LatigoAmigo

What is "double-sided leather tape" that you refer to? I am a visual person, so I'm not sure if that helps me understand what brand you are using or how the tape gets applied. Does it go on the zipper, then you press the zipper onto the leather? How do you know when it has been properly aligned? I'm sure it is not complicated, but just wanted to see the entire process.

Nice effort on the video, but you skipped a most important part... how did you hold the zipper in place while you stitched it in? Did you glue it in? Did you use some special bonding agent? In the video you mentioned taping the zipper in, when when you came back that the taping and stitching was done. So, what does the tape look like and how does it work? Tape that I've used did not hold the zipper in place very well, so I wanted to see how you did that.

I'm feelin' ya. I love math and math problems, but over the years the ways these kinds of questions are answered has slipped away, so these days I let software do the work. Adobe Illustrator allows one to create a "pattern brush," so I made a circle with a diameter measuring 8 mm (0.8 is very tiny... can do that too), and made a circle with 24 of them. Let me know and I'll make you a template for any size and number that you'd like. It is very easy to do. Twenty-four 8mm Circles.pdf

You are kickin' some b*tt. Very nice.

I made the pattern myself. Somewhere online I found the dimensions of various sized Birkin Bags, so that gave me the overall size I was looking for, then I went to work using Adobe Illustrator to replicate the various images I found as a basis for the design. Of course I wanted to give it my own flavor, so I rounded the corners to soften the look.

The determinant is not just the weight of the leather, as the way the leather is processed also makes a difference. For example, I have some "stuffed" leather that took many passes to cut through, most likely due to its density. Even though I'm using a 100-watt laser, I'm finding that it can take 6 or more passes to get the cut and finish that I want in that weight leather. The software can make some difference, but generally that is governed by the manufacturer. You will find that the process requires trial and error, as there are many variables to consider.

What you see are "raw" edges, which burn black. After cutting, there tends to be some smoke and heat residue on the surface, including the edges, so after wiping everything down with a damp microfiber cloth, I clean it up with saddle soap. I prefer Farnam Leather New Glycerine Saddle Soap which is a spray. Works wonderfully. Then I finish with a leather dressing like Obenauf's, paying attention to the edges, which helps get rid of the burnt leather smell. Hope that answers your question.

My niece teaches print-making at the local junior college, and she refers to the laser-cutting process as "edition-able" because once you have the pattern you want, you can produce it over and over. I'm kinda caught up in the world of one-offs, but maybe someday I will design something I'd like to repeat.

That is good to hear. I also have a CO2 laser (a "homemade" 100 w), and have enjoyed the experience. Here is my latest project.

A steel rule (4, 5 & 6 foot), extending beyond the edges of the leather, will allow one to lay a cut along the grid line beneath it.

I was acquainted with a saddle maker many years ago, and she must have had the same question at one time. You can find her contact information on her website: http://skyhorse.com/lisa-and-loren/.

I had to try it… so here is my first purse, a laser-cut version of the Hermés Birkin Bag. It’s really more of a prototype, as I’m still learning how the laser cutter works on different leathers, and, more importantly, how to execute good design. The leather used for the outside and inner pockets is top-grain “Red Dakota” cowhide (5-5.5 oz.), and the lining is “Designer Delight Dark Red” (2.75-3.25 oz), both from the Hide House in Napa, and the thread is Waxed Polycord from Maine Thread Company. The cutting, the lacing holes, and the engraving were done on a 100-watt, CO2 laser cutter, with the pattern created in Adobe Illustrator. Hardware is from various sources, and all stitching was done by hand.

I had to try it… so here is my first purse, a laser-cut version of the Hermés Birkin Bag. It’s really more of a prototype, as I’m still learning how the laser cutter works on different leathers, and, more importantly, how to execute good design. The leather used for the outside and inner pockets is top-grain “Red Dakota” cowhide (5-5.5 oz.), and the lining is “Designer Delight Dark Red” (2.75-3.25 oz), both from the Hide House in Napa, and the thread is Waxed Polycord from Maine Thread Company. The cutting, the lacing holes, and the engraving were done on a 100-watt, CO2 laser cutter, with the pattern created in Adobe Illustrator. Hardware is from various sources, and all stitching was done by hand.

Here they are. Stronger and (somewhat) stiffer as the result of the added reinforcement. ..

The grid is built into my self-healing cutting mat (33" x 58"), and I built my workbench to match. Would not be without it.

Given that there are many different types of leather and reasons for gluing them together, there are also many ways to approach it. Thanks for the tip for gluing small pieces of veg-tan leather.

I have been very happy with the "Italian Twist Press No. 2," a bench press that I picked up from Campbell-Randall for $105. You can find it here: https://campbell-randall.com/product/italian-twist-press-no-2.

I have never had a problem with this recipe, it has served me well. Instead of beef tallow, it calls for lard. Easy Braiding Soap Recipe.pdf

I am amazed at your work. These look great. Since linked images tend to "unlink" over time, I've created a photo collage with your images so they can stay embedded here for all to see. They really are inspiring.

I am finishing my first shoulder bag and faced the same issue. What I did was go onto Amazon and purchase a 10 yard roll of Country Brook Design 3/8 Inch Black Heavy Nylon Webbing to place between the straps along with a leather insert. It provides strength and increases stiffness.

CLBK45 is what I have, and it is black all the way through, but I can't attest to their heavier weight latigo. Best of luck finding what you need.

I recently purchased some black latigo from the Hide House (in Napa, CA) that might fit your description, as it is black on the inside. You can find it and more on pages 29 and 30 of their catalog, or you can find it on their website at https://hidehouse.com/products/. Just type "latigo" into the search window. Hide House Catalog 2018.pdf

It's good to see that you have not just been sitting around. What a grand assortment of work. Very nice!

Here is the link to the Campbell-Randall site that lists their BF110 Hot Iron Station for Burnishing, Crease Lines, & Thread Trimming for $225: https://campbell-randall.com/shop/edge-finishing. You might call them during business hours to get more information, 1-800-327-9420. Friendly service. When I bought one from them it was available without the transformer, and at that time they also offered an assortment of tips. Based on the information shown in this listing, those options may have changed.

Maybe you could post a photo of your saddle so we can see what it looks like.