Rockoboy

I am thinking it might be an idea to work within a calender month. So, the parameters are set at whatever time, for work to commence the start of the following month. Your item to be posted, if possible, at or around the end of that month. That means, we set the ball rolling now, for work to commence on the 01st of May, then be posted out around the end of the month, or earlier. Around the 20th - 25th of May parameters are set for June etc etc Maybe change the size or shape of the piece each month or couple months. Do the 3" X 5" for a couple of goes, then change to 4" diameter circle, then 1" X 5" strap, vary thickness, maybe put up a design subject on some occasions - flowers, western theme, water theme, Sheridan etc etc. Any other ideas to keep things interesting?

Sounds like a great idea. It gives beginners and experts something to aim for. Once somebody gets their hands on your work, they can possibly see how to improve their own, or make suggestions how you can improve your work. I have carved a couple of small pieces, but I am in!

I could not find any kitchen re-modelers using stone in my area, so I ended up with some 20mm (3/4inch) granite floor tiles. I have seen some of these break when somebody is really hitting it hard, so I got some tile adhesive and stuck two together, I have given it a good workout, and its still "solid as a rock".

Is this a better option than finishing at a suitable point, then restarting back 1 or 2 holes to oversew the last couple stitches? Either way, you end up with double stitches for a stitch or 2.

Youngsters! Pffft! don't know how good they got it, they don't! It might be in another country across 160miles of ocean, but that's how far I swim to work every day, then walk for 12 hours, just so I can earn half a slice of mouldy bread with no butter! We are so poor, we don't even have countries that are 160 miles away! and I think Tandy have moved their Australian office to the moon!

Luxury! When I were a lad, we had to walk 300 miles in bare-feet through 6 feet of snow, carrying a horse on our back, just to see some leather ... *coff ... We don't even have a Tandy store in the entire country, so the nearest has got to be about 12,000 kms away.

As detailed in the post above, they are special order, so maybe not listed. Contact them directly might yield some answers.

Not sure of the actual metal its made from, but the coating is more likely to be chrome. I think it's too shiny to be zinc.

Pics would help more, if you can. Thank you.

I usually cut as close to finished size as I can, stitch, then sand to the required shape. Especially on a bag like you have made here. That way, you can get a nice even distance between edge and stitch-line and also a nice smooth edge ready for burnishing.

Not something I have ever seen in Australia, but I don't frequent the home brew shops, micro breweries etc. Thanx for the info Kel.

I think @Halitech has a great idea with the cut-out and use as a backing to raise the snake skin. I would sand the cut-out piece a little, so the design does not transmit thru the snakeskin, and also to ensure the snakeskin finishes level with the frame of the cut-out. I have done some small jobs like this after a stuff-up, just to see how it comes out. It's all a learning experience.

There are many good people on earth, and some who have passed. I wish more people would have the same sort of compassion.

That is a huge difference to a regular Aussie stubby, which is around 300 - 385ml. I think the overall weight of a full stubby in a holder, would be around 450 - 550grams, so maybe around 1 pound in weight. Of course, there are Darwin stubbies, which range from 1.25 - 2.25 litres (almost 77 US fl oz for the big one), but not widely seen.

That is entirely their own choice. IMHO, it only becomes a problem when/if they try to tell me, I MUST do things their way. Of course, that problem can be dealt with by ignoring their point of view.

I know a bloke running an 80 watt CO2 laser that (I think) came with proprietary software called RD Works. He has tried Lightburn, he reckons Lightburn is much easier to use and has some really good features.

Nice job overall and excellent artwork, but you need to watch your stitching distance to the edge. @Bawarrior did you sew first then sand/cut the edge to the stitch-line?

@jmkjmk2 PM sent.

Any of the chemical possibilities are less likely to cause you a problem, so yes, I would try one or all of them first.

HEYYY!!! I resemble that remark!

By heating the metal around the hole (with the threaded bolt/screw in it), you will be shrinking the hole. As the metal expands, it expands in every direction. You will thereby, be adding to the aforementioned tightening of the bolt/screw. There is a possibility you could crack the housing, if you applied enough heat. Alternatively, the movement of the metal around the thread, 'might' loosen the thread, but only if its held in by a build-up of corrosion or gunk.

Private sales of used tools are few and far between in Australia, but they do come along occasionally. I keep my ear to the ground, and I try to make sure I have cash available to me as much as possible, so I can snap up any decent offers that float past. I have bought a few dozen tools from a bloke in the UK, whose name escapes me. He bought out a tool retailer of 100's or 1000's of New Zealand made tools, which I think were Kelly Tool Co. I got all of these from eBay for around the $10 - $15AUD mark.

Nice looking carving. Is there an unwanted wrinkle in the top pic, between the wrist and the pinkie finger? Or does that sit correctly to the hand when you have your bow in hand?

My attempt at a wallet was not worth showing, but I do know you need to make your outer slightly longer than your inner. I think its about 6mm - 10mm (1/4" - 3/8") longer for the outer. This will usually not allow your finished wallet to lay flat when opened, but its not real far off.