Rockoboy

That has to be the best news I have had all day. Its the old salts more accomplished and experienced people, that really make Leatherworker.net what it is. I hope you can be a part of, and contribute to, Leatherworker.net for many years to come

I have several custom stamps and a few dozen production stamps form Sergey Neskromniy, also @arbalet12 on leatherworker.net. Great price, good communication to get what you want, only downside for me is the distance and time to deliver, but that's not his fault. I will buy more from him when I need them.

Good looking job on both presses. I have a similar press that I want to set up for snaps. I wish I had access to your mates machine shop!

No harm, no foul. Play on. P.S. I hope @RockyAussie perceives no harm.

Thank you for saying that, but I believe you have me confused with @RockyAussie. His work is ALL immaculate, some of mine is fit for purpose, and some of mine will never see the light of day.

Yes, that would be difficult. My apologies for missing that point.

Pyrography on vegtan can be ok, AFAIK, but I am led to believe burning chrome tan leather releases cyanide gas. As for the Eco-friendly chemicals and coatings from Tandy (or any other place), I do not believe they will be up to the task for deglazing your pre-dyed leather. Eco-friendly dyes are ok for some people and some people hate them. Disclaimer: I do not have much experience in this field, but I have messed about with it a little, plus I have read some things here.

Make it a sleeveless jacket.

If its not vegtan, it might be chrome tan or it might be a combination chrome/veg tan. A lot of chrome tan has a blue tinge in the centre of the leather. If you have chrome tan, I think you might have a problem with getting a decent colour, unless you like black. You could try to deglaze it with some lacquer thinners, bearing in mind that the thinners will dry out the leather* some, so a coat of pure neatsfoot oil (not the compound or light option) before or after dye would be a good idea. *Also dry out your skin, so gloves are highly recommended, and a mask to keep the fumes out of your lungs. Whichever way you decide to go, try it out on a sample first.

I made a sheath using this method. I found it did not work out very well because it bellied out both, the front and the back of the sheath, rather than leaving the sheath flat-backed to sit against the wearers body. Any sheaths I make in the future, I will be wet forming the front of the sheath around the 'plastic covered knife' before assembly. This will of course necessitate the front of the sheath being made oversize, then cut and sanded to match the back of the sheath after assembly.

Not real sure ... what about dampening them a bit, retwisting fixing them in position until they dry?

On unsealed vegtan, a creased line will be fine IMHO. Just make sure your leather is cased adequately, so dampen the leather then the moisture is allowed to permeate the leather. A groover would also work, but its more of a permanent mark because it actually removes material to make the groove. I think creasing is more 'in tune' with what you have done so far.

None of the fish skin I have, from Mermaid Leather in Esperance W.A. have scales attached. From what I have read, there is no truly effective method to retain all of the scales, so removing them all is considered better than have a patchy looking finish.

Welcome to the forum. You have some very nice pieces there. I cannot really see your edges, so its a bit difficult what to recommend to you. One thing I will say, is "I use a edge beveller before I burnish an edge", if that helps. From the look of what you have already done, (if you are not already aware) I would suggest you should focus on always using vegtan leather.

OK. I have seen that. Got some coasters cut out to make some marks on. I will get into them in the next week and send out the best one, when I get a name and address sometime after 10th-June-2019.

Sorry, I am not sure what you are trying to achieve. Is this some type of buckle or strap attachment? A pic can be worth a 1000 words.

You have no formal training? Then you have an enormous amount of ability!

So, are we still waiting for final numbers to begin, or have we already commenced our 1st piece?

If the score lines are going to be parallel to the edge of the strap, use an edge groover, getting progressively wider for each line. If they are not going to be parallel to the edge, use a straight edge to mark the 1st line, then set out the distance between the lines with dividers and use the straight edge to connect the marks. Maybe practice on some scrap to make sure you get the effect you are aiming for.

So you are making a bag to match 'each dress your wife owns'? How many bags in how many different styles for each dress? Good luck with that.

Great job there @Danne. My medium size homemade and small store bought clamps are the same as yours. Its a fairly universal design.

You would probably be better to post them to me ... sorry, I mean post in the "For Sale" section.

The wet and dry hair, the eyes, the water ... it's all very realistic.

Your stitching takes a bit of a tumble for an inch or so down near the toe, but overall that looks pretty good to me.

If its a size problem, email the pics to yourself, then attach them to a post. Apparently, emailing sets the size to a decent size. Alternatively, resize them with an app or software. Try for 800 X 600, I believe that's supposed to be a good size pic, but not too big to breach upload limits.