kgg

All I can offer is that if a cylinder bed machine is what you will do the majority of your work on then invest in a flat-bed conversion top to convert the machine into a flat bed when needed for the other items. If you have dealers close by bring a sample of your work / material and see how they compare. kgg

Nice set-up, I think you will find the swing away binder a useful attachment. I use a 1 3/4" plain edge binder with a swing away attachment similar to the one in the photo on my flat bed, it works great. What I found was that it really didn't like double fold binding tape. Since I do like the clean edge look of double fold binding tape what I done was slightly bend open the entrance and exist slots to accept the thicker binding tape. With making that slight tweet there was no noticeable effect on using plain edge binding tape after. kgg

Did you make a decision between which of the two machines would be your best choice? kgg

There were sewing machines from Landis International out of Quebec that were labelled "Supreme". There has been a couple advertised on Kijiji for about $1000 being modelled 335's. kgg

What I liked most was the DIY sewing guide which I am going to make for my machine as I think it will provide additional help when sewing long wide items that start out dangling over the edge of the table. kgg

Out of curiosity what are you going to be using the machine mostly for? kgg

Assuming both machines are in equally good shape the Pfaff is going to cost more (clutch motor, installation time and future servo motor). Unless you are use too clutch motors remember they can be most unforgiving when it comes to speed control. There is nothing worst then having a momentary concentration lapse or a foot twitch and having your work ruined. For that reason alone I would probably consider the Alder over the Pfaff and besides it is ready to sew. Whether either machine is the right machine is going to depend on budget (I think the price is a little high for either) and what you are mostly going to be using it for (upholstery or holsters and availability / cost of what attachments you may need). I will leave the sewing capabilities of the machines to more experienced people. kgg

I would first remove the needle, bobbin and bobbin case then cycle the machine by hand and see if the noise is still there. If there is no noise replace the needle with a new one and a different bobbin. If there is a noise I would as brmax suggested, remove the drive belt and tilt the machine back. I would look and feel around for something amiss (thread, loss screw, etc ) as you turn the wheel. If the noise returns when you replace the needle, bobbin and bobbin case then maybe the hook timing is slightly off if the bobbin case is in good shape. If you figure it is a timing problem do a google search for Consew 206rb-1 manual pdf. It will outline how to re adjust the hook timing. kgg

I know this maybe of no real help but I read your nameplate as a 335 model H3 and being of subclass 044 /003. kgg

The bonded v69 nylon thread is going to be stronger. I would try V69 bonded nylon and see if you like the how it works with a # 18 needle. Also if you use a #18 size needle it will take v92 thread, stronger again. kgg

I think since the machine is England it looks like some form of a Necchi 902-155. kgg

Hi Raksha, The info I have to offer is your machine was built in 1952 and seems to be in fairly good shape. To determine what parts are missing I would suggest you down load the instruction manual file for the 99k ( www.singerco.com/uploads/download/451_99.pdf ). The class 99 came in three versions of operation, electric motor, hand crank and treadle and the only real difference I can think of between the 99 and 99k is one you had to fool around with trying to get the bobbin out and the other had a push ejector. Later versions had reverse with an easier way of setting your stitch length rather the tightening or loosing the silver knob above the Singer name plate. From the pictures you seem to be missing the needle, presser foot and the pin post for holding the thread on top of the machine. Once you review the instruction manual you will know what parts are missing and probably be able get them at you local sewing repair shop. Once you get it sewing I would convert this machine to electric or at least treadle that way you can use both hands to guide your work. I think it will do fine for sewing soft goat leather but if you like working with leather or other fabrics you will soon move up to some form of walking foot machine. Also you are going to be normally limited to V69 thread or smaller but I have on occasion pushed V92 through without any problems. kgg

That is excellent work on the table top rebuild, SARK9. I replace my needle either after 8 hours of use, most times it is more often depending what and how thick a material it is piercing. kgg

Hi Brian, Very nice work. kgg

Hi AkMike45, The Rex you have seems to be very close to the Reliable Barracuda and or the Techsew 611 it uses a type 135x17 needle and for V69 thread size 18 needle. I would first replace the needle as Matt said. Another thing to check is the tension of the bobbin thread also check to see if the bobbin is releasing the thread in the right direction. It is easy enough to place the bobbin in backwards if you are in a rush, I have done it myself. I would also do a youtube video search for the Reliable Barracuda (threading, not stitching, etc.) and start as if you just took it out of the box. kgg

Hi Showme, Nice Bike. What I would try for the lid which appears to plastic tube is see if a straighten out wire close hanger would fit inside the tube. If it fits I would oil the wire hanger and push it through the length and buckle the ends under the small leather straps that are held by the Chicago screws. If not I would probably remove the plastic tubing and replace with a coat hanger or some other semi flexible metal and buckle the ends under the small leather straps that are held by the Chicago screws. This would also add a bit of firmness to the edge of the lid.

Hi LeatheryPalm, The small portable type machines like Sailrite, Reliable, Techsew are walking foot machines. They are good little machines that can do a good job for what they were designed for. If you are thinking of thick holster work you are going to have to move up quite a bit in machine capabilities probably to a cylinder machine which a lot of them can have a swing down table top installed so it can quickly be converted into a flatbed. kgg

Shoot, Shovel, Shutup

I agree with LatigoAmigo let it go otherwise it will eat you up inside, life is to short. However if making a pair is something that you would like to try at some point, do it by and for yourself but follow the 3 "S" rule. kgg+

The new direct drives remind me of the old singer sewing machines made for home use like some of the 15-91's that had the built in motors that were expensive and hard to replace. As Wiz and Constabulary note that the manufacturer has the control of how the machine should work and will also have control of future replacement motors. I know if I could afford the cost of one of those direct drives I would opt for something else that I had more control over of how it is ran. But I can see why they are going in that direction, manufacturing / shipping cost savings. My question is the new direct drive from Juki made in Japan or China?

I would go with the Juki line of machines particularly if you have a excellent / service dealer close to your location. However before deciding take a couple samples in and run them through to see what machine or machines will do the job plus more for the future as well see what accessories that are available like feet /binders/folders. You did mention the Juki flatbed 1508 which is a very very nice machine but don't count out the 1541S. There has been discussion on the forum and some people feel the difference in ability versus cost difference have or would have chosen the 1541S. I chose the 1541S and for what I do it is an excellent workhorse. kgg

Hi Katit, Another consideration maybe table mounting a portable machine like the Reliable Barracuda or Techsew 611 that are fairly inexpensive walking foot machines that probably would do the job for about $500 US. If you don't like it or the hobby and sell it after a year you would probably get half the purchase price back. My thoughts, kgg

Happy Birthday and may you have many more each better then the last. kgg

I would probably just go with a modern table / servo setup. I think you may run into problems with the finding a treadle table with a opening that will fit the sewing machine properly and getting the control of the treadle foot just right. The treadle foot may have a tendency to over travel with unexpected speed increase if the bottom pulley of the treadle remains connected to the large pulley wheel. My 2 cents, kgg

Hi JSLeathercraft, Thank you, I have found that people on this forum are very open and knowledgeable about everything from thread, leather techniques to machine repairs and everything in between. I hope my suggestions help you in some small way. For me a serger thread just could not standup to a litter of puppies for more then couple of hours before their little teeth would shred the serger thread and the item would have to be repaired. Ripstop edging has stopped that. I look forward to seeing what you decide on and how it works as I may be able to incorporate something into my projects. kgg