Rockoboy

Barry Humphries can also be Dame Edna Everidge or Sir Les Patterson. Each has that Aussie ocker persona, the same IMHO, as Paul Hogan and Barry McKenzie. Thank you for your recommendation, but its not really my thing. I much prefer my copy of British Anglers Manual 1836 edition or my Zane Grey 1st editions for classic literature.

Nope, still got nothing, even after following that link, I guess I am a philistine. As for my initial metaphor, that is likely something said by Paul Hogan, Sir Les Patterson or Barry McKenzie.

I am definitely not an expert, but I don't believe you would skive from both sides as pictured, or if 2 or more layers were placed together, I don't see any job where this profile would be the result. I will refrain from making any further comment on this issue, because it appears I know significantly less than many others.

I use 0.6mm thread for 3.0mm stitching chisels, and 1.0mm thread for heavy duty work on 4.0mm stitching chisels. I found the 3.0mm stitching with 1.0mm thread to be way to big as expected, and the 0.6mm thread at 4.0mm stitching to be ok. I usually overbuild everything, so I usually go with the heavy thread for strength on the 4.0mm stitching. Some thread I have, but not all, is waxed Ritza Tiger Thread. The cheap and nasty Chinese thread is all 1.0mm and I have some linen thread that came to me in a job-lot, but I am unsure of the thickness. I have used an embroidery thread called Gutterman Topstitch, which I believe is significantly thinner than 0.6mm. That was only used for an inlay, so no strength required. I am looking at buying some 5.0mm or 6.0mm stitching chisels, but not something I have a lot of need for, so the thought is still percolating at the moment. I am guessing I will be using 1.0mm thread for the longer stitches.

Help yourself ... who is Les Murray?

You are correct. My mistake. I guessed incorrectly, that you mistook skiving for bevelling. If your edges once assembled are 2.0mm, you would be able to punch straight thru with a stitching chisel. If the chisel is held at a consistent angle (usually 90 degrees to the work surface), and aligned with a stitching line on the top face of the work piece, both back and front stitches can only be straight.

I have 3 different stitching clamps. Two I made and one I bought. The small one I bought because I could not buy the timber and cam closure for what they were asking, and I figured it would work ok. The smallest clamp sits on the table in front of me and the work is at the correct height, but it will only hold medium to small work. At about $16AUD (around $10 -$12USD) it works great for its intended purpose. The middle size clamp sits on a small stool in front of me when I am seated and will hold medium to larger pieces adequately. The largest clamp sits on the floor and it will hold anything that I am working on, small, medium or huge. I think the moral of the story is ... as you develop skills, you may find a different size will benefit you, but always go with what suits you.

I would usually skive or bevel my edges after assembly, stitching and cutting or sanding to final size and shape.

There used to be a bloke on here from C.S. Osborne, who would be all over this like seagulls on a chip! I am not sure if he is still around.

For something like a wallet or small pouch, I would cut and glue the pieces before punching (with a stitching chisel) the holes. That way, you will have your holes all lined up. Just be aware of the angle of the stitching chisel. It must be consistently vertical. If the pieces are too thick for the stitching chisel, I assemble a couple of the layers with glue, punch those holes, then assemble the next layer(s) with double sided tape, punch thru to mark the last layers, remove those layers and punch from the front so the holes are all exactly aligned. One idea I have not tried yet, but is on my horizon, after assembling all of the layers, use a 1mm drill bit in a drill press to get an accurate hole thru multiple layers. Then I can use an awl to enlarge the holes as required.

Looks like you used some heavy thread for that stitch length, maybe try again with a lighter thread to see how that changes the appearance. Overall, I think it looks OK. Just remember to ALWAYS stitch with the exact same order of needle thru the leather, second needle thru at the same point of the hole and if the second needle comes thru and looped by the 1st thread correctly, you will have a knot in the centre of the hole, which assists with the look.

For a reference line, not a part of the design, I would use a set of dividers, or 2nd choice would be a scratch awl with a straight edge. All you will see is a faint scratch which will disappear in the stamping and/or carving.

This would have to be Fahrenheit, not Celsius ... obviously.

If you cannot find them local to you, and you wish to try further afield, try Birdsall Leather in Botany, New South Wales, Australia. I bought a heap of discontinued 2D & 3D stamps from them last year. Excellent service by phone or email, and fast delivery.

I am good to go anytime. @andymanak some good ideas there, but maybe getting a little bit involved ... IMHO. Maybe we can keep things simple and see how things progress.

I have a 201P in the beige paint job (assembled in Penrith, Australia). Its a standard unit, so whatever it came out with, but it works fine on a few layers of heavy canvas or plastic tarpaulin and 2 layers of seatbelt webbing.

Sorry Mate, I can't make that one. I will be working.

Excellent job. I don't see a door handle or lock. Is there something I am missing?

Never seen one, but surely a pattern would not be hard to make for some as basic as this. Probably the most important consideration would be the clearance inside the angle of the cover so the club can be extracted.

I have heard the easiest way to remove rivets, is to use a centre punch in the middle of the rivet on one side, then remove with long nose pliers. Is that right @Howard696?

I like this idea.

Hmmm ... How many frequent flyer points do I need for Perth to Rockhampton?

Looks better than some items in my 'finished but not good' box. You will improve with practice. As suggested by @bikermutt07 and others, start out with a small item, like a key tag, bracelet, drink coaster, book mark etc. Make 10 or 20 of the same item. Do all the cutting, that will give you heaps of practice, as you do all the edge finishing, dye-ing etc of all those pieces, you will learn things about each process. Save all the pieces, including those that 'don't come out so well', they can be used to try out a dye colour or a stamp pattern. After making that many of one item, you can transfer what you have learnt in each process, to your next project. Above all else, always have fun.

Very similar to my latest piece, but yours is so much nicer. Great job. Pics to come in a new thread after I sort out my dyeing.

Thanx Kel. I will take you up on that one day. I will even bring my own cheese board.