Rockoboy

That is a sensational piece of art. I bet the boo-boo's can only be seen by you.

WOW! They look great. If there are no problems with copyright, can you please post a plan. I would like to make some of these mocs.

Not the worst looking leatherwork I have seen this week/month/year! (That would be in my "completed items/not for sale" box). Keep it going and you will improve.

So, am I correct in assuming your belt blanks are cut over width, ends and holes punched then the belt is cut to width?

I to, am not sure why some people put the flesh side up, but could it be because it would hold more compound in the fibres on the flesh side? My strops are both flesh side down.

It's been a while since I used mine, but IIRC, I get a better cut if the blade is about a quarter inch or so from the roller. Too far and I get some variation in width of the strap because the leather can move about, and too close allows the roller (which is a little loose on my cutter) to contact the cutting edge.

Is this a one-off job, or something you want to be able to repeat? I have a 30 tonne shop press that I have used to emboss and cut leather with to approximately this size. So long as the stamp is rigid enough, or you use a top plate that is rigid enough, I believe you will have no problem. You probably do not even need to go so heavy as a 30 tonner, but I don't know how heavy will be 'heavy enough'.

Great job. Its almost like holographic paint.

Thank you @KAY9. I am waiting patiently ... so far, but that might change! @Rossr yours is on its way, posted Monday, so hopefully you will get it before the Easter Bunny arrives! One thing I learned, I need to think more about the design I choose. "Sometimes simple is better".

What a magnificent resource. Have these records been preserved on microfiche, CD, hard drive or computer record of some sort?

What a time to be 18,000kms away!

I am not sure what @BarkyKelpie competes in, but my Grandfather used to breed Border Collie's and he competed in sheepdog trials with his dogs.

Hi there and welcome to the forum. The worst thing with kits like you have mentioned in your post, is the cost they charge for accumulating the tools. Two hundred & twenty five pounds seems quite high to me. That Stanley knife might be OK, but they might have a ridiculous price on it when you buy it in the kit. You can buy a similar knife quite cheap in Australia, so I am assuming you can in the UK. Some of the other speciality tools might be lower quality that bend, don't hold an edge or break easily. It's difficult to know without actually knowing the supplier and specifications of each tool or having seen this kit previously. Personally, I would (if I could) make a trip to a supplier to get some ideas about leather types and suitability for which purpose, get some tools in your hands and ask questions about their uses. As for your thought to make some small projects in the beginning, great idea. But you might fine that a dozen or 20 of an identical small project, (like a key fob to give as gifts to family and friends) will help you learn a lot. After cutting out that many similar items, you will more about cutting leather. Then after stamping, edging, dyeing, you will know more about each process. Always save each piece, even if it has a mistake design alteration, because it can be handy for testing out the next process.

I do the same thing, especially if a project is not working out how I thought it would. Sometimes it helps to place it on the side while doing something different ... sometimes it gets left on the side permanently.

The finesse and attention to detail leaves me gobsmacked!

I totally agree. I bought some really good geometric stamps from @arbalet12 Sergey Neskromniy. His gear is CNC machined in brass or stainless steel, so the impressions are sharp and accurate. Tool prices start around $15USD IIRC.

I have for sale, 2(two) Super Perma Lok needles, I bought online and did not realise they were the 125mm (5inch) needles. Just trying to recoup my cost. $7.00AUD each or both for $12.00AUD plus postage to anywhere in the world, from Perth, Western Australia.

I thought we were going to hold off posting finished pics until the item was received ...

Your bag look good to me. Have you checked around to see if there is a leatherwork guild or association near you, where you can get some hands-on advice? Also ask the store where you buy tools and supplies from, about what they have, what it is good for etc. Other than those possibilities, maybe there are members here who are 'not 1000 miles away from you who would share some insight'.

I have a Geo. Barnsley plough gauge. I can get you a pic that blade if its any help?

That is a difficult question to answer, because making paint adhere to plastic is 'sometimes' problematic at best or total failure in the worst case scenario. Sometimes it can be ok, but it all depends on the plastic. All I can suggest would be a test on a scrap piece of the plastic, and see if it is even possible. You might find a slight roughening of the plastic with fine sandpaper, like 400grit, might help, or there are prep-coats available to help paint stick, but they are expensive and might not work for your particular plastic. The prep-coats are used on melamine or 'resin impregnated overlay' products like laminex counter top and splashback material. Where in Australia are you based? You might get more assistance if you show the task to an experienced leatherworker, in person.

Ummm ... can I request you "show everything about edging all types of leather"? please. I can not get my head around oiling before or after applying a dye finish, what wax will do to stop, or not stop, a finish sticking and edge paint is a whole' nother can of worms! Thank you for taking the time to attempt to ejumicate numpties like me!

Any chance you can accompany him on a shoot and take the time yourself to remove the hide carefully? 'Means to an end' sort of thing.

Great looking job. How have you stitched the vertical seam on the cup? My 1st attempt came out 'functional, but incomplete', as I have only glued the base in so far, more effort to come. I also used chrome tanned leather, so I won't be carving it, but proof of purpose has been achieved, so I will be making further dice cups in the future.

When I asked at a leather supplier here in Western Australia, I was told there was no way they would deal with horse hide leather because of the anger and problems caused by horse-lovers. "Been there, done that" was their approximate summation.