Rockoboy

I was given a recipe by a mate. I am sure he will not mind me sharing it. Equal quantities of beeswax and lanolin, a splash of pure gum turpentine. melt and combine together. Let it set, it comes out a bit greasy, but not too much, has a pleasant smell (to me anyway) because of the PGT.

You could slick it down with gum tragacanth. Smear on a thin coat like you were smearing butter on bread to make a sandwich. Any straight edge will do. I did a test piece on some veg tan with a piece of smooth timber.

I do not believe there are many glue's that will stand up to the heat from a hot cast iron pan, because heat is usually used as a release for adhesives. In Australia, we have Selleys window and glass silicone which is used for stove oven door glass windows. This silicone is rated to 915 degrees C. I imagine there would be similar brands with identical silicone adhesives in the USA. Maybe Dow or Sika, (other big name brands we have here that you might have).

No, but if you Google him on LW.net, I am sure there will be a link in his profile, or send him a message through LW.net.

Sorry to hear you're not doing so well. Absolutely stunning finish on those items. I bet you have inspired many people, because your qualities and ability shines through.

I use Sergey Neskromniy stamps for my makers marks, I have small, medium and large, any custom stamps and his production stamps are also pretty good and his prices are very reasonable. He has an etsy shop and he is on Leatherworker.net as @arbelet12.

WOW! All that I can see makes my efforts look like I was a rusty razor blade and a broken fence paling. Excellent work. I hope we can see more. She is going to be a master before the age of 25, let alone 40 or 60 or older!

I reckon that skiving knife will do a pretty good job. Because the putty knife needs to be flexible, they are usually made from spring steel, so they have some carbon in the steel and can sharpen up a decent edge. I have sharpened a 4" putty knife as a French scraper. It holds a decent edge, and I used it on timber.

I used to dip my POC wooden arrows that way. It only took a minute to figure out how much coating to pour in the vertical pipe, then dip each arrow and hang them up to dry with a pin in one end. So much better than a brush, and spraying was not a possibility for me at that time.

WOW! Just WOW! That is a great job. Lion, mountains and clouds are all great. Just one thought on the mountains ... maybe the mountains which are further away (the mountains closest to the mountain lion) should have less detail. As they are, the closer mountains and the further away mountains all have the same, whereas in reality the further away something is, less detail can be easily seen. Disclaimer: I am not an artist's bootlace. Not much good at carving either, just an observation.

Not so difficult. I have dipped long articles by using a vertical PVC pipe. All you need to be aware of is, the volume of the pipe and the amount of dye in the pipe, and how full the pipe will be when you add the object being dyed. One idea I have never used, but considered, is after gluing end caps on to the pipe cut the piece of pipe along its length, making a long narrow trough. Use gloves to protect hands and fingers and a floor cover sheet to catch the drips, hang your object to dry.

Hi there, Would you consider selling just the L'Indespensible knife, and posting to Australia please? If you would, can you tell me what price you are asking including delivery.

I don't believe this is possible with a double cap rivet. The cap of the rivet and the stem of the rivet on the male side are 2 separate pieces. I had to destroy some rivets to disassemble an item recently, and this is what I found.

That would depend on how rough the concrete is. Any roughness or texture will transmit through the leather and might affect the end result. I use an edge-grain timber cutting board for a surface to punch holes on. If I don't have access to my cutting board, I use the side grain of a piece of soft pine to protect my punches. When I am cutting, I use kitchen cutting boards made from poly-something or a cutting mat. Maybe cutting will not be an issue for your participants, as knife-work might be done by yourself for their safety.

When I am making a hole with an awl, I use a cork sanding block, about 3" X 2" X 1 1/2" as a stop behind the leather being pierced. So much better than using a finger ... who amongst us has not done this with a finger?

I have 3 different size logo stamps and a custom stamp, plus a dozen or so of his standard stamps, made by @arbalet12 Sergey Neskromniy. Price is really great, work is excellent ( I am not a machinist, so not an expert in judging quality of this work) but it far exceeded my expectations, delivery was not quick but that's not his fault. I highly recommend his work and I will buy from him again.

I have sent the OP a PM, so things are being discussed.

Do you mean a copper peening rivet as pictured below? 1/8" is 3.18mm, which (without measuring) sounds like a No. 8 ... maybe. I have never heard of any smaller than that, but they might be easily available. If you can source some copper washers, you could make some out of copper wire.

I don't think this is possible. The stem has to be tubular, as that is how the rivet is set. If you place your work on a hard, smooth and flat surface, when you set the double cap rivet, the end result will be a flat cap on the bottom side. Turn your work over and gently tap the other side of the double cap rivet on the hard surface and then you have a flat head double cap rivet.

Me too. I have re-read the original post, but I cannot see any mention of the 'Basic Set'.

You will need some pieces of granite, marble or similar to use as a stamping surface, try some kitchen installers for sink cutouts, thicker is better IMHO.

I like the coloured wall better, and I think the cow looked better before the dye was applied. Its still a really well done piece. I hope to do as well one day.

I like that.

Nope. Never have. I don't know any person who uses a money clip of any type.

All I can think of would be the size of the shaft. Measure that with vernier calipers and get the blade that is identical. As for the profile, size, shape etc of the blade ... that's entirely up to you and the job, effect etc you want to achieve. IMHO, other than changing to a different blade for a different job, effect etc, replacing a blade would only need to be done when the blade becomes damaged or so worn that re-profiling and/or sharpening is not possible, which might be never. Maybe somebody who actually knows what they are talking about will be along soon.