kgg

Very nicely done and a great use for those old circular saw blades. What did you use to cut out the shape of the old saw blade? kgg

A couple of questions: i) What size of thread are you using? ii) What size of needle are you using? iii) how thick of material are you trying to sew? iv) Does it happen on straight runs or when doing curves? kgg

At the max of 3 layers of 8oz the leather would be approximately 3/8" thick. i) That means if you purchase a upholstery class machine and depending on the toughness of the leather you would be at the max sewing capacity. Another factor that you did not mention is the max size of thread you want to use. If you hand sewing chances are you are using a thread larger then V138 probably closer to V415 or higher. ii) Typically upholstery class machines at max sewing capacity will handle up to V138 thread. The Juki DNU-1541 S is compound feed ( needle/ presser foot / feed dog moving the material ) ans is an upholstery class flatbed machine. Costing new about $1800 USD plus shipping. The Cowboy 3200 is a compound feed ( needle/ presser foot / feed dog moving the material) 10.5" cylinder arm Class 441 machine which is rated for up to V346 thread and up to a 1/2" thickness. Costing new about $2200 USD plus shipping. The Cobra Class 4 is a compound feed ( needle/ presser foot / feed dog moving the material) 16.5" cylinder arm machine Class 441 machine which is rated for up to V415 thread and up to a 7/8" thickness. Costing new about $2900 to $3900 USD depending on the accessory package and shipping. Another alternative would be a Class 441 that can handle V415 thread but is a manually operated one arm bandit like the Tippman Boss (~$1000 to $1200 USD), Cowboy Outlaw (~$1400 USD) or the Master Tool Cub (~$2000 USD) plus shipping. Another thing to take into account is the needle system as the class 441 machines use 794 needles while the uphosterly class machines typically use 135 x 16 needles. A rough comparison between the two needle system would be the 135 x 16 would be a 1 1/2" finishing nail versus a 794 would be similar to a 3 1/2" finishing nail meaning there is going quite a difference in the hole size in the leather. kgg

Funny thing I NEVER use sewing machine oil in any of my machines. I use a formula of synthetic motor and synthetic transmission oil. If I am flushing a old machine out I use a formula with more transmission oil to get into the bearings and remove any dirt/ etc. I find the synthetic oils lubricate surfaces much better, reduces friction and quiets a machine down particularly an old machines. A old sewing machine mechanic who worked at a factory where machines were used 24 / 7 used straight transmission oil to keep the machines cooler so they could keep up with the sewers. To answer your question an oil at your spec is similar to 5W oil at 20 C based on the chart ( https://imgur.com/DDA5MJW ) kgg

@Dwight , @Hildebrand I'm sure once things settle down @Johanna will let us know the site is up and running properly. Please keep in mind rebuilding a site after a hack can be very time consuming and we are lucky it is functioning at all. kgg

For the reasons @Wizcrafts gave the simple answer is NO. I would suggest a walking foot machine like the Juki DU 1181N. A new complete setup, machine, servo motor and table is about $1400 USD used???? I use my Juki DU-1181N to cover off the thinner stuff the Juki DNU-1541S doesn't like.

I think I would use: i) an off the shelf hollow linear shaft as they come in various outside and inside diameters. I guess a shaft with a 3/4" ( 20mm) OD and a 3/8" (10mm) ID would work. If the shaft isn't large enough add some form of a grip. These shafts are really available off places like Aliexpress and are mostly used for linear movement. An example would be ( https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005008313729816.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.7f1edY5sdY5swH&algo_pvid=da5d617e-a98c-46cd-b478-14026027a4f7&algo_exp_id=da5d617e-a98c-46cd-b478-14026027a4f7-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis!CAD!26.96!13.48!!!133.20!66.60!%402101e9a217380630172501546ef44e!12000044581316320!sea!CA!3463193163!X&curPageLogUid=rV9wvFNWFsW5&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A ) ii) 3D print a shaft with comfortable outside diameter for my hand with the correct inside diameter to accommodate the stamp. Cost would be pennies to make. Me being me I would do the 3D printed method. kgg

@Johanna that you for all the hard work that you have put into getting the site up and running. Damn Hackers there's a special place for them. kgg

Like @TomEI use HDPE to cover my work table and have some smaller cut of pieces for smaller projects. Doesn't seem to dull the knife blades as quickly, the main downside is it is very smooth and can have a tendency to slide around if not weighted down, screwed or clamped in place. However the main reason I use HDPE is to protect my butcher block table tops as blades are cheap to replace, the 1 1/2" thick butcher block isn't. kgg

That is good to know. kgg

Since you are using 3 layers of 8 oz which will be about 3/8" thick and using V207 thread you would be at or close to the max of all Class 341 machines like a Juki LS-1341 machine, brand name or clone. Since you are using a Class 441 machine, the Tippman Boss, you would have to move to a Juki TSC-441 or a clone machine. The Juki TSC-441 will set you back somewhere around $8000 USD which for most hobbyists is out of their price range versus a clone costs about $3000 USD. kgg

Which subclass 8B, 8BL, 8BV, 8BLV, 8BLH or 8BHC??? From your description a new BSC-8BL costs about $4500 USD plus shipping etc. Buddy Price???? Assuming the seller has a BSC-8BL his asking price of $3500 is about 77 percent of a new one. Depending on when he bought the machine he maybe trying to recoup closer to 100 percent of what he paid for the machine. My thought is if you really like the Seiko, which are good machines made in Japan, and it does what you want I would just go buy a new one rather then his "Buddy Price". If I'm not mistaken the Consew 277 is clone of the Seiko BSC but a lot cheaper price wise. If you think the Juki LS-1341 feels cheap you should try some of the clone machines. kgg

The Juki LU-1508NH is rated for V69 to V207 with a max knee lift of 16mm (5/8") for the presser foot . The cost of a Juki LU-1508NH is about $2600 USD ($3800 CAD) Your size of thread for those size of needles is for thread size range of V46 and V69. With those thinner size needles in thick material you run the risk of the needle buckle and breakage particularly on curves / turns. Here is a good cross reference chart for needle size vs thread size. ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) A lot will depend on how much the foam and fabric will compress down. I think a close comparison on the low end would be a Juki in the LS -1340 series of machine, a Juki LS -1341 or LS-1342 as they would cover off your needle size and maybe your thickness requirement. The cost of a Juki LS-1341 will be Plus $5000 USD whereas you can get a clone for $2000 USD and up depending on the clone you select. Basically it comes down to if you want a true Juki, how thick your pocket book is and the after sales service. Keep in mind a lot of the 1341 clones are clones of the older Juki LS-"341 " not the LS-1341 or are some hybrid version. Either way I would strongly suggest going to a dealer and testing various machines with the thread size you normally use in the max thickness of fabric / foam combination before purchasing a machine. Once you bought it, it is yours for better or worst. Buy Once Cry Once, kgg

The larger the number the thicker and stronger the thread. Thread size V69 is the cross over thread size being typically the largest thread a domestic sewing machine can handle and typically the smallest industrial sewing will handle. here is a good chart for thread size, the correct size needle and breaking strength ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ). The typical needle system for upholstery class machines which the machines you listed fall into typically take a system 135 x 16 x (needle size) for leather and 135 x 17 x (needle size) for fabric. Don't cheap out buy good needles and good thread. kgg

In my option the best flatbed for your needs would be a compound walking foot and in this class of machine a new Brand name would be the Juki DNU-1541"S." The cost in Ontario runs around the $2500 CAD. An example would be from All About Sewing ( https://www.allaboutsewingmachines.ca/products/juki-dnu-1541-s-industrial-walking-foot-industrial-sewing-machine ). Also Japan Sewing Machine & Supply Co ( (905) 764-0100 ) who sell Juki and have their own line of clones called Kobe which would be a lot less expensive then a true Juki. I have bought a few machines from them and would suggest giving them a call they are very good to deal with. As a note: i) would be more expensive to buy a Consew 206RB-5 then it would be to purchase a Japanese made true Juki DNU-1541"S". ii) Since there is no Sailrite dealer in Canada you would have to contend with the rate of exchange / duty / brokerage / shipping costs to get a Sailrite Fabricator iii) You can get the Cobra machines through Tandy Canada iv) Cowboy machine costs would be similar to the Sailrite machines as far as importing costs. kgg

What part of Canada as there are other options. How thick do you want to sew including the thickness of any multi layers? What size of thread are you wanting to use? What is your budget? You should also read the following topic. It should answer a lot of your questions. kgg

Sorry about that my computer decide to have a fit. Here is the link: https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005006355613328.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm4itemAdapt kgg

Good catch. kgg

Here is a link to a 9pcs set like @fredk referenced from Aliexpress in Canadian dollars at $5.72 for the set with free shipping. kgg

This is a topic that I done sometime ago about the different top threading methods and may help. On my class 441 I follow the method of threading the top thread of the Juki TSC-441. kgg

Yes the Sailrite Ultrafeed is a "portable" walking foot sewing machine but with the rigid carrying case the term "portable" becomes a relative term. Sort of like the old "portable" microwaves that took two people to move across the kitchen. With the machine sat in it's carrying case it turns into a very clumsy package weighting probably close to about 50lbs. Coupled that with the size of a very well constructed rigid carrying case that is about 21" long x 14" high x 10" wide and having only one top mounted carrying handle. My experience of owning the Sailrite® Ultrafeed® LSZ, with the rigid carrying case, the shine of being able to move it more then a few feet very quickly dulled. I would suggest that you makeup a cardboard box about the same size and put say 40lbs in it. Then see if you can lift it with one arm or hold it on the bottom and then walk up a flight of stairs or across a parking lot. Maybe it may fit your needs but I would suggest trying one first because once you buy it's yours for better or worst. Buy Once, Cry Once kgg

@thesoi6 Just to tack onto what @Wizcrafts has stated. I have owned a Reliable Barracuda, Kobe LSZ-1 and the Sailrite® Ultrafeed® LSZ Sailright with the their "new servo motor". The main difference would be maybe in build quality as the price varies for a new Sailrite clone from $400 to about $1400 USD plus shipping. Sailrite does have quite a good and in after sales support. These portable walking foot machines are in my opinion: i) not meant for leather work as they were designed to do sail repair work on the ocean. ii) in reality the take up thread arm isn't really meant to work consistently with V138 and you may run into needle to hook clearance problems using V138. iii) has a very small Singer class 15 bobbin can be purchased off places like Amazon, Temu, Aliexpress iv) stitch length is NOT consistent and will shorten as the thickness of the material under the presser foot increases. v) increasing the lift so to accommodate thicker material under the presser foot can be done but there can be major drawbacks and takes about an hour of fiddling around in the head. vi) the stock presser foot and feed dog are pretty rough and the original ones will leave impressions in veg tan. You can get after market smooth ones. vii) If you go with a Sailrite clone the holes for mounting edge guides and binding attachments may require the holes in the bed to be threaded as I have see that problem on a number of the Sailrite portable walking foot clones. The Consew 206rb-5, which I have owned, sells new for about $1400 plus shipping so why bother buying a " portable heavy-duty sewing machine" or " semi industrial sewing machine"? The difference between those is like trying to compare apples and oranges as both are fruit and sort of round. Don't waste your money, just get a proper industrial sewing something like the Consew 206RB-5 or a Juki DNU-1541S you will get better results. kgg

Nicely done. Recycling at it's finest. kgg

Yes I have seen it go both ways where excellant machines go for next to nothing and junkers go for almost the price of a good used machine. kgg

If you are planning on upgrading your machine keep in mind if you buy new they will typically come with a servo motor and if buying used you could buy a servo motor at that time if it has an old clutch motor installed. The only way you are going to get the speed control and punching power is with a speed reducer which will cost about $150 CAD. An off the shelf speed reducer may not still get the speed down to your liking so you probably will have to make your own. I would suggest you consider putting that money towards upgrading your machine first. The top end rpm speed isn't the main concern it is the initial startup rpm speed that you should be focused on. The brushless servo motors which have coils instead of brushes and a have a electronic control box like the Sailrite and Reliable have a typical startup speed of 500 rpm's. The servo motors that have brushes and typically just a manual speed dial mounted on the motor have a typical startup speed of about 200 rpm's. I personally like the brushed servo motors, which are becoming more uncommon, are easier to figure out / repair if there is a problem. With either style of servo motor you can get initial startup jump/jerk but a speed reducer would help smooth that out. kgg