Rockoboy

I think most of these binder/folio/book covers are made as a slip-on. So stitching on 3 sides and the 4th open side allows the plastic part to be inserted. This could be done as 1 piece cover with back, front and cover over the ring binders, or a 2 piece cover with separate back and front, with Velcro to keep the covers in place. If you wanted to fix a single thickness or leather to the cover, I would do what @heydox suggested with glue-ing the leather to keep it in place, then drilling holes about 3mm (1/8") in from the edge and stitching (or lacing). You could stitch a fancy pattern on the cover by placing a stencil and drilling holes where required. Its all up to your imagination.

I would use a couple lengths of 70mm X 35mm (3" X 1 1/2") structural pine (nice and cheap). Bolt it to the rear legs of the table so that it reaches from the floor up to the top of the back board, which would be pegboard (lightweight and ready to accept hooks for tools) if I had a choice. If the table is solid enough, there should not be any problem with shaking when hitting punches etc.

What a great idea. I can see where you would get better control and leverage.

WOW! You really know how to make friends and influence people.

Look at the Finishing Edges pinned thread at the top of this section of the forum. Basically, its a sanded, burnished finished edge to get it smooth and straight, with maybe a leather dressing or gloss finish over the top.

I have also found, by trial and error, that wiggling the chisel instead of a straight pull will bend the teeth and eventually snap one or more off.

Looks pretty darned close to perfect from what I see. You have done a great job.

You could use lace to braid or weave a decorative slide. Use a piece of pipe, broom handle, bundle of pencils or whatever comes to hand at the right diameter. Slide it off once its completed, then finish all over with your choice of leather dressing.

So many different thickness laptops, any pattern somebody used for a different laptop, might not fit your wife's laptop. The good news is, with the laptop in your hand, it would be so easy to design a sleeve to do this job.

Nice looking knife and sheath. Do you have any details of the knife components, steel used, handle timber etc?

I have no specific book in mind to assist with learning how to carve, but I would suggest practice practice and more practice. I have seen somewhere (and somebody gave me a paper copy), a practice sheet. It had a series of sweeping "S" cuts of different length and width, a series of "C" shapes of all different size and shape, ovals, circles, 'Nike swooshes' and more. I seem to remember the sheet said to do 15 or 20 of the same shape but gradually getting wider or longer, then switch to the other hand, so "S" shapes 1st, then reverse "S" shapes. The do some "C" shapes, and the reverse and just keep practicing so you build muscle-memory. If you Google swivel knife practice, you will see dozens of ideas.

It can also depend on what leather you are trying to stick together. Some leather is loaded with wax or oils and gluing it can be a HUGE PITA! I usually try to clamp joins if I am using PVA, or hammer it down/use a roller or press the join together in some way. As @garypl says, most of my jobs are small, so fumes are not an issue, but breathing fumes is not good for you, so be aware of what you are doing. If there is something you trying to accomplish, that is not working for you, pics will almost always be helpful for people offering assistance.

Hmmmm ... I have not had this happen. I figured it was because the dye fully dried into the cardboard and I have never had any transfer. I will definitely be more careful in the future, because I bet it will a vitally important piece where I 1st have it happen!

I have, in the past, and will continue in the future to use cardboard. After staining or applying a finish, the object is hung up or placed to dry. The cardboard is placed out of the way, so it can dry, then be used again at another time. Of course, it can be thrown away if it becomes to badly affected by moisture etc. On the small amount of dyeing and finishing I have done, I have had no problems.

WOW! Awesome looking piece already, even without the stamping, padding and final wet moulding. I am waiting for the next instalment of this build.

It looks to me, like its a specific design made by somebody for their own purpose. Not exactly a widely available idea. I would start by laying out the items I wanted to carry. Allow some space for wet-forming, then drawing a stitch-line between each item and around the outer edge. Depending on how you wanted to stow or carry the case, you could place 'D' rings at the top corners so it could be lashed to a pack or attached to a belt or hung on the back of a door/tree/tent pole etc. So many options, its all up to your imagination.

I am not sure what I am looking at ... is it a larger pouch with smaller detachable pouches? Can you make out the logo on the top flap? Maybe googling their name or even googling this pic would give you some ideas. Have you checked out Al Stohlman's books on cases, bags and boxes?

I could be wrong, but I believe burning chrome tan leather releases cyanide gas.

Looks pretty good to me also. The only thing that irks my OCD, is the rivets placement on the back. Maybe an 'X' shaped reinforcing piece would have been better. Having said that, I have misaligned rivets and stitching all over the place!

I have a couple of spray guns, one is a mini air brush, but I have never used either. If you research the question, try the section for Dyes, Antiques, Stains, Glues, Waxes, Finishes and Conditioners, because I am sure I have seen comments on the best spray equipment.

You are an amazingly talented worker who does first class work, so you do not have to be fast. I saw a sign recently that said "Fast, Cheap, Good. Choose any 2". And your use of the word 'molding' is correct, I believe this spelling is the USA spelling, (Aussie and English spelling is 'moulding' AFAIK.)

I will take some pics and make some measurements and get back to you. I can see a couple examples where a smaller cup would be a definite advantage.

What dimension or details do you need to produce a cap for a specific machine? Mine is a PROTEK TY8B, which is clone of a 227r cylinder arm.

@Nikos if you include your approximate area or even just your country of residence, people may be able assist you further. It's no help to you if somebody recommends a place to visit for more information, if that place is nowhere near you.

Hello Sergey, What is the machine I need to get if I wish to use your belt rollers? Can the Embossing Rollers also be used on the same machine?