ply twisted and waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" Tube. .050" heavy weight polyester cord, 6 ply twisted and waxed. 210 feet on 2.5" Tube.

According to the Tandy website, "This rich-looking leather from Spain has been veg-tanned in a historic tannery with a naked finish that has a luxurious two-tone pull-up effect. Use to make lightweight belts, cases and handbags." https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/portifino-double-shoulder-tan

I have used iron on fabric interfacing, but due to the oils in chrome tan, the interfacing does not always adhere. I have glued fabric interfacing with Barge cement, and that has helped, but since it is not sewn in, it might pull away from the leather over time. On my latest project I'm lining a bag with Salamander Bonded Leather because it needs a lot of support. The description reads in part "... By finely milling vegetable leather scraps as well as chrome shavings which we obtain from all around the world, and adding natural fat and latex as a binder, ... SALAMANDER bonded leather fibre material is made of over 90 % natural and re-growing raw materials ... we obtain bonded leather fibre material - a continuous product, which is available in a number of qualities and thicknesses." https://www.etsy.com/listing/677134510/salamander-bonded-leather-04-50cm-x?ref=related-5&frs=1 There are other similar products available, but I like that this one is available in various weights. I have found that because this is real leather, it bonds well to other leather, so I'm hoping that is does not have the same tendency to pull away as the fabric interfacing does. Time will tell.

Are you sure that it is not Fiebing's Tan-Kote?

That is a great solution to a tricky problem. When I started reading your post, I imagined that you would have solved it using curved needles. I'm not sure what the sofa needle you use looks like, but I use tapestry needles for my stitching, and your problem helped me find something that I honestly did not know existed, curved tapestry needles. Thank you for sharing your problem and finding a creative solution.

I went to the website, thanks for the tip. But when I tried to see what was available "in the store," I saw that some of the item's images would not display. So I looked around the site and found that the best place to catch up with Knotty Linda is on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/KnottyLindaLeathercrafter/.

I know that what I used to purchase from Tandy did, but I don't know if "all" kangaroo lace comes beveled. You will want to order some and see for yourself. If found some "Roo" lace at Maverick Leather here: https://www.maverickleathercompany.com/product-category/kangaroo/roo-lace-spools/ I do, but prefer beveled lace. I don't know what youtube videos you are referring to, but I have never cut lace from round or square pieces cutting from the outside towards the middle. I've seen it done, but did not like the quality of the lace. It was too uneven for me, but it worked just fine for the leather worker I saw using it. No matter what decision you make, you will have to open up your wallet, either for pre-cut lace, or for tools to cut lace. But don't worry, it won't hurt forever...

I'm a big fan of the Bruce Grant books, in fact that is what got me into leather work. Braiding is a wonderful pursuit, and these days I cut much of my own. In the past, however, Tandy kangaroo lace was my "go to" for most projects. These days it is not cheap, but it is "firm" and beveled, so the lace does not stretch and it lays down very nicely. At this point in the game it might be important for you to get good results, otherwise you might not be encouraged to continue braiding. As to cutting your own lace out of scraps, I've seen it done, but I ended up getting a table top lace cutter. No beveled edges, and it requires rather long pieces of leather to provide you with the same length lace, but it has served my purpose.

The batches of this that I've made, which I keep in jars, have lasted years without turning rancid.

Then I misunderstood you, sorry about that. The document I posted was something I found years ago. It may have come from this site: https://whips.wordpress.com/2010/02/15/easy-braiding-soap-recipe/

That is not a link, but rather an embedded PDF. It should either open or download when you "click" on it.

You might try applying the neatsfoot oil and dressing to the leather before you engrave with the laser. I often use this braiding soap recipe to coat the leather, and find that it helps keep the residue from penetrating the leather. Easy Braiding Soap Recipe.pdf

As they say up in Maine, "Hard sayin' not noin." I kinda doubt if it's really leather, as it looks like a manufactured material. Maybe you could order some and see. Or provide the link and we can all take a closer look, as it is hard to tell by just looking at the photo.