Two ideas that come to mind,
1. make a flap that can be sewn to the back of the pack, and folds down over the open top.
2. Make a top piece the same diameter as the top and identical to the bottom side panel, but make it out of very soft and flexible leather so the top will cinch together with a drawstring.
I know a bloke who mixes neatsfoot oil and lanolin (proportions are a bit vague depending on the consistency required) and a dash of PURE GUM TURPENTINE, not the regular turpentine. Its has a pleasant smell, I think, from the pure gum turpentine.
I know this mob, as I worked in one of their stores for a couple years. They are each individually owned, so they can keep different items from different suppliers.
Hmmm I have never seen that design, but I am pretty sure Abbey England will not be any assistance, because I have bought different designs from them previously. If you do find them, please post up where you found them, thanx.
Possibly a belt with that sort of 'jewellery' would not attract any undue attention from our local LEO's because they are obviously unusable. On the other hand, as I have no firearms licence, a handful of spent cartridges would probably see the end of my career in the security industry.
I cannot fault it, other than your basketweave. With a better stamp, you will get more definition. Keep the good work.
For better stamps, look at @arbalet12 on the site, he has a post called Stamps for sell in the marketplace.
The main problem IMHO, with a 2nd strap is the need to fasten or unfasten, as needed, 2 straps. Not the best if the knife is needed in a hurry, or constantly being unsheathed and re-sheathed.
That is an excellent idea for a pattern on an item for a shooter! Unfortunately, here in Australia, we are not permitted to possess any cartridges (live or used), projectiles or associated items without having that calibre firearm on a valid firearms licence.
WOW! That thing is a beast!! It would kill a bloke if it fell out of a tree.
A few different ideas I have not seen before, and I like them all. The paracord, the 2&1/2" strips, the lines pattern, the orientation of the internal pockets ... its all good.
I could be wrong, but I am guessing @farns005 means he slicks the back of the leather to flatten down some of the rough fibres, the same as slicking/burnishing the edges.
Any hard straight edge should do the job, but some people use a glass slicker and gum tragacanth.
I can turn a computer on ... providing that works, I am good to go, solitaire, minesweeper, answer a few emails, check facebook for funny fishing memes ... and I am done!
Is it possible to use different software with these lasers?
I know a guy who has a 80W CO2 laser, which came with (or he matched to) a program called RD Works. This works OK for a lot of things, but he has tried a program called Lightburn, which works really well for some things that RD Works does not so well.
Depends on a bloke's (or shiela's) age. I am 55, and we learnt both at school but mostly metric IIRC, then focused on metric as a boilermaker. Some people favour one or the other depending on where their life took them after school ended.
I am also under the impression that a coat of pure neatsfoot oil (not the compound which includes silicon) assists with dispersion of the dye in between the fibres of the leather, which also helps with evening out any dark or light patches..
Also, having some water in there helps to pull the dye in AFAIK.