CowboyBob

Hello Jeff, That's a great looking first sheath there.Since your not sewing that thick you might try loosening up the foot pressure a couple of turns that will lessen the marking.(The black knob on top)

Great looking setup you have there! 108's are great binding machines.

This machine looks like a Singer 34 & has the same type of shuttle that looks like a patcher only larger than the big bobbin 29.It has to spin for the machine to sew.

Mike,If your having problems getting needles I'm guessing your using the 16x63? Adjust the machine to use 135x17 & you will have a lot more choices of needle sizes & points available.There's very little difference between them.We also found that the machine will skip less since the 135x17 & 16 have a scarf on them which allows the shuttle to run closer to the needle.

Mike,all the brushless have an (electronic brake) not mechanical like the motors you bought from me.We had a lot of problems with the brushless with the boards burning out & stopped selling them yrs ago.

LOL!!

It's a 9/64-40 tpi, length is 9 mm.I doubt a hardware will have it in stock BUT we do.

Does the base have the clutch & motor on it?If so I'd say real close to 300Lbs.

I've welded a lot of beds over the years & on this one it would be best to v-grind it for more contact & either braze or heat & I've used nickle rod,brazing is the best,with a torch.

Yes,too loose upper thread will do this,so will the bobbincase position bracket if it isn't adjusted to allow the thread to pass(this is the part that keeps the inner hook basket from turning) take the needle plate off & turn it by hand with #92 in the needle & see if it catches as it goes past the little finger.If it catches,loosen the screw on it & adj it away from the hook alittle or sometimes you just have to bend it,a little @ a time to get it right.

I have a few of these I'm parting out if you show a pic of what you need I'll let you know if I have it.

You could try a size #415

The problem with this machine is the feet come w/teeth on them ( which can be ground off) but you also need the teeth of the feed dogs to pull the leather,if there worn some they won't mark as bad.It will use up to #138 thread we have the standard double toe foot in stock & one side or the other can be cutoff as needed.We also stock a lot of other parts for this model too.

Yes,a splitter with a stationary blade is for heavier ,thicker stiff leather,if you want to split thin soft leather you need band knife splitter,they are somewhat like a bandsaw & very expensive.They come in widths 12" & wider & of course the wider it is the more it costs,a 24" machine is approx. $16,000 new,used ones are hard to find but at least 1/2 the price. Here's some info on a used one;http://www.dgxiangdi.com/product-detail-used_camoga_c520r_band_knife_leather_splitting_machine-259.html

Steve,I'm so glad to know you like the servo.They sure make sewing a lot easier when you can control the speed & have the power you need too. Thanks for the kind words!! Bob

They have a 29-4 so 29K the hub & shaft won't fit,since it only has 2-holes & the 29K hub has 3.

Looks great,esp for the first one.

Just so you know the shipping weight,the 29K standard arm weighs 60Lb or 27Kg,the 18 class weighs 38Lbs or 17Kg.

I'll 2nd that it's a 18class.

That's strange that the poly is breaking,I've never really noticed any difference between the 2 types.

Is there a difference between nylon and polyester? While nylon has a lower denier thickness than polyester does, it is inherently stronger than polyester on a weight-for-weight basis. ... This also means that nylon takes longer to dry than polyester does. The durability, mold resistance and ease of cleaning is so close between these two fabrics.

Looping underneath is almost one of 2-things,either miss-threaded needle thread or upper tension too loose. Try tightening your upper tension 1/2 a turn @ a time until it clears up.

Hey Mike in the pic Yetibelle posted you can see there's parts missing,like the blower & drill.Years ago we used to buy a pulley that that had a tapered split bushing on it w/4 bolts that tightened on the shat when you tightened them.it fits on the collar on the rightside of the wheel.

We always have used the Lilly white oil.

It's the earlier model that doesn't have the end cover,we call it an open face,yours is a deep throat harness stitcher it has the thread lock on it.There is no way to date them that I have found.It is in great looking condition.