CowboyBob

I know a lot of Pfaff's have gearbox covers that are missing & people just put regular oil on them & probably not as often as they should & they've been using them that way for years.

The H4 has a higher foot lift & with the 135-35 needle in it the needle would hit the foot with the feet up that's why it needs the longer needle.Your machine shouldn't lift that high UNLESS someone put the higher lifter handle on it & that's why it's marked to use the 190 only.The problem w/the 190 is it's longer so it will flex & break easier than the 134-35.

The reason behind threading that way is once in a while the thread can work it's way out of the tension while sewing,BUT then when threading like this it isn't lined up with the next tension.SO what we have people do is run the thread through 2 of the holes in the spool pin for alittle tension before the thread gets to this one & it seems to work too.

LOL,it's a good one!

Now,this is work writing to 2 Jeffs,Glad you got her fixed & alpha Jeff ,I'm just relaxing watching a movie,my Wife is giving me the evil eye while I'm typing better run.

Hey Jeff,Switch the chain around end for end,it's catching on the big end & you want to tapered end pointing down.

Thanks for the report!Glad to see your having fun,it was great seeing you again!.Those drop down guide are pretty handy,we expect to have more in soon.

It won't sew very heavy,uses #69 or 92 thread & does not have a walking foot.Better for material then leather.

Here's a manual for this machine.The threading isn't too clear in it. http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/InstructionManuals/277ROpMan.pdf 277ROpMan.pdf

Theaded incorrectly,you forgot the run the thread through the takeup lever(the part that moves up & down while your sewing & behind the guard in the front)You need to always stop & start sewing with it all the way up.

Very interesting,So they just wanted to be different?

My eyes were looking @ the machine & missed the heater LOL!

The story I've been told is they couldn't get enamel paint during WW2.

Looks good.Have you ever had a problem where it didn't wrinkle ?I've painted a lot of them & found it wrinkles better if you warm the machine up.I used to put a heat lamp on the base & cover the head with ali foil to hold the heat in for 3-4 hrs,OR if it a hot summer day will work too.

It's a high-speed garmet sewing machine for sewing shirts & dresses.NOT for leather at all.

29-4 oper.man..pdf

If the stitch is that long your lucky,because the max length on the newer models is only 7 pr in.The part that gets worn is called a bell crank lever,I call the part a tongue it's part #8167 & fits in the ring part.All the 29-4 parts are the same except the hand lift lever AFAIK.There's a hole in the ring of part#82053 that needs oiled once in a while to prevent this from getting wornout. Here's a 29-4 parts listhttp://parts.singerco.com/IPpartCharts/29-4.pdf Here's the operators manual f/a 29-4 29-4 Parts List from Singer.pdf

On my 34K11 it has the upper arm of a 45K & has all the upper parts of it.It has foot # 82513 like a 45K25 has ,I've seen some of the 34's will a smaller 16,17 class upper arm on them too.

Chris, You need a welt foot for that,I do have some in stock for the CB3200BUT a 1206 with a welt foot would do a better job in something that thin.You probably want to use a #69 thread for a finer looking stitch?

It should work great,just don't plan on moving anytime soon.LOL

Well it's a double needle so it has a wide foot on it because of the needle.I suppose there's times when a double needle would be handy on making straps(as long as it has a wider guage 3/8"to 1/2" in it) but when you take a needle out to use a single needle the wide foot will be in the way.

Hey Colt,Looks Great.I'd quit selling machines if I could make leather look that purty!

Great Deal !! Yes.it will fit,we've even put the stands in smaller vehicles like a Honda CRV.

Maybe the hook guard(metal under hook) is hitting the needle causing you to move the needle a little too far left.