Lobo

Perhaps I should clarify my use of the drying cabinet, based upon some of the follow-up discussion. During the wet-forming process I used another heating process to maintain 125-130F with a timer. Working from thoroughly dampened for initial forming, then 15 minutes in the heat, then detail forming, then 15 minutes in the heat, then boning. After boning the piece went into the hot box, usually 3 to 4 hours. The piece was then ready for edge work (sanding, beveling, burnishing) followed by sealing and finishing. The "hot box" maintained 104-109F and worked very well for setting and curing dyes, sealer, and finish applications. Each piece could remain in the hot box for hours; I remember a couple of times when I left a batch in overnight because I forgot to turn it off before leaving the shop. No problems at all. The temps maintained in the hot box were not (in my opinion) optimal for achieving the collagen effects, which require a higher level of heat. The family who purchased my business have transitioned to a large food dehydrator, capable of maintaining the desired temperatures with plenty of air flow to evacuate evaporating moisture. I really like the dehydrator for these uses, and I wish I had known about them years earlier!

Had another thought about this post and looked up another post I made a few years ago about a drying cabinet to help speed up production times. I remember using this on occasion to turn out a holster order in a day, using it for setting the dyes and finish coats, and complete drying after forming/boning. Easy to make, inexpensive, efficient.

Sorry, but I just can't resist! Just how fat is the lady we are building a corset for?

Probably the easiest way to deal with this issue is using a drum sander to dress the edges after assembly and stitching, then bevel edges, then burnish normally. I dampened the leather prior to sanding, which allows the wet fibers to fall on the bench instead of polluting the air where I am working. After sanding the outer edges are splayed out a bit, ready for the beveling tool to cut them away cleanly. Lots of methods for burnishing, and it could start a long discussion on what others do, how they do it, and why. My method evolved over time and experience. After sanding the finished edge smooth and beveling I applied dye to even out the coloring, then rubbed the edges with a mixture of waxes (50% paraffin, 50% beeswax), then burnished on a very hard felt wheel turning at about 1700RPM. Friction melts the wax and forces it into the leather fibers, and the polishing effect leaves the edge as slick and pretty as anything you can imagine. The entire process takes only a few minutes per piece. I can do 15 or more per hour easily. The waxed and burnished edges not only look great, they are very resistant to moisture and abrasion. When long-term use starts to cause a little bit of wear the holster can be burnished again and look as good as new.

The S&W Model 29 (and companion 629 in stainless) is made on the large "N" frame and also features the longest cylinder length used in that series. Barrel profiles will vary quite a bit, but most are the heavier "bull barrels" (the exception being the Mountain Gun series). What came to be known as the N-frame started out as the large-frame Hand Ejector series very early in the 20th Century. The Model 29 is a model number designation dating from about 1960 or so, when S&W started using such numbers in lieu of the original marketing names. Originally, the 29 was known simply as the .44 Magnum model. All of the N-frame revolvers share the same frame dimensions, trigger guard profiles, and other major design features. The differences will come primarily in cylinder lengths (depending on calibers from .38 to .45), fixed or adjustable rear sights, and barrel profiles. Probably 3 representative pieces will make holsters usable for all, except the high-end "hunter" and "silhouette" models with crazy barrel profiles and attachment rails for scopes and other accessories. Finding "dummy guns" for any of the revolvers has become a tedious challenge. Contrary to some beliefs, dummy guns are not made for holster forming, they are made for training purposes (law enforcement and security forces), so what might be available at any given time is usually limited to the most common and popular makes and models in current production. There is a significant and enduring market for good revolver holsters, so those in the business can benefit from investing in the necessary tools for patterning and forming work. In my shop I kept several N-frames including a Model 29 6.5", Model 629 3", Model 28 4" Highway Patrolman, Model 625 .45 caliber, Model 1917 US Army, and a .38-44 Heavy Duty Outdoorsman. That combination allowed me to make holsters for probably 98% of all N-frame S&W revolvers. Unfortunately for today's small shop operator, those same revolvers would cost thousands of dollars to purchase. There would have to be a steady stream of new orders to justify the investment; but the investment is exactly that, not an expense but an asset that grows in value over time. The guns I acquired over the years for use in the holster work provided a very nice dividend for my retirement fund!

I always wanted a minimum of 12 hours between steps in the production process, particularly anything that uses liquid in the process (dyeing, oiling, sealing, finishing, wet-forming). Of course, that is more difficult to do when making one item at a time from beginning to end. I liked working with batches of about 10 pieces (holsters, pouches, etc) doing each step in the process 10 times, then moving on to the next step (or next batch) during the next working session. The way it usually worked out was 5 work sessions (morning or afternoon typically) to complete each batch, then 2 days (weekend usually) for final finishes to cure, then get all the orders packaged for delivery to the customers. Each batch was composed of about 10 orders based upon like features (dye colors, lined vs. unlined, plain vs. tooled, etc). An order for several matching pieces (holster, mag pouch, belt, etc) would be done at the same time so that dye results could be monitored in the different hides and leather weights used. Usually 3 batches per week moving through the work stations. Occasionally I would have an order for multiple items going to one customer (retailer, military or LE agency) so I would add that as a fourth batch for the week. Almost always worked out to 30-50 pieces per week in order to keep up with promised delivery dates. I admit to "fudging" a bit on my promised production times. If you promise completion in "about 6 weeks" and get the order out the door in 4 or 5 weeks all is good; but if you take 43 days you can have a customer on your back and screaming in your ear! The only times I had anything on hand for immediate sale was when mistakes were made. Customer ordered left-hand, a right-hand was produced. Customer ordered smooth leather lining, suede lining installed (or no lining). Sometimes there will be a cosmetic issue, a bit of scar tissue that was not readily apparent until after dyeing, then showed up as an ugly mark. Lots of ways to make mistakes, especially when you are in "cruise control mode" at the bench. Those items were listed on the website with a description of any issues, priced at a discount (small or large), and usually went away quickly. Of course, major problems became chew toys for the dogs. For about a year I kept track of the actual time spent on production work, my own and my assistant's. Working in the ways described we were turning out one completed product for every 47 minutes of shop time. There is simply no way to do this work one unit at a time and maintain that level of production. Just the waiting periods after dyeing, sealing, final finish, etc, make it difficult to complete a single piece from beginning to end in less than 2 or 3 days. Sure, someone will come along and argue that point and tell us how they do it all the time in a single day, and that is fine with me. I'm just describing what I found to work in my shop. Setting up a stitching machine to sew with white, brown, or black thread takes 20 minutes or so. Why do it constantly for each order when you can do it once and stitch a dozen pieces before any further adjustments? Same with the dye stations, set up and clean up when changing from black to another color selection, do it one time and proceed with a batch of items. Of course, we can play like the big companies, purchasing pre-dyed hides, running multiple stitching machines for each thread color, and so on. That would be the ultimate goal for those making the transition from a small production shop to a manufacturing shop, and the savings in time and labor would be great. Meanwhile, for the smaller production shop the guy responsible for keeping it going is spending hours per day at the benches, hours per day dealing with customers, and additional time monitoring inventory of materials and supplies, dealing with suppliers, working on advertising, taking care of the accounting, paying the bills and running deposits to the bank. Usually done all alone by one person, and it can become a 7-day per week contest to keep everything moving along.

I am impressed by your inventive approach! Everything you need with nothing you don't need. Perfect for the intended uses.

Your floral carving work is absolutely beautiful, Rocksnake. Best regards!

I truly admire the craftsmanship demonstrated by a well done toe plug in a holster. There really is no simple or easy way to accomplish the goal, and either it is perfectly done or it stands out like ugly on an ape. I think this is a disappearing feature that will be seen very little in future creations. The time involved in doing this type of work will drive up the market price of the end product to a point that cannot be sustained. I have done a few over the years. I won't brag on my abilities, especially when compared to some of the master craftsmen of prior years. I can say without hesitation that the time to get one toe plug done right is equivalent to the time required to assemble and stitch two or three common pancake or scabbard-style holsters without such a feature. Like it or not, the leather crafting business is all about turning time into profits. In 1972 I was happily making simple pancake-style holsters for $6 or $7, maybe $2 more for a thumb-break, and police duty holsters for $15 or so. But I lived in a $18,000 house and drove a $2500 car while working as a city cop for $9,000 per year salary. An extra $20 or so per week was very welcome at that time. By the time of my retirement in 2015 I was making an average of nearly 40 pieces per week. I was paying about $14 for materials average per completed piece. My work shop cost more than 4 times as much as my house payments back in 1972. I was paying a trainee-apprentice $15 to $20 per hour to do the basics (layout, cutting, dyeing, finish work, some assembly and stitching) while also working about 80 hours per week myself. I doubt that very many customers would see the value in a holster with sewn-in toe plug priced at double the going rate for another design without that feature, but that is what it would take to compensate the time involved in such work.

Right on! I must have made and delivered a couple of thousand gun belts, two layer construction cemented and stitched. Never had a problem with a single one. For CCW trouser belts I liked to use two straps totaling about 13 - 14 oz. in weight (one strap of 7/8 with another of 5/6, or two straps of 6/7). Always purchased my leather by the side (usually 22 to 25 sq. ft.) and the first thing taken out would be 8 or 10 belt straps, cut diagonally from belly to back in lengths from about 50" to 65" which will make just about any common belt lengths. Assembly was done back to belly on the length of the straps, which usually evens out the differences in hide thickness. In my opinion, two layers cemented and stitched are stronger and less likely to stretch in use than a single layer of equal weight. Kind of like plywood, multiple layers laid up with solid bonding providing greater strength than a single layer of wood. I used Fiebings Tanners Bond to cement the layers together, then a 10-lb. round steel billet rolled over the pieces to bond them securely, then stitched together. Contact cement will work very well also, but I liked having a little more working time with the Fiebings cement. Either way there is plenty of flexibility in the finished belt to conform to the body during use. Allow each newly cemented belt blank to thoroughly cure before proceeding with the other processes. Rushing through any part of the process is a sure method for failure. The cement may be dry to the touch in a half-hour, but overnight provides even better adhesion.

In public school at about 12 years of age, crafts class included a little bit of leather crafting. Enjoyed it, but no strong connection made. Age 22, as a young police officer with a mortgage to pay and kids to feed, I started making holsters and accessories for myself. Others who worked with me saw what I was doing and started asking me to make things for them. That led to a little part-time sideline business for the following 35 years. In 2007 and 2008 the US economy was circling the toilet bowl. My usual business had slowed considerably and I was looking for ways to add a little income. Started offering my holsters on-line, primarily on eBay. That led to requests for more products, and by 2008 I had my website up and running. I had to rent commercial space for production work and was soon working 7 days per week filling orders. By 2009 I had moved into larger quarters and hired a helper to assist with basic production work. Completing an average of 2000 orders per year for customers in all 50 US states and 33 other countries. Ideas that had been percolating in my brain for years kept guiding me in new designs, primarily focused on improvements to earlier developments by others. Introduced several new lines that were well received on the market. In 2015 I was just plain tired. 65 years old, arthritis, carpal tunnel, cubital tunnel, shoulder surgeries, cataract surgeries, the handwriting was on the wall. I could not continue doing the work. Stopped taking new orders, finished up everything pending, kept the shop open for warranty work only. Then a good family of leather workers (other product lines) stepped up and purchased my business, continuing the trade name and all of my designs. Now I am a consultant, sharing ideas for products and production methods with the new owners. Comfortably retired and debt-free. Income from the sale covered our retirement home and funded the first few years of retirement. Now I can draw on my retirement funds and investment accounts to live pretty well. It was a good ride. Best advice I can offer is to keep it manageable, always remember that it is a business and not a hobby, be careful what you commit to do, avoid debt like the plague, and be very careful about relying on any hired help (everyone wants a job and a paycheck, but very few seem willing to show up everyday, on time, do what they promised to do, or clean up after themselves). Your name and reputation goes with every product you sell, so you have to do it right and stand behind it. Best regards.

The amazing thing to me is that people still want to do business with the bozos running that site.

Beautiful work! I had numerous call signs during my time in the Army (airborne infantry pathfinders, Vietnam 1969-71). Then I had more call signs as a city cop. Went on to a state agency, more call signs. Finished up as a small town police chief, another call sign. Most fun I had was the state agency. One of my functions as a supervisory investigator was coordinating radio communications with the state patrol, so I got to make up everyone's call signs. Mine was G-2, everyone else was G-3 through G-8, I saved "Gee Wiz" for the boss. The paperwork was already done so he had to live with that.

Two young baseball umpires arguing about how to do their job properly. One guy says "I just call them as I see them". Second guy says "I call them as they are". Old umpire interrupts and says, "Boys, they ain't nothing until I call them".

The first thing I noticed is the very generous allowance of space around the front strap of the grip frame allowing a solid "shooting grip" during the draw. Far too many holster designs fall short on this, forcing the user to juggle the pistol in the hand before being able to service a target. I don't view the issue of stitch-line as anything other than a matter of the style selected for the holster. The location of the stitch-line used on this piece is entirely correct for many holster designs for over a century. The more recent trend toward moving stitch-lines in close around the handgun profile is a modern design feature, but none of the old-time great makers found it an essential element. Looks like an entirely practical holster design for the small and lightweight P22. Best regards.

Dwight: I'll take all the old '38 Ford coupes I can get, and I'll be happy to pay sticker price for them! 43 years pounding hides and I always had a new idea percolating in my head, usually at least one project moving from mental image to design, to prototype, to function testing. Most ended up as chew toys for the dogs or play things for the kids. A few made it into regular production and earned me some income and market share. Seriously, during the time I was active in the holster business I offered 13 holster designs, with or without 4 common options, left-hand or right-hand, in 4 finish colors, for 130 different handgun models. That resulted in over 80,000 possible variations, but people always wanted something else. I did business via website and e-mail, receiving an average of 35 e-mails every day and spending a couple of hours responding to questions, acknowledging orders, estimating production times, and dealing with every week's graduating class from the Holster Genius School. I made a point of NEVER publishing my phone number simply because 30 phone calls per day, each eating 10 minutes of my time, would require 5 hours every day! Custom work, by definition, is one-of-a-kind production to individual customer specifications. That is all fine, but only if Mr. Customer is willing to pay for the hours of discussions and for the 2, 3, 4 or more iterations of patterning and prototype production to achieve the desired result. Making a single holster from start to finish, starting with a blank piece of paper, working from concept to pattern, then a prototype, followed by adjusting the pattern until everything comes together, all these things take hours and hours of time (and dollars worth of materials and shop supplies). How much can we charge each customer to make that commitment of time and resources? How many customers are willing to pay multiples of retail pricing to get that one-of-a-kind result? I can hear them now: WHO DO YOU THINK YOU ARE? JOHN BIANCHI? ROY BAKER? SAM MYRES? A.W. BRILL? I remember the guy who had a very specific idea for a knife sheath, bent my ear for a couple of hours describing just what he wanted. I asked him what he expected to pay for it, he replied "How about $20?" I told him that would cover the materials, but the 2 or 3 hours of work would cost a little bit more. The guy is a union electrician, probably makes $50 per hour but can't understand anyone else being worth minimum wage. One of my little brain farts involved laser-etching of holsters, including such things as military unit crests or police department badges. All that was required was a clear scan of the item to be depicted, my laser guy could load that into his computer-driven laser and reproduce just about any image you can imagine. I spent a lot of time and effort on that little project, then offered the service at a modest price as an optional feature. In a year's time that resulted in 7 orders. Lots of wasted time for no gain. Had an idea rattling around in my head for a couple of years for a different approach to IWB-style holsters, and I fiddled around with it through several prototype projects as time allowed. The project stalled with my discovery that it would require a new and different type of belt clip design to support and secure the holstered handgun. I found a clip manufacturer willing to take on the project for an initial order of 500 pieces, sent a check for the first production run, received an estimated production date, then a year went by with nothing, the company shut down, and I never saw a clip or my money again. Two years went by and I found another manufacturer who produced what I wanted, the product was developed and went on the website, and it became one of my best selling models (but only about 3 years after the initial concept). My point is that the time spent on developing a new design is an investment in the future. If the new idea is successful it can become profitable by multiple orders on a regular basis. If the idea is a one-of-a-kind custom job all of that time and effort has to be paid for to justify the investment. There is true "custom" work, and there is "customized" production work. A fairly standard holster design can be "customized" by incorporating unique features (exotic leathers, hand-carving, unique tooling patterns, etc). This can be a way to generate interest and desire for the customer to order from you instead of shopping with your competition. In my mind this is working "smart" instead of working "very hard". By the way, like you experienced I have also had a customer wanting a belt with cartridge loops, then discovering that there is no way to put it through the belt loops with cartridges in the loops. One of those things that if we thought about it for a few minutes in advance we would mention to Mr. Customer that maybe it wouldn't work quite like he envisioned. I have also had customers wanting 12-round cartridge loop carriers for .44 caliber ammo, then complaining that the carrier would not ride on the belt in the position they wanted. Somehow I messed up the job because 12 loops for .44 caliber revolver cartridges take up about ten inches of belt space, no way to shrink the dimensions! I'm sure it was all my fault. Then there was the young cop who just had to have a double magazine pouch with handcuff case and tactical light holder. Comfortable in use? Concealable? You can guess the answers to those questions. I'm sure it was all my fault. Nice guy wanted a holster, belt, and mag pouch in horn alligator hide. I sourced the alligator hide and quoted my regular prices for the items plus the cost of the hide. Mr. Customer had no kind words for me at all! I was the worst kind of thieving bottom-feeder in his estimation. Another customer had a tanned elephant hide from an African safari years ago, wanted a couple of holsters, belts, accessories made of it. I asked him to send me a small piece, determined it was chrome-tanned (very soft), but it was very nice and distinctive in appearance. I suggested bonding the elephant to veg-tanned cowhide, then producing his pieces with the elephant on the exposed portions. Worked like a dream! Mr. Customer got everything he wanted at very modest prices, allowed me to keep all the leftover elephant leather as a little bonus. I then cranked out several holsters and belts for some good prices! More rambling from an old retired guy with arthritic hands, wrists, elbows, shoulders, and no longer capable of doing the work. Thank God, a good family of great leather craftsmen bought my business and keep it running today!

Just about every week there is a new graduating class at the Holster Genius School. Having qualified by reading a book, two gun magazines, and a half-dozen internet forums, the new graduate has a mental image for the "perfect holster". All he needs is someone to turn that mental image into reality. Convertible IWB/OWB, strong side/cross-draw, SOB option, connection for shoulder harness (ambidextrous of course), and pocket carry in Speedo's with a tank top. Ride heights so far above the belt that altitude sickness can become a factor (not to mention gravity's effect on the loaded handgun). Why shouldn't a western buscadero rig be fully concealable in a tube top? Those who wish to spend hours discussing a "custom" project, then work up a preliminary pattern for customer approval, then produce a prototype, then revise the pattern based on customer review, make another prototype, maybe finally get the customer's "go ahead" order to produce, then have Mr. Customer throw a fit about the final finish with his selection of dye color, I say GO FOR IT! What can you charge for a single holster order that could justify 6, 8, 10, 12 or 20 hours of your time? What will you do with Mr. Customer's "great idea" project when he sees that it won't work as he thought it should and refuses to pay for it? Maybe the worst case, but what do you do when the customer really has a good idea, you make one for him, and then crank out a hundred more for the retail market. Then he comes back with his lawyer demanding royalties for the use of his intellectual property rights? Some of my better ideas about holster design and production methods spent a year or two fermenting in my brain before I took out a piece of paper and started drawing. A drawing might become a pattern for a prototype testing piece. That pattern might require a dozen modifications, each one requiring a prototype piece to test in actual use. The final design might be ready for production a year or two after my first brain fart, and the marketplace never guarantees acceptance or reward for the effort. Quite a few of my other ideas turned into chew toys for the dogs. During most of my years in the business my usual response to requests for custom work were pretty simple: $60 per hour plus materials and shop supplies. How long will it take? I don't know, I haven't done it yet. Realistically, send me a couple hundred bucks and I'll get started, when the money runs out you can decide whether or not to continue. Whatever exists at any point in time belongs to you. Whether or not it works is not my problem, it is your idea and not mine. Faced with reality, very few want to play. I'm an old retired guy. The nice folks who work on my cars charge $85 per hour for shop time. The good guy who takes care of my plumbing needs charges $100 for a service call, then tells me what it will cost to do what needs to be done. Nice man who takes care of my landscaping and lawn needs charged me $40 per hour to plant the shrubs my wife wanted. My dentist doesn't work for nothing. The lawyer who helped us settle an estate for an elderly family member charged us $350 per hour, and every time papers needed to be filed with the courts there was another $100 for the filing fees. Having a hobby is nice. Running a business requires a plan and discipline.

I have posted this before but it bears repeating: Those who take on custom work should understand that when the customer's great idea doesn't work out exactly as he envisioned he will never remember that it was all his stupid idea, but he will always remember the guy who failed to make his dream a reality.

Another thought: Opening wholesale accounts with suppliers usually requires little more than a FEIN (federal employer identification number, easily obtainable on-line from IRS) or a business sales tax license (local city or county authority). With those in hand you will find most wholesale suppliers happy to do business with you, and your per unit costs will drop by big margins (and margins are where we find PROFIT).

A couple of thoughts: 1. Tandy is a specialty retailer, so the prices are at the upper end of the scale for most items. Opening an account with Springfield Leather Company (see banner ads) will allow you to purchase a greater variety of supplies and tools at significantly lower prices per unit. 2. Much of the leather (if not all of it) offered by Tandy is from imported hides so the quality may not be equal to the leathers from Hermann Oak or Wicket & Craig (the two major US tanneries). Springfield Leather can also help you with these needs, offering Hermann Oak as sides, shoulders, and even by the square foot at prices that are usually lower than Tandy's retail outlets. Also, no worries about hides from Mexico, South America, or parts of Asia where the use of animal urine and feces remains common in the tanning processes (YUCK! WE ARE MAKING PRODUCTS TO BE CARRIED NEXT TO THE BODY!). 3. Dyes are much more economical when purchased in larger quantities. A quart costs little more than the 4-oz. retail bottles, and gallons are much more economical. Also, purchasing in larger quantities helps to maintain a more consistent result (dyes vary a bit from lot to lot, I always liked to use a half gallon, then blend in half of the next gallon to keep my dye results as uniform as possible). 4. Rings Blue Guns, Duncan Customs, and other dummies are useful. But they are not available for all makes or models, and they have little resale value. Years ago I started purchasing the actual handguns when I needed to add something new to the product line. My thinking? (A) For a holster maker the costs are tax-deductible business expenses; and (B) quality firearms not only retain their value over the long term, but actually increase in value over the years. Every time a new handgun model hits the market there will be demand for holsters, but dummy guns are seldom available until a new model has been on the market for a year or more, many are never offered as dummies, and dummy production stops as soon as a gun's market share declines. I was able to steal the march on several new handgun models, purchasing the new gun and getting it into holster production for months before many other makers were equipped to handle it. $500 for a gun to complete a single order is not smart, but $500 for a gun to complete dozens of orders, then still have the gun for future use and investment value is a pretty good business plan! When I retired I had about 100 various handguns in several gun safes, and that has functioned very much like a retirement fund for me! Naturally, once a piece of business property or tooling has been fully depreciated the asset is assumed to have zero value, and upon sale the amount realized must be reported as a long-term capital gain for tax purposes (and we all know enough to be straightforward and honest on our tax returns, right?). More ramblings from an old retired hide pounder.

Never tried Windex for wet-forming. I have used isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), which evaporates very rapidly and also has an effect similar to applying heat during the drying process. This can be useful when we have a quantity of smaller items (like magazine pouches, speedloader pouches, ammo pouches, etc) to move through production expeditiously. Working time is quite short, so we have to move right along as we are doing this phase of the work. Two cautions to keep in mind: 1. The evaporating alcohol fumes are flammable. Best to keep the work away from any possible sources of ignition or high heat. Good ventilation is needed. 2. The alcohol leaves veg-tanned cowhide very dry and rigid, little if any of the natural moisture remaining. I recommend replenishing some moisture prior to sealing and finishing as a prevention against cracking or splitting under stress. I used a light application of neatsfoot oil applied to the outer surfaces only with a dampened sponge or rag, then let the piece sit for 24 hours to allow the oil to migrate through the leather fibers and find its natural balance. Neatsfoot oil is rendered from the feet and lower legs of cattle. It is the natural oil that helps to keep the animals' legs from freezing in cold weather. It can be thought of as "cow oil" because it is an entirely natural substance that can help to preserve and protect veg-tanned cowhide in products for extended hard use.

Two layers of 7/8 makes a total thickness of nearly 1/4". Very difficult to do any close forming work. I have used a couple of combinations that seem to work well and provide a lot of strength in the finished product: Outer layer of 6/7, lining layer of 4/5 or two layers of 5/6. Either combination yields a result totaling 10 to 12 oz (5/32" to 3/16" nominal thickness prior to molding and forming). For those having less experience, each "ounce" of vegetable-tanned cowhide is equal to about 1/64" in thickness, so 4 oz. equals about 1/16", 8 oz. equals about 1/8", etc (the math is pretty straightforward once the basic guideline is understood). For wet-forming we must keep in mind that not only are we dealing with a thick chunk of leather, we are also dealing with the bonding cement between the layers which tends to be a moisture barrier. Wet-forming a holster made of these combinations can be done (including detail boning if desired) when the completed holster is immersed in a bucket of room temperature water for about 1 second per ounce of finished weight, so for these combinations we need about 10 to 12 seconds in the water. Then set the piece aside for a few minutes to allow the water to settle completely in the leather. I would do an initial forming on the pistol or dummy gun, then into the hot box for 10 minutes. Next step is to begin the close forming, then back into the hot box for 10 minutes. Then a final forming and detail boning can be done, followed by about an hour in the hot box. My hot box was an old kitchen wall cabinet, 30" H X 18" W X 12" D. Holsters were suspended by wire hooks from the top, allowing the heated air to move over and through them (convection effect, heated air rises). At the bottom I mounted two 4" electrical ceiling boxes, each with a keyless porcelain lamp holder, 100W incandescent bulb in each fixture, both fixtures on a switch leg with a rheostat (dimmer switch) allowing adjustment of the voltage and lamp output (light and heat). Thermometer at the top of the box to monitor temperature. Internal temperature maintained at 125-130F. That set-up allowed me to form and dry up to a dozen holsters in a production run. The forming work taking place in 3 short working periods of 3 to 5 minutes each piece, so about 4 hours work took care of a production run. Everything was then ready for the next stage in the production process. The combination of moisture and heat provide good forming qualities. The heat releases the collagen within the leather fibers, allowing it to settle into the new patterns created within the fibers by the forming process, thus reinforcing the forming work for lasting effect. Working in batches of 10 to 12 items at a time allowed me to do 3 production runs per week, then spend a day forming and a day on finish work, set everything aside for the finishes to set up and completely dry, then one morning to package everything for delivery to the customers. I usually averaged about 30 holsters, a dozen magazine/ammo pouches, and a half-dozen belts per week, with average shop time of about 47 minutes per completed item. Of course, you have to have the orders to justify the work (or a marketplace ready to display for sale). My point is that our working time can be much more efficient when we are doing multiple items one step at a time, rather than doing one piece at a time from start to finish. I was very fortunate to have a constant flow of orders that allowed me to deliver about 2000 finished products per year regularly. Of course, years of doing this kind of hand work resulted in arthritis, carpal tunnel and cubital tunnel injury, surgeries to my wrists, elbows, and shoulders, and I was eventually unable to continue. That is when I retired and sold the business to a very good family of leather workers who have continued what I started for the past 5-1/2 years. That leaves me as a "consultant", so hear I am consulting away!

That is truly exceptional work! Well done.

One other small point to consider is that the Randall was offered in either right-hand or left-hand versions. The left-hand model was a mirror image, all the various features and controls (safeties, slide release, ejection port, mag release, etc) configured for left-hand operation. Need I say EXTREMELY COLLECTIBLE?

Exceptionally fine craftsmanship and an excellent design!