CowboyBob

When you turn the machine backwards it's possible to jam the thread up in the hook(bobbin case) it won't happen everytime & you might need to turn it backwards alttle if you over run when you wanted to stop.The main thing to do & try to always stop & start with the take up lever @ the highest point.

Yes turn the speed up a little,on some of these motors when you turn down the speed it reduces the starting torque .

Any oil is better than no oil.

Years ago when I first started repairing sewing machines my neighbor wanted me to look @ his mothers machine.I went there & it was a real old White treadle machine.So I looked it over oiled it,threaded it & started to sew & it started getting tighter,so I oiled it again & then it tied up & wouldn't turn.The she started yelling to him in Italian & he started getting upset w/me saying she thought I ruined her machine.I didn't know what to do so I said let me take it with me & fix it.She didn't like the idea but he convinced her it'll be ok.So I took it to work & told the old mechanic what happened & he just started laughing & thought it was really funny.Then he said that's what happens after years of 3 in 1.It builds up a waxing shellac type of crap in the bearings & when I oiled it it expanded & tied it up.He said take to kerosene & put in the bearings,so I did & it freed up.Took it back & she was smiling when I left.So after that I don't want to think about using 3 n1 on anything.ATF,motor oil,gear lube isn't good for most machines either,if it drips off the machine onto what your sewing it'll stain.It is best to use clear sewing machine oil or mineral oil.Even then if someone has used the wrong oil n the past it might stain for a while until it gets worked out of the machine.

Wow Tinker that looks great! Here's our not so fancy setup a 12-24 screw w/a nut on it about 2&1/2" long and a drill.We often need to wind different sizes so this works great for us.

Nice looking machine.The 16 cl needlebar #2050 is 183 mm long

I just thought I'd show these machines off. The smallest one is Singers first model of Industrial Machine & then in later models they had a longer arm,The longest machine is a model3-1,the shorter one in the middle they called standard.All 3 models used a wooden pitman arm to run them instead of a belt.I do have the treadles for them & they don't treadle real easy.

Yes,the singer 16 is .285 BUT the 34K we have here measures .373 & is like a 45K upper arm?I noticed yours is a SV maybe that's why?

Turn up the radio,the gears always make a noise on these machines.

There is a hole behind the spool pin on top of the machine that you put a screwdriver in & turn to the left to loosen.If you look @ the back of the machine you can see the long flat spring & where the screw makes contact w/it.

There's a flat tension release lever on the back of the tension hold on w/2 screws(it's what pushes on the pin),you can bend it towards the pin to eliminate the gap in the pin,then the discs will open.You need alittle gap between the pin & this lever or it'll hold the tension discs open & you'll get no tension.

This machine would work great for canvas or nylon webbing BUT both the feet & feed dogs have teeth that will mark the leather.

It was made for thin clothing type of material like mens dress pants bottom hem.There isn't any use for this machine in leather sewing.

Yes,you can turn the foot while sewing & sew a circle.

The best & easiest way is to take the long belt from the reducer to the machine off & loosen the motor belt alittle by using the adjustment on it & then when you push the speed reducer down just 1/4" or so it will push real easy then tighten everything back,put the belts on & try it.

The cons of monofilament are the sun breaks it down real quick maybe 2-3 yrs,it can also cut into vinyl,it's better to use it on cloth type of material for that reason & if you use it a lot it cuts into the thread guides & tension unit & after while it cuts grooves in the hook.

Looping on the bottom is always the top(needle) thread,it is either #1 threaded incorrectly(you need to make sure your going around the 2nd tension 1&1/2x) OR #2 the top tension is too loose so tighten it 1/2 turn @ a time (the top one on the back)

Now the fun begins,trying to get the belt through the slot,when you do get it in there,make sure to have your take up lever at the top of it's travel & the arrows lined up on the bottom shaft when you slide the belt on.If it isn't correct the machine won't sew,DON"T retime the hook,take the belt off & move it a notch one way or the other & it will start sewing. Run some sandpaper around the shaft before you put the bearing back on & the bearing will slide on easier.

Constabulary is right,the 135x17 or 135x16D(leather point) should work,that is what we always sell for these machines & they are very easy to find.You might have to drop the needlebar down 1/8" to make them work.

Lookup timing belt change on Singer 111w155(same belt replacement) the top shaft does not have to come out,take the handwheel off,then loosen bearing screw in back & then loosen the 2-collar screws on the inside,take bearing off ,we cut the old belt off if it isn't broke,then insert the new belt through the gap where the bearing was.Put take up lever all the way up & lineup arrows on collar or dots on lower shaft & slide belt on.

Thread fraying can be caused by a chewed up needle hole in the needle plate,the 1300 might be balling up because it isn't threaded correctly,not enough upper thread tension or the thread is too big for it,the 1300 is for sewing clothes not leather.

Yes,the 1541 will sew awnings w/o any problems.

What are you sewing that you need a heavier machine than the 1541? Like Greg said they will sew pretty heavy,There isn't much else like this that feet interchange with that will be reasonable other than a used 1541 which are kinda hard to find.The 1541 handwheel is alittle larger than the 206 making it easier to control in thick material too.

Yes,the 1508,1541,206 & even old Singer 111w,211 feet interchange.

The 1508 bobbin is only 1/8" larger than the 1541,the 226 is smaller & the Consew is the same size.Machines with bobbins that load underneath like the 206 & 1541 will have many parts & be very similar to sew with.The 1508 that loads from the top is easier to jam up if you aren't careful.It is best to stay with a similar machine if you plan on getting another one so your bobbins,threading & operation is pretty much the same.Also id you get spare parts like bobbins,bobbin cases & etc they will interchange.