DonInReno

I've done a little canvas work with an artisan 3200 (441 clone with 12" arm) and 138 and 207 thread and it works just fine, but the types of presser feet for these machines that aren't smooth are not as numerous as those for an upholstery machine, although there are plenty of good designs that can be altered if you don't mind tinkering a bit. Even with feet and feed dog very close to your favorite designs these are big machines that aren't quite as user friendly or fast as an upholstery machine. It's like driving a two ton truck around town - you can do it, but most people wouldn't unless the extra capacity is required. Having said that, I think there's never a bad reason to get another machine that fills a gap so it's hard to go wrong with your choices!

If you're a car guy it's a no brainier that you should get a used machine - find the least expensive walking foot singer 111w155, 211w155, Juki 562/3, etc you can find and go through it, paint and when you're done you'll be able to get more than your money out of it. If you enjoy sewing it's a machine you won't outgrow, and it will outlive you. Delivered to your door I've seen fixers for $250 every few months - same for craigslist, fb marketplace.

That's awesome - you'll always have a use for that machine!

After reading too much last night about different variants I’m convinced the silver one isn’t a k6 anyway - it appears to be a non-walking foot version - something like a k10...and everyone is right about getting a whole machine to start with - you guys helped saved me $$

On my wish list is a singer 132k6 - it's classic old school shape alway sparks memories of childhood. One great deal was missed because of bad timing/schedule conflicts and almost a year has passed since with nothing. I can get a mostly stripped head for $150 but I don't know 100% for sure it's a 132k6 or something similar but different. A second head has more parts for $150 more and still has the label. Knowing a partial machine is like a hole in the sewing table that sucks money in, there is no doubt this is not saving any money in the long term, but it gets the project started. My thought was to refinish the stripped head and when another complete head comes along moving all the bits over. In side profile the unmarked machine looks correct, but what do you think? I'd feel silly doing a full repaint on the wrong model of head!

Um...Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't the only differences between the fabric and leather models smooth vs grooved walking feet and feed dog/needle plate?

Hi - it can be confusing with all the claims of people happily sewing all sorts of things with older domestic machines, but it's simply not the machine you need. At the very least you want a commercial machine so it can handle larger thread. If the budget will only allow a simple drop feed machine like a 31-15, some obscure brother/consew/rebranded chandler, or Juki ddl-555 for under $100 than so beit - it gets your feet wet and you will get so frustrated sewing over thick seams you'll appreciate a needle feed (drop feed and needle feed) or best yet a triple feed (drop, needle, and walking foot). We don't have a huge amount of old sewing equipment, but between northern California and Reno there have been no less than 6 walking foot upholstery flat bed machines advertised for under $125 in the past year. That's a much better piece of equipment to start with. Heck, on the 4th of July there was a nice looking 211w155 set up with table/motor for free on FaceBook Marketplace. If you don't have the time to tract down a super deal, it's easy to get a basic walking foot for $350ish. Having said that, any machine is a great place to start if it's all new to you! In college I made a lot of backpacking gear with nothing more than a singer featherweight and 69 weight nylon thread. Right now there is a Singer 31-20 about an hour from me for $50 ... if I knew someone getting into sewing I'd have them pick it up.

If you need to loosen that set screw (or any tight screw) I'll first use a screwdriver bit that fits and give it a hammer smack - often times that's all it takes to get a stiff screw to let loose. If that doesn't work I'll heat it with a torch just until a little water starts to boil off and no more. 200 degrees is hot enough to loosen any glue or thread locker if present, and expand the parts just a tiny amount without damaging anything. If that doesn't work I'll cool it with canned air turned upside down to get the really cool liquid (usually r134 refrigerant), reheat with the torch and then smack the screw with a driver bit and hammer. That usually takes care of it. If the screw strips out you drill it out with a drill bit just smaller than the threads - it takes all the pressure off the threads and an easy out or triangle file jammed into the hole turns it out easily.

If you are somewhat handy I'd suggest putting together a reducer from off the shelf pulleys for the least cost solution: 10" pulley $17, 1-3/4" pulley $7, 5/8" keyed shafting $12, pillow block bearing $10, two new belts $10. Otherwise a factory built reducer would be the next least cost. Napa auto parts and other auto part stores stock 3L light duty belts - a 38" belt would simply be # 3L380 but an auto parts place will charge you $12 or so. An eBay search will show 3L belts for as little as $2 ea.

That Consew base machine was even relabeled as a singer - just ran across this on eBay.

I need another flat bed like a hole in the head, but what were you hoping to get out of it?

Let's see...Singer 111w15something old factory head with normal hard factory wear and possibility of being completely worn out...needs parts/dirty/not sewing...on the low end these go for about $150US somewhat regularly (add $100 for shipping) and in the cleaned up condition able to stitch they go for about $300-$400US plus shipping from individuals who may or may not know how to pack/ship properly so total price for many people is closer to $400-$500US. From a reputable dealer who has tuned and replaced small parts (and has a higher probability of proper packing/shipping) the price can be at least a couple hundred more. edit: The real value depends on it's condition under the surface rust - if it's exceptionally tight with good quality hook and tension assembly with very little thread grooving it's worth two or three times what a worn out machine is - there's no way to tell without being there in person. It might be so worn out it's not worth anything.

Very nice!

I really like scotch brite pads, as do most of us (especially the super fine ones designed for Dremel tools), but wow do they round over, ripple the surface and just generally ruin a lot of parts if not used sparingly and in the right situation. A local machine shop has a display of parts ruined by careless scotch brite disk use... Lol

Even if it's something most us us won't ever do, it's fun seeing another bit of backstory to the process. He did go out of his way to demonstraight gluing the pulley blank to an arbor, which seemed like a stretch, but it was a well done interesting video.

Honestly if you really want a walking foot - like a singer 153w103 - wait and you'll find one. I almost bought 10 of those for $80 each - in varying degrees of disrepair - or the seiko version in very good/excellent condition came up for $300....great deals are out there. Heck if your 223 is a great deal buy it as an investment - tune it up, get the newness of a cylinder machine out of your system, and use it until you can upgrade with another great deal.

Lol - yep, each time a pic of the machine pops up I'll think Zoltar now!

Sure if the price is right - a few weeks tinkering with it and you'll know how it fits your needs and what you'll want to change. Just make sure to not overpay and if it just doesn't work out it can be sold for what you have in it. That model is fairly common and normal wear parts are reasonable. Having said that, keep in mind it's a needle feed and not a walking foot - maybe not an issue if what you're sewing feeds ok, but don't expect it to feed like a triple feed machine. Of course a triple feed walking foot machine is at least another $150. edit: I'm not an expert in what you're sewing so I'd listen to those in the know as to if a needle feed is ok or not.

Nice! Many colors we think should be more muted were actually much brighter when new - we're just conditioned to seeing old faded examples

its hard to say without looking at it closely. Well used but no chance to test I'd be hesitant to pay more than $250. Well used and sews great $400 would be tops for me. Looks new $500.

That's the same issue - the older the thread gets the worse the problem will be. The bonding waxes all eventually dry out and it really doesn't matter if it's polyester or nylon - if you can find someone with a spool rewinder it takes care of the problem as the thread is transfered to a different spool.

One advantage to larger pulleys, given identical reduction, is better traction on the belt - so belt tension isn't as critical.

A quick search should turn up a thread that's full of all sorts of singer manuals.

Uwe, I have no real interest in this machine yet once again it's impossible to look away with such a great description, great visuals, and an actual picture of your machine. Very nice.

Can you take a video or close up pics of the needle and hook as the hook pics up thread? The gap between needle and hook should be as close to nothing, zero, zilch as possible.