Michiel

The original question keeps me wondering…. i hope someone finds an real source with the answer i looked in the old sewing machine books i have but nobody thought it necessary to explain apparently it was obvious Why they were made

Is it possible that its just the photo which is Mirrored (by accident)?

Hi Nick, i do have the same machine (and never found a service manual But timing this machine is like other sewing machines: you do not need to know an needle bar height you can do it by turning the wheel to raise the needle bar ca 2 mm from the most lower position than adjust the hook so that the hook meets the needle than adjust the needle bar height so that the hook point is in the middle of the scarf (the space above the needle hole) because it is an zig zag machine you need to pay a little extra attention because the hook is early on the left side of the zig zag and late on the right side You can time it with the zig zag off and the needle in the middle and after wards check with zig zag on the widest setting to see if it is timed well for both sides but what i sometimes do is time it on the left position in a way that the scarf is just above the needle hole hope this helps kind regards michiel

It is an interesting question (i think in that days it was so obvious for the craftsman that nobody bothered to mention it) But if it was for the convenience of left handed workers i would think they would also make other sewing machines leftsided (but since the forced people to write right handed that times i do not think they would do so much effort to construct special versions of a sewing machine for them) Since the big brands do not sell them anymore (as far as i know) i think it has to do with the fact these machines mostly had no upper and needle feed: This is my experience: when i make denim trousers for my self i try to sew the left and right side the same way because the transport with only feed dogs is not optimal. i usualy start with the most critical part (the crotch for example or the upper part) so if the feeding of the two parts is not even you will not notice it too much when sewing the other side i turn the cloth so i still can start sewing from the same point on a flatbed with a mostly flat design that works fine. With a 3D object (and two parts which have not the same form) i am glad two have needle and upper feed so i can start sewing without losing length on the upper part … si i think its possible they made left and right versions because when making leather 3D objects it mattered where the started sewing … but these are just my two cents it would be interesting to have a left and right version of the same machine and do some trials (with left and right handed persons making leather trousers, jackets etc.)

The bobin should not spin when the motor is engaged its only turning when the tread is pulled out by the sewing proces

Thats what i also think: if you make the left and right shoe on the same machine the wont look the same because you sew them the otherway around

One spring fits into the other the one outside is 220 00 0340 and measures 17 mm inside and 19 mm outside 220 00 4840 measures 13,8 and 16,4 mm (there are no part numbers on the springs of course but this is what the springs in my 220 mesure)

I guess its too new for constabulary

Try this one (or go to ebaykleinanzeigen and use the search button) Gerade bei #eBayKleinanzeigen gefunden. Wie findest du das? https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/industrie-naehmaschine-adler/2054171307-240-3038?utm_source=copyToPasteboard&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_medium=social&utm_content=app_ios

I think i can check my adler 220 next Wednesday

Its not my machine but may be someone is intersted its an new adler 30-10 still in its original package i think 500 euros is a bargain Gerade bei #eBayKleinanzeigen gefunden. Wie findest du das? https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/industrie-naehmaschine-adler/2054171307-240-3038?utm_source=copyToPasteboard&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_medium=social&utm_content=app_ios

I can imagine when i started I bought an old (not very expensive) sewing machine to see if i could fix it before trying it on more expensive machines

Timing a sewing machine is no magic. i would suggest you read about it on internet and / or watch videos about it (no matter what kind of sewing machine, just to understand whats going on) than dowload a service manual for your machine and follow (all) the steps in it first time it can take some time to figure out where the screws are located but after a few times you even do not need an manual to time an unknown machine if you cannot find your service manual on internet you can sent me a dm kind regards, michiel

No timing marks just rotate shafts till the timing is right.

I have the service manual but only in german if you sent me an dm i will mail it to you nb: to replace the timing belt you do not need to take the machine apart (i changed the timingbelt of my adler 169 in about 1 hour) It is the same procedure as the adler 167 , you will find it on this forum (google adler timing belt replacement)

I have got a some Adler spare parts frome someone who got them a from a “adler repair guy”. most parts i can recognise but there is one thing what looks more like a special tool i has no part number or brand and it is even possible it is not sewing machine relateted but anyway: is there some one who knows what it is? (looks like you can use it to remove an bearing but i can not see were to use it) any thoughts? Regards, michiel (Scale is cm)

There is a adler 69 model with only needle feed (no moving inner foot) If his machine has triple feeed the shown feet will work indeed

The feet for adler 69 are the same as for adler 267 but you need a machine with triple feed for this feet. You said youre machine has a “not vibrating arm” if you have the needle feed variant, this feet will not work.

If you remove the inner feet, the outer feet wil stop oscilating. But i think you need other feed dogs and needle plate to get get it working and figure out to get the roller on the right spot….. its easier to get another machine i guess but if you like to tinker, it could be a project

In the service manual there is always an order in which you should do all the adjustments (and sometimes the advise doing an previous adjusment again) i think it is best to check all the adjustments in the right order before doing the adjustment which is obvious neccesary (but i have to admit i am usualy not very concerned about being revers and forward exact the same since i hardly notice small differences if i just make two or three stirches back and forward)

What i do is rotating the exentric just a litle bit, fix it, and than rotate the handwheel to check the feed (and repeat that a few times) most of the times i put the needle at the hook point ( the position you use on timing the hook - needle) but i think it depends on the model / make of the machine

This is my diy winder

And the parts manual https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Parts_Books_Adler/68.pdf

Service manual (but only in german) https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/commons/download/download-text-attachments/Vintage_Manuals_Adler/Manual_Adler_68.pdf your machine is from page 44 - 47