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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. CowboyBob
    You might have some thread or lint under the bobbin tension spring or the spring might have gotten bent.You could try to take the bobbincase out,take the spring off & bend it in alittle & it might not hurt to get a couple of new spare ones just for times like this.Do you have a backlash spring in the bobbincase?
  2. CowboyBob
    No,it has brushes,we used to sell them BUT they make alittle more noise when running,didn't have a smooth acceleration when pushing on the pedal,a pain to program & the main reason approx. 2 out of 10 would quit working do to the circuit board burning out.The motor we sell has brushes,is very quiet,has a knob for speed control & accelerates very smoothly as you push on the pedal.I haven't sold the brushless type in 3 yrs & they might have improved the circuit board & the speed control but these have been so truble-free for us that I don't want to change.
  3. CowboyBob
    A smaller needle can cause the thread to hang up in the eye,when sewing webbing you can use a size or 2 larger than recommended for your thread size because the hole closes up after sewing @ you'll end up breaking less needles too.I have customers using #138 & #24 needle in webbing.You might have either too much check spring travel or it could be set too tight .But tyr a larger needle first.Then move on to loosening the pressure on the check spring & or shorten the travel,BUT just one thing @ a time.
  4. CowboyBob
    Yes,it would be easier to take the head off,I can't tell you what to do,I have done them before but it's something you can look at & see what connects from the top to the bottom.one thing when you take it off is the tension mechanism will be hanging underneath by 3-4 in & you need to set it down & lay it on the backside so you don't damage it.There's 4 head bolts ,a screw through the foot lift arm to takeoff(or maybe a cable) IDK if it's that heavy,I once delivered a Landis Model E myself,wheeled it out of my trailer on a ramp & into the shoe repair shop on the 2-wheel cart.
  5. CowboyBob
    Yes,the 153's have a stitch length dial on the side because there isn't room underneath the small arm for the 111w type. For adjusting the bobbincase opener,which might not need adjusting look @ # 24 in this manual.http://www.consew.com/Files/112347/PartsBooks/227R-2.pdf You need to have the plate on when adjusting it & it always needs alittle gap even when it's pulled all the way counterclockwise,I've seen people adjust way too tight & it'll bind the thread. We have a nice easy to operate 3/4HP servo motor w/a dial speed control that will work real nice on this machine. The cloth is probably there to hold oil in the bearing,it isn't needed & can be taken out,i've never seen anything like that & have worked on 100's of these over the yrs. The hole to the right of the screw is for oil.
  6. CowboyBob
    We have them in Organ in sizes #21,22,23 & 24.$4.00 a pk of (10)+ shpg
  7. CowboyBob
    Ok,Patricia the 3300 is good on lightweight & thin canvas,it inot good on leather as the feed dogs & feet will mark of course the teeth can be ground off on the feet,but you still have the feed dogs marking the bottom.The Pfaff is a good machine except parts,feets & etc will cost more than 111w,the way the bobbincase is it'll run larger thread easier than the 111w will .
  8. CowboyBob
    Yes,it's an early one before they made the beam improvement on the top & is the back open on it? Google "Singer UFA" for more info.
  9. CowboyBob
    Don't worry,the casting can take it,I've straightened out a lot of them over the years.Just turn it slowly,find the exact high spot & give it alittle push,just alittle @ a time.
  10. CowboyBob
    Here's a few things to check #1 check the needlebar thread guide,take a short piece of thread put it through the needlebar thread guide & pull it back & forth & see if it gets cut or shreds,also how does the hole in the feed dog look?Alot of times it can get chewed up from needles hitting it.Last check the bottom of the inside foot for a groove ,this can cut thread too.Last thing when you loosen the needle when you change it does it have much play left to right when you tighten it?There more but start with this.
  11. CowboyBob
    Get a long piece of pipe & try to straighten the shaft.Alittle wobble won't hurt(LOL)BUT if you have to replace the shaft get one from another machine will be a lot easier.The big cam on the rightside is set @ the factory for that shaft & machine.They adjust the timing & hold it & test sew on on it until it's right & then,it drilled & pinned.No 2-shafts will have this hole in the same spot.So if you can find a shaft w/a cam that belongs on it will be best.If you have to drill another hole in the shaft to get the correct timing you'll weaken it.
  12. CowboyBob
    A small screwdriver would work to push on the latch.Yes,Singer did have a special tool that the machine came with BUT you do not need it .
  13. CowboyBob
    It seems like the shuttle would have to almost float free for the thread to pass. Billy,Yes that's what happens on all lockstitch ,the loop of thread goes on both sides of the shuttle on the 29's & around the bobbincase holder & bobbincase on other machines like on your Consew 206 Look at this; https://boingboing.net/2016/02/10/how-a-sewing-machine-works-gi.html
  14. CowboyBob
    Looks great, can't wait to see it finished.
  15. CowboyBob
    Nice,a person could get real artistic with aluminum & leather.
  16. CowboyBob
    Do you know if you push on the reverse handle when you make your stitches shorter it relieves the pressure off of the knob .
  17. CowboyBob
    It is a spring loaded jump foot.Singer did make some 7 class with a driven foot but with the way the mechanism works it limits the foot lift..
  18. CowboyBob
    You should try googling ,Jeep off-road forums ,there's a lot of them where you can find what you need to know. Hope you keep the greasey side down!!
  19. CowboyBob
    Thank you men for the kind words ! It's good to know there's some people out there that appreciate what we do to these machines to prep them & warrantee them too.He doesn't mention that either.I'm not worried about him at all I just didn't like him saying his machine is the same package & lower price than ours when it's clearly NOT!!
  20. CowboyBob
    The main bearings & upper feed parts are the only parts that are automatically oiled.
  21. CowboyBob
    It look s to me like something someone made from an arbor press.They just happen to use the control box from Robotemp,so if that ever goes out at least you know where to get it.You just need to try it @ dsifferent heat settings & see how it works.It's still a good buy though if you need one.
  22. CowboyBob
    Have you taken the end cover (over the needlebar) & lubed every pivot point you can see there's at least 14 or more spots that need some lube once a month.Even oil @ the top & bottom of the needlebar & the pressure bar where it runs through the casting & the nut on top.
  23. CowboyBob
    I'm sure most people can read between the lines here & know this is some great sales pitch.We sell the machine with more attachments than this & extra needles,2-spools of thread & a Deluxe Adjustable Pedastal stand (not the cheaper stand he's trying to pedal)for $2,795.00 not $3,100.00 like he wants you to believe. I'm only writing this since he compares what he's selling to the Cowboys we sell & want people to get the story straight!
  24. CowboyBob
    Yes,this would be a good machine for leather up to 5/16" thicK & is very similar to the Consew 206RB-5.
  25. CowboyBob
    Remember jamming underneath is always do to incorrect threading or too loose upper tension.You might have knocked the clutch out alittle,this model has lines on the inside that need to be lined up which the outside, they are marked A &B.So push the button down & turn the machine until the lines line up.Also when you started sewing did you pull the bobbin thread above the needle plate & you also need to hold onto the needle thread the first 3 stitches.
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