CowboyBob

I'm sure some dealer has some,we do not @ this time.

I would say look @ Juki 2210

If it runs too fast for you we have a servo that you can replace the clutchmotor with that will slow it down alot & make it much more controllable.Yes alot of people end up with two or more machines.

Nice looking machine.

We do carry many parts, needles & feet in stock for this model.

Good work, I like the first vid the best as the machine gets used & the parts get play in them it'll prevent alot of feeding problems if it's adj.that way.

Try Singer 16-188

Your feedog timing is perfect. Your top foot is just coming down too soon.if you do a search on this website you'll find a lot of discussion about it.Get the outside foot on first, the back where the walking foot height is adjusted on the wingnut follow that rod inside the head, that is what controls when the inside foot comes down.So there's 2 screws one should be in a groove so loosen this one enough that it'll clear the shaft if need to turn it more, then loosen the other just a little so it's slightly rubbing the shaft(then it won't spin way outta whack) Then spin the cam on the shaft tighten one screw tight enough the hold, spin the machine around & see how it looks.You want the needle to just be starting in the material just slightly before the inside foot comes.A little of this can be fine tuned on the back clamp where the wingnut adj ij is by slightly raise or lower the foot there too.If you do loosen the 10mm bolt left it tight enough that you can just move it by tapping on the foot a little up or down as needed.

The -7 gears are larger than the -1 aren't they?Racks are the same.

Oops,I have a new keyboardless computer @ home here & accidentally bumped it . No, I know for sure they won't interchange on the -70 ,on the -1 I really don't know for sure, knowing Adler ?

There are some pockets in the machine that can hold oil, there are no oil reserves in it.The only Singers parts that interchange are shuttles, feet, maybe tension discs. One thing you can check (tilted back so the gears don't fall out when you open it) Check for play in the gears & lube them while your underneath, there's also a short gear that connects to a long shafts that drives the shuttle (that you access from the back )that can work loose once in a while.The last thing is worn out gears. Oh, if you ever take the plate of take some pics of the gears before you take them out & you'll save yourself hours of time. So maybe just try sewing on it first before you start tearing into it & let us know what happens.

Average for us is $235.00-275.00 but some people might have a freight terminal close to them where they could pick it up.Now for some people in the boonies might cost a little more.So when we do a shipping quote we let people know the terminals in their area & let us know which one would be best for them.

There's a gibe (thin piece of metal) on the right side of the feedcam that has a locking screw that keeps the adjuster screw tight ,so loosen the locking one(it comes in @ a 90 degree angle) then you can tighten it alittle until the play is gone.Then role the machine around & repeat on the other one.

We needed one for our mill, luckily we have 220 single phase search the net found direction how to make one using a 3phase motor with more hp the then what your 3-phase motor has.I did have some trouble starting the converter motor so I took a single phase 110v to get it spinning, hit the 220v switch.We've used now for 10yrs.The converter motor needs to be delta wound.

Switch the parts, the hardest part is getting the bottom shaft out & changing the take up lever.

Great,I knew you could get it fixed.

All the parts aren't available anymore & if you could get all the parts there's some machining you'll have to figure out as you'd never be able to get any blueprints for it.

There are 2 styles of servos one has a computer chip in it,it doesn't have a brake,it uses electronics to stop,we did use that style until I got tired of the boards burning out & they are much harder to adjust the speed on(you have to do a 3-step process) so we found these motors w/a built-in brake are much more reliable & you just turn a knob for the speed control.The way the machines are set up you can get the needle up or down by a light tap on the pedal.

Usually the screw is in there & that's what makes it tight,but since it's missing then Yes you just need to force it backwards harder,remember it was a pretty strong force forward that made this happen.Do be afraid you won't hurt anything by going backwards since it jammed forward & your stuck on the long stitch length.Take the belt off hold the button & it'll hold itself & get both hands on it.

Yes,it should sew up to around a total of 20oz or 5/15" thick

You just have to get the cover on it & get the plunger in the groove & force the handwheel backwards (to shorten the stitch) as hard a you can & it will work again. !

It is jammed against the stop screw take the cover off over the stitch length & loosen the large screw & it should unjam it for you.

The Lockstich needles might work in this machine BUT,it isn't a lockstitch machine,it makes a chainstitch. HTH

Hey Colt, Congrats on the Honeymoon!! Anytime you have a question feel free to give us a call.Our motor has a brake in it that is on when your foot is off the pedal,so yes you'll have to push the pedal down alittle to release it,then the machine will turn by hand.Once you get used to it though you can press real lightly & stop the needle wherever you want it to be.The belts need to be as tight as they need to be or they'll slip when you start sewing thick. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Thanks, Bob