Brianm77

Is it like a lot of pull up leathers were you can use pressure of your fingers and rub and make it go away or is it to deep for that?

Can you post a picture?

Yup

If what you are making is a vest then one could get the pattern from the fabric store or hobby store in the sewing section. Just keep in mind, the seams will probably be a lolittle different, so adjust before you cut it out. As far as we're to go from there I am out, I got nothing. Good luck, Brian

So, I have been thinking about turning a press into a clicker. My question is, any reason you should dedicate your press to being a clicker, over just setting some plates on top of your die and getting after it?

I can't speak to the awl much. I don't use mine unless I need to make a hole bigger for what ever reason. However you mentioned the chisels and I have a little experience with those. I bought these on amazon for about $13 for the set. For 1mm thread I use the 5mm version. Pictured is the 4mm. They seam to be pretty good quality. I have been pretty happy with them. And I pound all the way through at least 10oz maybe more, no awl needed. I put a piece of scrap leather and a soft 1x4 under my project. You don't want to drive them into you work bench or your stone. You have to be careful with the cheap Chinese thread on eBay. I bought some to try, what I got in I was not really happy with. You can make the color fade with just a little pressure of your finger. There are sellers on eBay and rmleather supply and also egyptianleather on Etsy sell small quantities of tiger thread. It costs more per foot but is less money up front. I am also thinking about doing something similar with some thread that is a very close kin to tiger thread called serabraid. Hope that helps at least a little, Brian

I have been playing with this for a while. Best thing I have found is a heavy piece of steel. Works on softballs too which is a lot more stubborn. I use a piece that weighs about 30lbs. They were some scraps I found at the steel yard, about an inch thick. But I have noticed once flattened out if left unchecked it will get some of the cup back in. When I glue these together, I slather a good coat of weldwood on both sides, stitch about half way around and stick under the plate before the glue has a chance to set. I leave it alone overnight. Even after all that, a very little cup or twist is not uncommon when all is said and done. If you can come up with a design to cut some I've the cup out of the leather it will help quite a bit. Side note, the cover on baseballs is real leather, the cover on softballs is thinner than the leather used on big box store wallets, glued on some kind of backer. http://tntanningcompany.com/index.html this is the company that makes the leather for the balls used by Major League Baseball. It is a company owned by Rawlings. I think they sell baseball leather. I called to ask, another guy was supposed to call me back and never did and I never followed up.

You could make dog collars,as kind of a practice belt. If you mess up, not near as much time and material lost. Not near as much stitching either, but you could make them the same as a belt only smaller.

Lol, sounds like you are gonna be all set on chisels for a while...

I know overheating will brand the leather and that is not usually what you want. From the research I have done you want it hot enough to be to hot to hold hand on but not so hot to burn you. But I am just starting to think about hot creasing myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Gaosi-Tools-Leathercraft-Carving-Aluminum/dp/B011L5NW02/ref=sr_1_50?ie=UTF8&qid=1490665256&sr=8-50&keywords=Gaosi+Tools I have been using hammers since I was 8 or 10. I am almost 40 now. At work I use very expensive tools to include hammers. When I picked up leatherwork a few months ago, I picked up the maul and hammer version of this (hammer is black plastic). Now I am not by any means saying this is as good as your barry king or some such. But it deals pretty good in your hand. It has a good balance and I feel like the head will last a long while. My stitching chisels do more damage than my stamps to the head. I have to hit harder and they have a sharper edge. When the head wears out, it looks as if I could put a rawhide head on them or wood on the mallet. And if not they were close to $20 shipped. My $.02

If you are interested I could do the same with those craft sha ones I was talking about.

Different manufactures measure differently. I have a couple craft sha chisels. 1.5 mm is about 9spi

Lol. Maybe I can get you to stamp a few lines on a couple pieces of scrap and send it to me.

Imma give it a couple daddy's, if I don't find any others I may order the ones off amazon.

I saw the ones on amazon. My only concern with those was the shape of the handle. Looked to me like they were not going to be comfortable to use with that huge flat spot on the end of the handle. But I find it hard to believe those are the only ones.

would anyone know where to find creasers similar to these? I like the girth of the blades over the little tiny stuff you mostly see. Thanks, Brian edit - the plain ones, not the adjustable one.

Get creative, you can create a border with a pair of divider, modeling tool, butter knife might even turn out ok. Go slow, might take a couple passes. nice looking holster anyway.

Yes, good stuff. Thanks guys

Never would have thought polypropylene would work in a wood planer.

They were not, I did not figure that would show up in the pic.

No, the Japanese ones measure differently

They are 1.5mm craft sha.

You can get rubber stamps and ink pretty cheap from hobby lobby or the like. As far as color fastness all I could say is you would have to try it. I would tend to think that it would be pretty good and someone else doing it, unless they are local, is probably cost prohibitive. Adding shipping twice to the cost of customization would probably make it more than someone would want to spend.