Rockoboy

Your pictures file size might be too large. There are several resize apps and programs available. What I do is, email them to myself, then attach, no problem. Emailing appears to resize the pic to reasonable file size, so the upload limits are not a problem. Ohh yeah, good looking workspace you have there.

OHHH! That is so good! You know I am going to steal that idea.

I was not sure initially, on the straight pattern, but now I would be happy with that. Is that stamp from Sergey Neskromniy @arbalet12 ?

Very nice job. Your edges look professionally finished. Some people have suggested on other posts, that the way you have fixed your buckle is actually upside down. I am not so set in my mind for every job, but I think, in this case I would prefer the buckle being fixed to the flap, not the lower front of the bag. Any thoughts after using the bag?

My mistake, I thought that was what you were looking for. So, you are looking for an Operators Manual?

If the size of the gusset is big enough that a stitching chisel will fit, I would glue the 2 pieces together, (PVA, contact cement, double sided tape etc whatever works for you), then hammer the stitching chisel through on the flat sections and slowly rotate the item so 2 or 3 or 4 holes are punched at a time with a small section of the curve on the flat. Alternatively, you could use a stitching wheel or stitching chisel to mark hole spacings on one thickness whilst it is flat on the table, glue the gusset in place, then use an awl to complete the hole.

I think the answer to your question is ... skiving. Reduce the thickness of the edge of the gusset so that it does not wrinkle when it conforms to the shape required. Alternatively, use a series of small V shaped cut-outs around the curve so the 2 pieces of leather are closer to the same shape after stitching.

If you are likely to need any needles in the future, I would recommend you contact @silverback really quickly, because he told me recently he is out of some sizes and he has no chance to replenish stocks, so ... get 'em while they are available.

WOW! That is very impressive! Maybe you could liaise with a library or somebody who is well versed in historical record-keeping. We have a library here in Western Australia, called the J.S. Battye Library of Western Australian History after a previous Librarian and author of historical material. Not your area obviously, but this is the type of organisation I would ask, for information and/or direction on preserving an amazing amount of historical archival material.

Have you googled this model to see how many are available and what price they are asking? That might give you a place to start, to see if there is any interest.

About the best results I have had with soft leather, was by using a roller knife and a straight edge. I found a utility knife and straight edge caused the leather to drag and stretch so my edge did not come out straight. I cut the soft leather (backing) oversize, adhered it to the firmer leather, then cut off the excess soft leather. As for strap cutters, I had no luck with a plough gauge (push) or a pull type.

I like the concept, and if you are dealing with lower quality leather, you will knock one out of the park with quality leather, because this one is pretty good.

I like the simplicity of your design, plus the stitching and colour looks great. Excellent job. I might have to get into something similar.

That is very nice work. I like the stitching around the studs and the colour is very subtle. Mind you, your dog does not seem to sure about it!

Try https://www.sewingwishlist.com/singer-parts-manuals-2.html They appear to have what you are looking for, only $7.95USD and immediate download after payment is made.

I did the same, except I had 2 on the go. One got a stain from an errant metal fragment, so I sent the one without. Still waiting for mine to arrive from @KAY9. (Not the fault of @KAY9, it's just Auspost doing what they do!)

That is a great looking job. Can we see the entire project please.

Is this machine a needle feed machine? It appears to advance the leather with the needle in the leather.

I would use dividers to mark the hole-line, punches of different size and shape (I think some people prefer slotted holes for some projects, some might prefer round holes) needles, of which 2 types come to mind, double pin and perma-lok, a pointed modelling tool or stylus to assist with lining up holes or poking thread thru or help to even up tension etc etc. I have only ever done a few simple laced jobs, so there might be more that the experts recommend.

Try @silverback on this site. I know he had some needles for Junker and Ruh machines.

I was not sure about the length, but I understand what you mean about the pic not showing exactly how they sit. On the 'D' ring versus rectangular loop question, I prefer the rectangular loops. I think they look more high class. ' D' rings will possibly cause the handle to fail eventually, because it has a wear point at the edge of the strap where the 'D' ring contacts ... if you understand what I mean?

I can understand that, I have the same problem. Four inch is better than 3 inch, but 3 inch is better than 2 inch, and so on. So ... do the best you can, with what you have. Also remember that its best to cover your leather so it does not get darkened by sunlight or introduced light. The colour change can be OK if its what you want over an entire hide or piece of leather, but a tan line across the middle can damage good leather.

I would stay away from using iron or steel (unless you can use stainless steel) in contact with leather. Iron can leave a stain. If you want to use iron, you could apply heat shrink plastic to protect your leather. Timber or plastic would be my preference. As a preference, I would also try to use a larger diameter, like a 4inch PVC pipe rather than a curtain rail or a broom handle. I would like to see pics of what you come up with. There is always a better idea.

A welt is a layer of leather between the front and back layers that stops the blade from contacting, and possibly, cutting the thread. You can see it in some sheaths because the sheaths look thicker than just a front and back. Some people use a welt right around the sheath, and some people only use a welt on the cutting edge side, some people taper the welt so the sheath is thinner towards the tip of the knife. I don't think there is a right or wrong way, just personal preference.

If you can't find anything specifically for leather, maybe you could use a pattern intended for cloth, with an allowance for the thickness of the leather.