Rockoboy

I am betting good money, @immiketoo will have an opinion on this. I don't think there's much to do with carving, he has not thought about, tried and/or perfected!

Have you consider rubber cement as used for patching car tyres? I think that dries quite flexible and works like contact cement. You can apply to one surface then immediately position the other surface, OR you can apply to both surfaces and allow it to tack-off before assembling the components. I think either method is much improved by clamping or weigh applied to increase the adhesion.

Other than the curved line around the horses head, I see very little wrong with what you have done. Maybe it shows up more, in real life, or maybe you are your own worst critic. Great job in my book.

I am guessing you have tried some of the bigger sewing machine shops and/or repairers. What about Darren Brosowski at Able Sewing?

I have found laser cutting to be a little difficult due to the scorching and blackening of the edge, also the smoke damage on the surface of the item is not so good. Maybe better attention to a correctly focused laser would help. If I had my 'druthers', I would try using a cricut, if I had a heap of letters to do on an ongoing basis. If the call was for occasional supply, I wonder if hammer-dies or clicker dies might be more economical?

I just Googled die cut leather letters and there were a few etsy pages and eBay pages. They are out there, it's just a matter of finding them..

www.leffler.com.au

I always glue right to the edge, but I try to make sure there's no globs of glue that will squeeze out. Squeeze-out can be removed by cutting away with a knife or scissors or by rubbing with dry canvas, but not having squeeze-out is best IMHO. Depending on the colour of the edge, if the glue line is visible, I colour it with a Sharpie.

Try @silverback for needles for Junker and Ruh.

What about printing this stand in 3 components that clip together? There's your problem "engineered out".

Definitely worth fixing IMHO. Especially if you don't have a lot of money in it. You might be able to find that piece somewhere to purchase, and get it posted. It does not look overly heavy, so postage should be reasonable. Worst case scenario, take both bits to a foundry and have them cast a new piece, then an engineering workshop to machine the surfaces that need to be close to tolerance.

While they are good products from Selleys, I use a Parfix product which is virtually identical, I think its called Gel Fix, but about half the price. 500ml can for ~$13.00 at Bunnings.

I guess the 'no glue' option can work sometimes. The main consideration IMHO, would be 'Don't pull the stitching too tight', because tight stitching can open up the edge. Also consider how firm the leather is, and maybe the use of the finished article.

PM sent

I have bought and sold articles on Facebook in the marketplace section. There are some shysters on there, so you need to keep your wits about you. Good luck with your endeavours.

If this is with 'reduced details', I am truly amazed. In full definition, I bet I could see flea bites!

I totally agree with all that has so far been written in this thread. I have been on this website for a year or 2 now, and actively doing leatherwork for about the same time. Whilst I have achieved no masterclass in anything, I know what I like, and I can see some things that appeal, or lack appeal, to me. Some things I have learnt by talking with and listening to knowledgeable people, or reading or watching videos, and some things I have discovered for myself. If somebody makes a suggestion, I do not necessarily discount their ideas based on their work. Maybe they have a good idea, but lack the dexterity to make the concept a work of art. At the end of the day, anything I suggest to somebody, can be ignored or absorbed, I do not care either way. If I have assisted somebody with a snippet of information, that is good. If they believe my advice is rubbish, so be it. Move on, and find another solution. As for advice from others, I always listen in the 1st instance. The wisest man can gain insight from the youngest child. It can sometimes become apparent, that the "font of all knowledge" is a "wet dishcloth with no knowledge!"

I have some bent needles, but I am not sure if they are saddlers needles (as I would prefer for this job). Alternatively, get some cheap needles and break them off around an inch long. Cheap needles for snapping off like this, could be cheap embroidery or sharp point needles. I have some broken needles for this exact job.

Personally, I think the thickness of your leather is your biggest problem. Its going to be very difficult to get a tight seam with that weight leather. All my baseball stitch attempts (both of them) have been on lighter weight and softer leathers. Also the slanted stitch-line dos not assist you with aligning the edges. This might need its own thread rather hijacking another thread, possibly?

I know I REALLY want to see it, and no worries about 'unseeing it', 'cos I definitely need a little help heaps of assistance with stuff like this!

I have not seen them in the last couple years, plus I have no idea how to place a link here. I think I Googled vise mounted bender ... or something similar. There were a few different posts of people making them. I tried to copy n paste the URL of the video, but all I could do, was put in the 'Reason for edit'.

On your drawing, the stitch lines are horizontal. I am fairly sure what @Tugadude suggests, is having the stitch-lines running vertical along the edge of the vertical strap. I would stitch 2(two) lines, each stitch-line outside of the Chicago screws.

Maybe its a very slow leak caused by the compression of the glue between the layers. Something I have never seen. For future reference, maybe apply the glue 1/8 - 1/4 inch away from the edge to allow for sanding and or glue leakage.

If you want to do any carving, stamping or wet-forming, AFAIK, you must have veg-tan, unless you want to open a whole new can of worms. You can get some results with heated stamps ... so I have heard. I think what you might need, if you want pre-dyed leather is called drum dyed leather. As far as I am aware ( hopefully somebody who knows for sure will step up soon), drum dyed leather is veg-tan but dyed in the factory.

Sounds like a bit of an over-reaction for what could be a very easily solved problem. one of the 1st things I would suggest, pics, pics and maybe a video. There are folks on this site who could get a straight stitch off of a paperclip and an electric toothbrush! I am looking at you @Uwe, @Constabulary, @wiz ... Give it time to happen, @charlesfalzon.